Jump to content

heyitsrama

Member
  • Posts

    1,184
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by heyitsrama

  1. Uhhhhh so, those evap lines look like they are being pinched, if that’s the case the vapor won’t be able to escape. An electrical fan is starting to make more sense, at least you can throw a temperature timer on it... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  2. Here’s a heat shield I saw the other day, I liked the layer approach. I just noticed the use of that reflective layer under, I wonder how much that helps reflect radiant heat.
  3. Im going to be doing an install as soon as the damn eBay person ships the vintage air unit. Your best bet for the mounts is just to make them out of a thin bar of steel. At least that's what it seems that everyone else is doing.
  4. Does the car have a fuel return line? I thought allowing the gas to flow removes the opportunity for it to get heat soaked. It seems that people also run those insulated asbestos lines over the fuel rail. That should also help prevent it from soaking heat.
  5. My estimation is that a vintage air unit, will run around $1-1.1k in parts, I just ordered a gen 2 mini Evap/blower unit for $400 off eBay, gonna put it all together myself. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  6. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232817705251 Is this it?
  7. You can also tell by valance style, early 260s have a valance that’s similar to a 240, with identical turn signals, but the center portion has a slightly different mounting point. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  8. Yeah it looks super toast, the car sat for 15 years with no steering cover, I sent it out to Dave and he shipped me back a toggle switch to get me through the part search, but I really need to locate a replacement, it’s much safer for mountain roads to have hands up at the wheels. I’ve been thinking about trying to make some 3d printed replacements for this switch, I assume people have issues with theses.
  9. Sorry for the delay! I did not get a notification for a reply, it would be this switch.
  10. I ended up with a champion 2 row, I built a shroud for it, and have two electrical fans, with both of them on the temperature sits right around 185*. I use distilled water and some GE green coolant. When I go through the electrical system again, I’m going to wire in my temp-ground switch to only have 1 fan on constant, 2nd if it gets over 190* Oh I used some grommets to separate the body from the rad, I was reading that these alloy rads don’t like to flex. No issues so far. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  11. Hey if you needed one of those little knubs, I’ve made one out of a ball of super glue, it worked great ha. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  12. Hey, looking for the little switch that sits behind the turn signal for the high low beams. I need it for a early 260z, but it should be compatible with a 280/240. Regards, Rama
  13. I used JB weld to get the plastic back onto the window, then just grease it to reassemble. Make sure the regulator is all straight before you install it or it’s never gonna fit. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  14. I ended up just doing this, there are lots of little Philips bolts on flat tops that can be salvaged, as well as the screws for the choke lever. Someone local was throwing them away, worked out for my needs!
  15. You'll have to tap in the old harness into the hardware that talks to the gauge. So things things like the voltmeter/tach/speedo (gearbox driven)/Fuel/oilpressure should remain unchanged. For the stuff that talks to the ECU, if the wiring allows you, you can jump in the corresponding connectors for the AFM / injectors / etc. Edit* you might find what you're looking for by searching over on hybridz.org, they have loads of people that like to do these swaps, and might have good insight to the issue. here's links to get you started: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113801-81-l28et-swap-into-73-240z-wiring-help/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122072-l28et-swap-wiring-confusion/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67309-l28et-swap-wiring-answer/
  16. oh wow, thanks siteunseen! I actually grabbed some flat top's yesterday for free from craigslist. I was after the balance screws after one of mine apparently rattled off the car ? I had to pull one off my 3 screw, but I needed that for another car. That and the Dome Screws, hopefully they are interchangeable for the round tops, if they are at least they'll serve some purpose ?
  17. You in So-Cal? or Northern Cali? Im in SF Bay, might be able to help you out.
  18. My buddy Andy is a mechanic there, he was saying that they don’t tell parts to the public, they only sell parts to cars that they work on in the shop. Maybe that stance has changed, I’ll shoot over some time and ask.
  19. Howdy, Anyone have a compatibility list or someone that sells carburetor hardware, (screws and springs and such) for round top Su Carbs? I contacted Ztherapy, but they dont sell hardware out by itself. Been kinda scouring around online, and I cant seem to find anything... Regards, Rama
  20. Loose ground? Want to double triple check for clean connections? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  21. I paid 1 bitcoin for my n42 head >.> $70 is fair price ha. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  22. Actually the top image is not mine, just the plug style that I really liked, I have a early 260 so the fuel sender is similar to the 240. I have plenty of spades around, I’ll give it a try with the alternator plug cover. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  23. I think Banzai Motors has alternator covers that might fit, I think I have one sitting around at home, ill take a gander at that and see if it works. Hows the fit of the spade over it? does the tape do all the holding?
  24. Fuel + Spark + Compression = Fun. For the spark, harbor freight sells this inline spark plug light, Should be pretty cheap, can throw it onto cylinder 1 to ensure that its firing. Fuel can be added into the float chambers, is it possible that the line is clogged? you can attach the line from the mechanical pump into a gas jug, to test if that section is working. Compression, would probably be best to use a leak down tester, and if not a compression tester. (but you can rule this out if it was running) TBH sounds like old fuel, Did you ever take anything apart?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.