heyitsrama

Yeah I drove one of those 240sx with a welded diff, the owner really wanted to get rid of it. I was testing it around the Oakland airport loop and it's felt really sketchy, due to that locked diff. 240sx seem like a pretty nice chassis, it's a shame people just trash them as "drift" cars.

I'm not a rich guy I use standard fuel hoses against my free will.

5/16? That's what I used. I was going to order cloth fuel line for a VW bug, they have metric lines in the sizes we need, but this student budget is really killing that plan... http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

The only pieces that I can't find are the engine harness to dash harness (C1-C7) connectors and 3 prong headlight connectors...... otherwise vintage connections has a good amount. I do like this harness wrap I got for old Mercedes cars. I'll have to look for the part number. Also 3m electrical tape is worth the money. You also might want to get those cylinder gauge crimps, several are used throughout the harness.

We got sparkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk w000000000t. Bypassed the TIU and wired the points correctly. There's no idle, there is an occasional backfire in the carb? Leads me to believe issues with the timing, or not enough fuel in the system? I made sure the mechanical timing was spot on, perhaps the dizzy is 180 off?

yeah seems like it would be a good cost/performance gain. I need to figure out the wiring off the harness to make this all work.... based on It would appear that the coil gets BW(power from TIU) BL (power from ignition SW) L to tach The Distributor gets that GR/GW combo, but where does it connect on the dizzy? The points system from a 72 digram http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/72_240z_wiring.pdf shows just BW from the fusebox. then a cable from the negative to the LT on the dizzy... that seems pretty straight forward.. whats reason for the interlock relay? Its sitting within the BW connection off the TIU I think the cheap replacement oil pressure sender is not working, because im not getting readings within the cabin, i suppsose i can test by grounding it, but does that not supply information to this system? I wonder if i can just unplug the TIU, and go from negative to LT? the BW should be getting power still.. I tested the coil, i was getting 12v when i was in the ON position.

the VIN is 019xxx, i believe the cut off for old vs new is 60000? by any chance can you take some pictures of your distributor/coil setup? Im having a hard time finding stuff online that has not been modified.. I assume there is a method to bypass the TIU? I wonder if I would be able to run just a regular points setup....

I have an issue with spark on my 260z. I am keeping the transistorized ignition system in the car as of now (totally open to removing it however). I realized that i did not have the correct wires running to the distributor, That it was supposed to have a GR/GW combo going into it. I have these coming out from the TIU under the dash, BUT apparently both of my distributor units are points type..... I assume that this means that I cannot run them? is there another way to run the system? Or should i go look for a 260z distributor? (cant find any around specifically for this car with its TIU, everything is for the other on the dizzy modules)... Man 260'z have really weird wiring.

Yeah I've been looking for one. Don't really like the idea of roadkill getting blood on my oil pan.

Raybestos has a brake caliper lube that I use. I think I've done something like 4-5 cars motorcycles in total. Nice product.

Does it work with VLC software? I wonder if it works OS X/Linux. Any link for the one you got? Seems like it would be worth it for inspection under the cowl.

Yeah I was reading that when I was getting into Zs it seems like the most reliable option due to the changing in synchro tech. Can you still grab these from Nissan as remanufactured units? Perhaps Courtesy has them..

My buddy works at that garage! They do some nice work.

I think you're giving too much living space and not enough garage space. [emoji12] But really some of those project garage build threads are insane.

Do those steel developer tanks have the reels in them? I need one of those :0

Z102 have pretty good wet weather traction, my buddy just got some for his CRX and he really like them, he's spending most of his time in the mountains of SantaCruz. Nice CRX as well, has a little Jackson racing super charger, the only thing really holding it back is the transmission gearing. I think I might go buy some 15" wheels just to run the dunlops, something about the dry traction is gives, and the great tread wear really impressed me the first time. I actually don't like the current Michelins that my daily driver has. I would have got another set, but the tire/wheel combo was all off for the daily.

I still shoot 35mm, I only work with B&W CR-41 film. The color shots I send to a lab here in SF. I am looking for a development tank. They are typically black plastic, have a plastic reel inside them. My old ones reel broke. Any old rolls of film? Or those plastic organization sheets? Here some shots I got back the other day... I need to get my Z on the road so I can take more pictures with it... :/

I'm cool with 205s, my issue right now is finding a affordable, light wheel, in 15". Tire of choice is Dunlop Z102.

Errrr I made a typo there, I meant to write the choke cable,

I know we are supposed to be talking about oil caps here, my L24/L26 12/72//12//73 build dates both have elephant oil caps on them as well..... Does anyone know if the little screws that hold down the clutch cable bracket and spark plug wires, haves changed over the years? I can't find a screw that fits into the one for the clutch bracket......

I was looking at a PDF on google, it was showing 2 of them, at the minimum, post pictures of what you have, as you go, it's kinda hard to imagine it.... and I don't wanna pull mine apart! I just got it back together [emoji23][emoji23] Edit** links http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf http://www.doyouevenhoon.com/datsun-240z-gtr/how-to-rebuild-datsun-240z-headlight-switch.html

I'm looking at some from McMaster-Car, it appears they have them in 1-1/4 in which measured to be close to the hose that Im using in my car. Part number 5520k206 on https://www.mcmaster.com/#solder-joint-tube-couplings/=169agse seems to fit the correct size, but it's only rated to 200*f, the thermostat runs 185, and its technically after the radiator, so it seems that it wont see temps, that high..... Any opinion regarding this?

I think a door lock-spring should be fine... I'll have to check if there are dust covers on the ones i have in the shed. I have the measurements here: On the passenger side too, it appeared that it was rusting away, i put a little oil on it, but i dont plan to use the lock on that door much anyway. Arm Lengh : 4.5mm ID- 1mm OD - 1.1mm Height - 3mm

Howdy, I was able to successfully rekey two of my door cylinders to match the key to the ignition key. On the rear hatch however the little dust guard spring broke. I really don't want to re assemble everything until I can either find this part, or remake it. I tried local locksmiths // hardware store, but can't find anyone that has a spring that small. I can get the measurements if anyone has tiny torsion springs sitting around. Regards

Hey a fellow Z owner had their car stolen keep your eyes peeled in the Bay Area // California.