heyitsrama

Some members like AC Delco Friction Modified trans oil, but I'm unsure if it could also be applied to the diff. I don't see why not.

If the car is trashed then modify to your hearts desire, but don't be the one to tear into a perfectly good chassis. IMO. Seems like the were also trying to get the electronics sorted out. At least on my car I feel that way. Not sure about the 75', was the interlock unit kept on the efi cars?

Every time I see a dash cap it makes me sure that some of the restorations people do on their dash are well worth the time. Its a fairly clean Z, what image is showing the left frame rail?

Yeah your huge compression loss on one of the banks indicates issues. Do a leakdown test before you pull it off. Note the where the air is escaping. What does the oil look like? In the cylinders that are low does the top of the piston look clean?

I'm down to go I can offer mechanical help and photography...... Last year we snuck onto the track.... hehe was a great time. Could not afford the tickets to get in

Hey Stanley, not to thread hijack, but what do you mean by intermittent cranking? My Z was doing something stilly yesterday that I'm still thinking about where if I take the coil to the dizzy and connect them, the starter struggles to turn over. If I break that connection it spins fine.

They might have them? They still asking for a grip for the panel?

Not that I know of, your best bet is to find one in a junk yard and cut it out, there is a guy on hybrid Z who is parting out a 260z, should be the same. Some people go in and match the curvature of the panel, but then just relocate the battery into rear of the car.

Howdy, Was able to get the motor running yesterday. I set everything TDC and realized that the dizzy shaft was 180* off. It makes sense why the motor was "backfiring" through the carb, the timing was off and perhaps a valve was still open when the little spark cam through. So I dropped the oil pump (3rd time) and got the dizzy shaft installed correctly. I noticed however on the restart of the motor after that initial "start" the starter seemed to struggle to rotate everything. (Bat tested 12.25v) I only ran it for a couple of seconds (1-2 tops), turned it off to inspect for leaks // oil. I noticed that the rocker chamber was super dry, no oil dry. Which is strange because a couple weeks back I was able to get oil to the top end, through the external oil bar. So I removed the oil pump again(4th time), attempted to prime it like the second time, although on each time since its been open after the 2nd time, I always prime it. Testing was done with no spark plugs, motor spins right up. I digress, when I removed the oil pump yesterday I realized that the pump seems to be half filled in each chamber (fill//return) so I spun the dizzy shaft and kept putting oil into the fill, noticed a few bubbles in there. Perhaps that was the cause of the issue. But why would the fill be half empty? That would imply that the pump fill strainer is not getting the correct amount of oil? Does the fact that the car is on the driveway on 4 jacks stands make a difference for oil level? I would assume the strainer is still submerged. I had to stop working last night due to rain, but it's kinda concerning that the block has not been getting oil while I was testing ignition issues. I'm kinda stuck on which way I should approach the testing, especially because it was getting oil prior to the 3rd removal. I should also get the oil pressure gauge sorted out. Seems like a wiring thing. If you made it all the way down here thanks for reading all that, if not TLDR : I had oil pressure, now I don't.

Yeah I drove one of those 240sx with a welded diff, the owner really wanted to get rid of it. I was testing it around the Oakland airport loop and it's felt really sketchy, due to that locked diff. 240sx seem like a pretty nice chassis, it's a shame people just trash them as "drift" cars.

I'm not a rich guy I use standard fuel hoses against my free will.

5/16? That's what I used. I was going to order cloth fuel line for a VW bug, they have metric lines in the sizes we need, but this student budget is really killing that plan... http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/

The only pieces that I can't find are the engine harness to dash harness (C1-C7) connectors and 3 prong headlight connectors...... otherwise vintage connections has a good amount. I do like this harness wrap I got for old Mercedes cars. I'll have to look for the part number. Also 3m electrical tape is worth the money. You also might want to get those cylinder gauge crimps, several are used throughout the harness.

We got sparkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk w000000000t. Bypassed the TIU and wired the points correctly. There's no idle, there is an occasional backfire in the carb? Leads me to believe issues with the timing, or not enough fuel in the system? I made sure the mechanical timing was spot on, perhaps the dizzy is 180 off?

yeah seems like it would be a good cost/performance gain. I need to figure out the wiring off the harness to make this all work.... based on It would appear that the coil gets BW(power from TIU) BL (power from ignition SW) L to tach The Distributor gets that GR/GW combo, but where does it connect on the dizzy? The points system from a 72 digram http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/72_240z_wiring.pdf shows just BW from the fusebox. then a cable from the negative to the LT on the dizzy... that seems pretty straight forward.. whats reason for the interlock relay? Its sitting within the BW connection off the TIU I think the cheap replacement oil pressure sender is not working, because im not getting readings within the cabin, i suppsose i can test by grounding it, but does that not supply information to this system? I wonder if i can just unplug the TIU, and go from negative to LT? the BW should be getting power still.. I tested the coil, i was getting 12v when i was in the ON position.

the VIN is 019xxx, i believe the cut off for old vs new is 60000? by any chance can you take some pictures of your distributor/coil setup? Im having a hard time finding stuff online that has not been modified.. I assume there is a method to bypass the TIU? I wonder if I would be able to run just a regular points setup....

I have an issue with spark on my 260z. I am keeping the transistorized ignition system in the car as of now (totally open to removing it however). I realized that i did not have the correct wires running to the distributor, That it was supposed to have a GR/GW combo going into it. I have these coming out from the TIU under the dash, BUT apparently both of my distributor units are points type..... I assume that this means that I cannot run them? is there another way to run the system? Or should i go look for a 260z distributor? (cant find any around specifically for this car with its TIU, everything is for the other on the dizzy modules)... Man 260'z have really weird wiring.

Yeah I've been looking for one. Don't really like the idea of roadkill getting blood on my oil pan.

Raybestos has a brake caliper lube that I use. I think I've done something like 4-5 cars motorcycles in total. Nice product.

Does it work with VLC software? I wonder if it works OS X/Linux. Any link for the one you got? Seems like it would be worth it for inspection under the cowl.

Yeah I was reading that when I was getting into Zs it seems like the most reliable option due to the changing in synchro tech. Can you still grab these from Nissan as remanufactured units? Perhaps Courtesy has them..

My buddy works at that garage! They do some nice work.

I think you're giving too much living space and not enough garage space. [emoji12] But really some of those project garage build threads are insane.

Do those steel developer tanks have the reels in them? I need one of those :0