heyitsrama

I think another challenge will be trying torque the main nut, i saw someone use a open spanner on the nut, then modify an old drive shaft yoke to use a torque wrench on... might need to look for something that will fit over the splines.. or sacrifice a socket and extend it.

My parts list so far is: BK104WS (maybe without the syncros? There does not appear to be any wear on any of them no missing teeth) `32354-E9803` - Left hand thread main nut (Transmission Parts Distributors `303795L` Might be NLA from TPD emailed them), I think this can be found online from $$Nissan$$ `32236-e9500` - Counter shaft nut (Transmission Parts Distributors `303796`) Omega 71411 - Tail shaft bushing ( $27 shipping on a $17 bush ) Need to confirm both: reverse idler gear, need to confirm part number (32282)? from this diagram I'm looking at... https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-transmission-reverse-idler-gear-21t-fits-nissan-81-04-nis-10a/ reverse counter gear (32220)? https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71c-fs5w71e-fs5w71g-fs5w71h-transmission-counter-shaft-reverse-gear-fits-81-nissan-cars-trucks-nis-46/ @Dave WM @Captain Obvious I'll keep that in mind when I get the gearbox assembled back. Pinging the gearbox wizard @EuroDat 🧙‍♂️ Alright so here is the weird part... with the gearbox in the vise, when I give it a spin there is like maybe one or two spots where I can feel a bit of resistance, from a visual inspection the bearings look normal. Because only the bearings within the adapter plate are holding the shafts together I think that there can be play in the system, I can move the main/counter shafts left and right and watch them kinda deflect around. Also wierd, the main nut that is in the photo is loose, its staked down as you can see, but i can move it around. I think this is supposed to be torqued down to 101-123 ft-lbs per the FSM. Nothing is screaming at me, "I am the source of the whirring/grinding noise" that I was hearing with the clutch pedal depressed.

Hello new guy from Utah. Welcome to the party.

It’s for the HVAC controls (or the radio under the HVAC controls)

I recall seeing them on ebay for like $60+ a couple months back. I don't think Nissan (or Niles Electronics company) produces any of these parts anymore. $25 is "expensive" but they are probably made as small batches now. 🤷‍♂️

@Dave WM it’s a custom one that @Captain Obvious turned for me. A little larger than OEM. I have an OEM wood one as well, should I switch back?

I failed to take this advise last time and now I'm doing all this work over again... Thanks for the part number to reference @EuroDat This bushing certainly looks beat up, I'll order a replacement. I got the gearbox on a vise this morning, whats weird is that the bearings visually look (and from spinning the input shaft) fine, i don't notice much play in any of the bearings, all the retainers are still present between the ball bearings. Before I pulled the gearbox out, the same shifter rattle was getting louder in 3rd gear... I noticed one of the nuts was loose on the backside (still staked down though).

Rota TBT also look pretty good. Not sure if they make them in 16" though, seems like tire selection in the last couple of months has been more limited for the 15" wheels.

Another year and the Z is on stands with the gearbox out... The car drove good for a while, then recently started to make noises when the car was idling in neutral (and in gear, with little load), depressing the clutch caused it to go away. I looked around and it seems like the counter-shaft bearing is the common culprit of this issue. I was able to remove the snap ring off the input shaft but am not able to get the bellhousing separated, is there a trick to this? I'm reluctant to beat on the casing too hard, i dont want to break anything. There is a ring that goes around the OD of the bearing that can be seen in the second image, is this to be removed as well?

A photo of the gap would be helpful. Yeah you can use a voltmeter on wire that goes to the stator, yellow wire IIRC.

Not to hijack the thread but I also had a shifter rattle (that never really left)... See thread Last week I noticed that the gearbox makes clicking sounds (like a bad bearing) when the clutch is not depressed, when the clutch is depressed the noise goes away. I think I need to pull the gearbox apart for a rebuild... In your video I a can hear the vibration through your hand, it reminds me of what mine was doing before the clicking started.

Check out this book it has some interesting insights. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275245952328?epid=102900406&hash=item4015efed48:g:EKkAAOSwxidiRwqX

I’ve been using a 3core aluminum “champion” radiator from eBay. It works well, I don’t use a shroud (because I don’t have one), and am using a mechanical fan. I’m in the SF Bay Area, it’s never really too hot out here, however the car does see “track days” and has not had any overheating issues. I don’t recall any issues with mounting the radiator.

I was chasing a stupid shimmy like this a couple months back, IIRC the lug studs on my drivers side sat too far out and were not engaging properly. Pics in this thread:

Peep this thread If i recall correctly the issue with running the rear spoilers without one in the front, is that it produces lift in the front by squatting the rear down, which makes the front feel feel even more ambiguous at highway speeds. The Xenon type 1 should produces even more downforce than the BRE splitter, so you should be good pairing either one with the BRE rear spoiler. BRE sells two of the splitters, one is their `original` formula and the other is an `improved` variation, I ordered the `improved one`, drilled the holes in my hatch, and did not like how it looked, it was too large. I think the original would have been a better choice. Take @26th-Z's advice, the build quality from bre2.net was very nice, might go with the carbon fiber one next time I order.

Alright so no politics. Wasn't the lead added in the fuel to ensure that the softer valve seats would not get beat up by the valve? I recall that on the N42 head that I used in my current build, the valve seats were steel vs the e88 that has some brass/bronze material. It seems like the lead vs unleaded was accounted for in 75 when the valve seats switched over. I've not really had any regard for ethanol content since I've gotten my car running, the primary complaint I see is around rubber lines that can't handle the ethanol, but in my limited experience I've yet to see the impact. Edit* IIRC modern cars can modify the timing even further by using some type of fuel sensor that detects the ethanol content in the fuel system, but I THINK that would only be to squeeze more performance out of the system as ethanol is a more stable molecule.

Yeah that sounds about right. You put the RTV between the cover and the gasket so you can remove it all as one part when you need to service the valves. Black RTV and a black wrinkle finished cover is the correct choice. 😉

I really like watching these guys videos into motor builds... Something I can relate to, a guy in a cold garage talking to himself. https://www.youtube.com/user/Jafromobile/videos

Welcome back to the party. If you reallllly need a roof these guys make a lighter one. https://industrygarage.com/collections/ig-made/products/datsun-s30-carbon-fiber-roof

You might be able to tack on a little weld then file it down. Not sure how JB weld files down. Multiples keys for the car is super annoying. rekeying these cylinders can be done but that is also a huge pain in the arse due to how the cylinder cover is wrapped over the body.

Edit** Wrong thread

https://www.youtube.com/c/BuiltOnPurpose/videos ^ This guy makes them, he has an interesting series of content about an ITB build.

just curious is there a downside to running a pump with higher pressure and volume? I have a Melling pump sitting in my garage, I've yet to install it....

That's the lower frame rail right? https://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=10&zenid=nortjbn6oj65b81ldlkb52u5g0 This is what it should look like as it connects to the front of the firewall. Normally I would say hit it with some of this while you have it exposed... https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html But you should probably just replace it ha.