Villeman

Where is this? I want that bus! ?

In my case they popped right out...hake sure you have a flat and wide object (e.g screwdriver). Make sure to open the hazard switch over a container. After having reworked 3 I would probably just flush them with contact spray but that might be just me

+1 on the captain. by the time MS is working you will THEN track all those little evil details that will eat your next year, easily. IF you score a good deal on a 280z engine just pop it in and make the car work. Why tinker for years and then realise somethings badly wrong (has happened before, rusted out under bondo/vin problems/warped chassis etc. etc.). Considering that you will be abled to flip the engine afterwards, this might actually be cheaper than your route. Once you KNOW what works and what needs doing you can plan and tinker properly. To put into perspective, my 280z was in an ultra good condition (virtually nothing wrong) but still the engine needed boring (see, somethings always wrong) and it still took 2 years even though every piece in the car was 100% working to start with.... and you will definitely want to drive that thing WAAAY before you finish with a MS conversion

Did you rebuild the hazard switch as well? Any chance you changed the center console harness piece? Also, you can bridge the relays for now to figure out where the problem is. This should give you solid light, but homogenious ...

Thats the JDM version iirc (at least the 2/2 sign)

True, I did try with one connector and no doubt I could make it work but since i would need additional pins I would need to cut those from another harness etc. I will just try to buy the right one and keep modifying as Plan B. The harness is really pristine and without need I am rather putting it out on the market after having bought mine so there will be two good ones and not 2 modified ones ^^

Well, obviously ;) but i´d rather not butcher a perfectly good harness (i have to remake pins to ..well, pins counterparts and vice versa). I will try to buy a 75-76 harness piece somewhere first. I can always buther it later :)

checked with a N3600 harness and bridged the switch (Since mine has the other plug) and blinkers are working perfectly. So! Apparently i am in the Market for a new harness

Found the small Connection harness with c10 and c11 to be a 24023 N4700 serial with wrong pin assignment.... my car should be n3600 iirc. No 12v on the to-hazard switch side...and only ohne of the two green cables present in my cars harness

Yes, next week will be the first time i can try. I am not sure about the relays, so i bridged them so I should get permanent light in the indicators. And thats not happening. Guess I have to multimeter everything. I just wanted to rule out the taillights as a culprit first Thanks !

The turn signal switch is a 280z one, pretty sure its 76. Definitely has 3 wires. I get 12V there and switched to left and right. BUT, its not the 280z switch you disassebled but the one with a rocker and small bearing ball inside, but only ONE contact pad each side. So its an early switch. Maybe they mixed up the wiring there.... (contacts are definitely different)

That was the ONE manipulation on the whole car apparently. There is a 77 switch + connector in the car. thats why i dont spot it as an error source first. But the switch should be the same once the wires are correctly connected. Thats about the only error source left if its not the taillights causing the problem. You are sure 280z taillight don´t light brake+turnlight when using the turnsignal?

Yes, they are. But I checked the 76 and 77 wiring plans and it seems properly wired in. No idea though why they changed it. All switches in the car were perfect. Maybe they switched green and green/yellow since it became identical ^^

iirc i have 12VDC at the relay, then I bidged the relay and got 12V at the switch, but still no lights at all. Pretty sure its not "just" the flasher. Odd part, we got the relay to switch (crossed some connections) but still lights werent on. Maybe they wired the Hazard switch in wrongly.... (BE12 on 76 cars, like i said, got a 77 switch, should be the same though. Maybe not....)

Yes, thats why I assume it must be that. I had tested it before with US light, but maybe at that time the combinationswitch was still corroded. Has anybody ever made them work? I know on a 240 you have to rewire them, was hoping i could skip that part ^^