Ken Kyger

i hate you PO

I see some of the shrink wrap on a few of them was melted through a bit. To test them id replace have to cut the wrap open and i figure i may as well replace them at that point anyways. i need to pick up 6, replace them all, and start my hunt from the top again.

It actually says fusible link on it after i got a good look, it was just really dirty so i didnt notice the first time. They are 12g, but all i can find around is 14. Would that work still? At least to get the car running again. Im going to go for the maxilink upgrade, but i dont want to have to wait for all the parts to show up to confirm that that was even the problem. He used some sort of shrink wrap like connection cover, so thatll be fun to get off. If 14g is good there as well as the connection to the ecu, i will go pick up some of that and see if i cant at least get this baby started again.

Omfg. Those blue ones are the links. Ok. Were good now. So, you think I need to just replace all the links?

Did PO seriously **** me over or something? I really dont see what i should be seeing here.

Then they wrap around to meet the blue wires as shown in the pic above.

Ya, i absolutely do not have those. In my pic on the right i have a mess of red and white wires - the ones i see going into the fuse link boxes on other peoples car - that lead into a bulged out yellowish connector, then into the blue wires. On first glance i thought they may have had some sort of fuse in there, but no, just connectors. Ok, to clarify what i mean with the measurements. Im just testing voltage. Ive found some 14g links at advanced auto, but they dont list the amps they are rated for. 14g is whats on there now, I should be good right? With the key at on, i see nothing at all. No interior lights, the radio turns off - as expected - no fuel pump

Am calling around now to find a replacement for those links, but to me it doesnt make sense that its the links. If current is flowing through them, id think its a problem further down the line.

I can understand that, but if they were bad, would there still be a solid consistent 12v flowing through them? It looks like those are inline fuses of some sort?

Im not seeing any other fuses anywhere other than the fuse box by the passenger footwell, so i have no clue what happened to the #2 in the diagram.

Is my terminology wrong? Is that 2 green wire plug from the positive terminal to the ECU not a fusible link? If so, I may need to update my posts and redo some research using the correct terms

I have noticed that I am no longer getting the current from the ECU on the fuel pump relay when the key is turned to on. My fuel pump relay now has one poitive lead - battery - and three negatives. There has to be an issue from the EFI harness to the ECU, but that ECU harness is terrifying looking and i have no clue where id even start. Again, all ECU tests have been preformed on the OG ECU and a new one.

"78 280" "EFI harness links (two green ones), which would power the injectors and the ECU" thats the one. I have current moving through the wires, so I am 99% sure that the link isnt the issue. If i connect the link to the positive terminal side, i can read the 12v current on the pins on the other side of the link. 12v is making it through the link, but not to the ECU. I have seen that diagram a few times, but I actualy dont have #2 at all.

I should also note that none of the other gauges or lights in the car i normally see are working either. The only thing with power is the radio and the dome light.

Ive confirmed that the ECU harness is getting absolutely no power to any of the pins. Any common issues that would prevent the connection from the positive battery terminal to the ecu to complete? Im really scratching my head here as this one seems to have totally come out of nowhere. Where does the ECU ground come from? If thats broken, I think maybe that could case this?