CDL1542

No idea why they used three different length screws. Even if you go with three short you should be fine but the mechanism may not work. If that is the case after getting it back in, straighten out the rod going from the door lock to the mechanism and adjust the plastic nut going to the door handle and that should take care of it. Again, it's one of those things you might have to fiddle around with for a bit but once you get it set right, you shouldn't have any issues.

I just went through this and there's a few tips I could offer WITHOUT replacing the mechanism. Firstly, take off the door panels and all the interior stuff before anything. Once you have that done, disconnect the linkages to the door locks and make sure that they work (if they do you're in good shape.). Now the next thing I did involves a little guesswork at first but there are three (3) screws holding the mechanism in place. Loosen these completely until the screws are only threaded in about a half turn (meaning that if you were to back them off any more they would come off. Now try out the mechanism and door lock (you'll have to push the latch mechanism on the door in first to simulate a shut door). If they do lock, the issue is either the length of the screws you're using or the rod going from the door lock to the mechanism. This rod has a kink in it and is very soft. Over time it tends to get shorter. If you put it in a vice and straighten it out slightly it should do the trick. Once that's done, screw the three screws back in and try that out. If it doesn't work after working before, the screws are out of order (there are two short and one long) or the rod needs to be longer. It's a bit of a process and can take an hour or so but in the end they'll work well. I would recommend degreasing them and lubricating them as well!

Spindle pins are getting cut out. Biggest pain I've had to deal with on the car to date by far! Rear hub disassembly is next (hopefully!)

Hi all, Been putting in a ton of work on the 240Z and am putting coil overs in all around (front is all done!). I've hit some trouble for the first time in a while and was hoping for some help. Tips, tricks, etc on removing the spindle pins as well as how to properly disassemble the rear hub would be very helpful. I have T3 coilovers and am planning on sticking with the drums still for the rear. I already got the spindle pin lock bolts out but unfortunately could not save them in the process either. Thanks in advance! Chris

I saw this on speedhunters a while back and realized that this guy was living my dream. Awesome collection for sure!

Thanks Mike, I have a lightened flywheel on there right now too so it should be a very similar clutch setup!

Thanks a lot guys, this really helped me set some suspicions straight on how grabby/violent (not really sure the word to use here) the six puck was over the centerforce and some things I've heard on both. I'm going to go with the centerforce clutch and pack the six puck back up and either hold onto it or sell it. Thanks!

Hi guys, I recently picked up a 3.1L stroker for the Z that I'm going to swap into it in the next couple months and was hoping for an opinion on clutch choices. I actually already have two: a six puck clutch and a centerforce clutch. I got both of them with the engine and a 5 speed. I'm looking to maintain streetability through this evolution but I'm not sure which one is the best way to go and was hoping for opinions. Again, I have both of them brand new already so whichever one I don't use I'm just going to sell off anyway. Thoughts and opinions are very much appreciated! Thanks! Chris

There's about 10-12 ads of the same car in my area as well... if it seems too good to be true, it probably is

Thank you!

I've been trying to source the circled part for 240z door locks to no avail for a while via craigslist, ebay, etc for months. It's the piece that clips to the lock cylinder in the door and connects to the linkage rod. The ones I have (being soft metal) are completely shot and allow the cylinder to rotate without locking to door. I really need a passenger side one more than anything and figured I'd reach out and see if anyone has one laying around that's in good shape and not too worn (or knows where to get a new one). Any and all leads are very much appreciated! Chris

I had a similar issue and figured out that I had to adjust the switch. Not terribly hard but you might want to throw a couple bucks at it and get a new one just to be safe. Makes life a lot simpler. The adjustment is the hard part of it.

I have front and rear bumpers from futofab and aside from being great products, the shipping rate was pretty low and they arrived very quickly.

I did my research on TEP before picking up strut bars and read nothing good about them. Techno Toy Tuning has some nice rear ones if you like the TEP design. I picked up a set from a Z owner who is very passionate about Zcars and makes and sells his own. He offered a few different options and goes by theramz on some of the forums. He sells a lot of his strut bars via ebay and they were worth every penny: http://www.ebay.com/itm/240Z-260Z-280Z-Front-and-Rear-Strut-Bar-Set-Show-Car-/201341305476?vxp=mtr I went with his "show car" set with Z emblems. The pictures are awful cell phone pictures but they're really well done.