CDL1542

I will give this a shot and report back on it this evening. Does this eliminate a condenser as well? I noticed that siteunseen was running one. If I still need one, what rating should it be?

Seems like a very logical way to do it. I will try it and post back later this week on how it goes. I appreciate the help.

The pedal built up pressure as I bled the brakes and fluid and air came out. When the bubbles stopped, I closed it off and removed the bleed hose. I'm going to bleed them once more starting with the MC and if that doesn't do it, I think it would be safe to assume that the MC is shot. It was a 15/16 master cylinder from a 280ZX that was rebuilt

Yes, the car is running but the tach doesn't move at all. The tach did work prior to the zx distributor. What year is your Z? I don't have a brown wire in mine. What benefit does the condenser offer you over not running one? I have not seen someone use this with an upgraded distributor.

Hi, I have read through and followed the http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html instructions numerous times for upgrading the distributor to a 280zx on a 240z and have not been able to get my tach to work at all. I have a 3 ohm coil, 280zx distributor and the car is an 11/70 240z (note that the majority of the instructions are for a 280z). I have spliced the blue/white and the green/white wires together from the harness. The thick black/white tach wire is to the postitive side of the coil and the black wire is to the negative. The black wire from the harness is to the distributor box and there is a new wire going from the positive end of the coil to the distributor box as well. Pictures attached so you can see what I did. What happens to the orange(yellow?) lead from the harness? Did I miss something or can someone weigh in on why my tach isn't working?

You do have a good point about them both being engaged by the thermo switch but my thought process was if the sensor became an issue that I would still have at least one working fan. Now that I think about it more, I think that I'm just going to wire both of them to the switch and not worry about it so much.

For future use. If anyone is attempting to replicate this, I drew up a diagram to clarify some things not mentioned in other posts and attached it for your convenience.

Zed Head, Pumping the pedal during the bleeding process I did build up pressure, however once the system was fully bled and closed off I did not. Even pumping the pedal at this point did not build up pressure. Oddly enough, no leaks developed which is what I thought the issue might have been. I will go ahead and re-bleed the master cylinder and go through the process again, but I am not sure what could be the cause of this. Chris

Been a while since I updated this. I got in the shop and took your advice and started with the Left Rear after bleeding the master again. I successfully bled all four corners without issue and firm pedal pressure throughout, but now have no pressure at the pedal. Any thoughts?

I mounted the temp sensor in the block drain plug that is on the drivers side below the exhaust manifold and near to the firewall. I believe they are all in the same position for all of the different block types. I needed to get an adapter to adapt the threads of the sensor to the threads of the drain plug, but that was pretty simple. Mike, Thank you very much. I've done quite a bit of research and while setups, diagrams and the like are widely available, this seemed to be a detail that was left out. This makes sense to me and I think I'll go ahead and follow this for the location of the sensor. I'm thinking that one of the two fans should be wired to go on once the car starts and the other should kick on via the sensor which is easy enough to do. Thanks again!

Hi Everyone, I'm installing dual electric fans in my Z shortly and was wondering where the majority of people put their thermo switches. To my understanding I would want this to be the engine temperature and not the coolant temperature via the radiator bung. Does anyone have any suggestions or input? Thanks! Chris

To answer a few quick comments, I meant to say start with the rear right and did start with a fully bled MC. I do have speed bleeders on all four corners as well so that air doesn't get pulled back in as well as using a one man bleeding system. I'm going to give some ideas a shot in a couple hours and post back later tonight and see how it goes.

I was trying to be methodical with it and "do it right the first time". I upgraded the front brakes to 4 piston calipers and have used one way bleed screws in addition to a one man bleeder for a while and was using that method. I will give it a shot tonight and see what happens. Once the fronts are done (hopefully) do you think that would help with the rears? Also, if I'm unable to build pressure in the front, would that indicate a broken seal in the MC?

The pedal never pumps up which I thought was odd. I'm not too sure how I should go about remedying this issue. Any recommendations?

Hi all, Had a setback recently with brakes. I have installed: new hoses, hard lines at the drumps, pads, rotors, calipers, rebuilt the drums, and a new master cylinder. I have bled brakes before and as usual started with the furthest from the master cylinder (start with the rear left, then rear right, front right, front left). My issue is starting with the rear right, I'm not getting any fluid to pump from the master cylinder to the bleeder. Even when completely disconnected this doesn't work. I am assuming that I have a blockage in the hard lines and wanted some advice on clearing it. I am using the old school method of pumping the pedal and want to know if investing in a pressure bleeder might work or if I'm missing something altogether. I DID bleed the master cylinder without issue. Chris

Did it the old fashioned way with a multimeter and wound up with a choice of either the black/white OR green wire so I went with the thicker of the two and hooked it up to my relay. Fuel pump works fantastically. My only complaint is that it's a bit loud...

Hi, 11/70 Z converting from a mechanical to a electric fuel pump for my stroker with triple carbs. I have a couple questions on the wiring that I was looking to get some help with. I've consulted various different builds, threads and diagrams and am planning on wiring in a Holley Red Electric fuel pump. I have grounded the wire and the positive side will be going to a relay (which I have figured out already). My questions are firstly: Should I want the fuel pump to turn on when the key is in the ON position or the START position (Will it still be on if in the start position)? My second question is: Of the Wires going to the ignition switch, which one of these would be the correct one for the ON or START position respectively. I have looked at a handful of wiring diagrams and none of them specify which wire is which. Thank you! Chris

Any suggestions on spark plug wires or is there an ideal size/type for strokers ?

I went ahead and ordered a new slave cylinder and a SS braided hose while I was at it.

Thanks for the link!! It is a series one car, so that does not surprise me. I think I'll forego the attempted headache at a $12 price tag and replace the hose while I'm at it. Thanks for the tip on cleaning it too, never would have thought about it. The adjustable push-rod version is from the 240Z series I up to around August 71. Drilling the clutch folk for the adjusctable push-rod will be challenging, specially if its in the car. You will also need to drill is oversize to allow movement. It works like a fulcrum. Drilling it out to 1mm bigger than the push-rod will probably make it bind up. Thanks!

Well I gave that a shot too and I dulled 4 bits in the process.... barely scratched the surface of it. The clutch slave does have an adjustable nut on it if there's a slight difference. Maybe I should get a decent bit and give it a shot.

Thanks for the reply. I have a newer fork in there already so I am guessing that means I need a new slave cylinder.... would really like a second opinion before I spend some money and do all the work if anyone knows!

Hi all, I've been really cranking away at my Z (11/70) and put my stroker in as well as the new 5 speed. My issue is fitting the old clutch cylinder to the new clutch fork. On my old 4 speed transmission the fork had a hole in it for the threaded rod to go through and I could compress the clutch fully. However on the new one, this hole does not exist and I can't compress the rod fully to bolt the clutch to the new transmission. Really hoping for some suggestions on this and thanks in advance for the help. Chris

That is some very nice work! I'd love to see some pictures of the restoration in progress.

Been a while since I've given any update but progress is updated regularly here if you want to check anything out. I decided to go with an auxiliary fuse box and am really thrilled with how easy it is and how simple it will be to add anything from this point forward : https://www.instagram.com/allaboutthez/ Here's the latest! Wipers, dome light, map light, horn, antenna, radio, (and a clock shortly) are all working! Going to swap the engine in a couple weeks.