tdcrenshaw

For anyone who stumbles across this thread in the future, I fixed my problem by replacing the injectors and fuel pressure regulator. Thinking back to one of the first times I checked the car out before buying it, I recalled the previous owner telling me someone had installed bigger injectors, but not to worry, it ran fine on them (damn those PO's!). Pulled the injectors to try to find a part # and was unable to find any info on them online, so I decided to just bite the bullet and buy new injectors from rock auto. Figured while I had the fuel rail off I'd install a new FPR as well. She started right off the bat and sounds and runs a billion time better than before! My idle is a little high and my timing is slightly off, but I'm waiting until I get my tach reinstalled before I tackle those issues Edit: for future reference, I picked up these Standard T-Series Injectors with o-rings, part # FJ707T for ~$28 a piece

I've had it for about 2 weeks now and while it's not running now, I'm taking the afternoon off tomorrow to try to get it up to speed. I bought it from a UA student off craigslist so I don't think it was your friend Janie's car. Any idea if the junkyards around here have any Z cars laying around? There are a few random interior pieces I need that I don't feel like shelling out the cash to buy new.

It's good to know my fuel pressure is ok. I think in my haste to check it I only scanned the relevant section of the FSM, saw 36 psi listed, then assumed something was wrong when I only saw ~32psi I checked the idle throttle switch and full throttle switch at the ECU, both tested ok. I also pulled the cover off the TPS and visually checked it while moving the throttle linkage. I haven't checked the timing with a timing light, but I have twisted the distributor cap back and forth. It runs best right in the middle, though it could be so far off twisting the distributor doesn't help.

I have checked the TPS and it does move from contact to contact. I definitely do need to clean all the contacts and grounds and I'll check the air filter. Those tech tips are definitely a great resource! That's where I got the idea to finger the AFM haha. I'm confident I'll get it up and running soon!

I have checked the TPS and it does move from contact to contact. I definitely do need to clean all the contacts and grounds and I'll check the air filter. Those tech tips are definitely a great resource! That's where I got the idea to finger the AFM haha. I'm confident I'll get it up and running soon!

Hey!! I'm also in ttown with a '77 280z! Here's my thread on trying to get it running http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/53386-1977-280z-running-rich-troubleshooting-help.html Tuscaloosa Z car meetup?

Hey guys (and gals), I'm the new proud owner of a 1977 280z. I don't know a ton about cars, but I'm mechanically handy and I have downloaded and read through the FSM and the FIB for the car. When I first got the car, it had been sitting for a year and wouldn't run at all. After replacing the fuel pump, it starts and runs, but very very rich. It fouls all 6 spark plugs in short order and idles very rough, occasionally dying. I first suspected the CSV, so I disconnected it with no success, though the engine still started fine so I have left it disconncted. Then I pulled the CSV to see if it was leaking fuel, but it was fine as well. Next I checked the water temperature sensor and air temperature sensor, which reported 2520 ohms and 2260 ohms at the ECU in around 68 degree weather. Finally, I ran through most of the ECU checks in the Fuel Injection Bible and while the air regulator circuit failed, it would result in an overly lean fuel air mixture, right? I rented a fuel pressure gauge, at idle between the fuel filter and the rail it was around 32 PSI, which I know is slightly low. Since it's a new fuel pump, this makes me think that the fuel pressure regulator is suspect. Would a messed up FPR cause a low fuel pressure and make the car run rich? I checked the fuel return line to the tank by blowing in it and after momentary resistance, I could blow through. I also put the fuel pressure gauge between the rail and the fuel return line. There it indicated no pressure. I then pulled the line while the engine was running and very little to no fuel was being returned at idle. I pulled the cover off the AFM, all the contacts look good, the flap moves freely, and the glue blobs all appear untampered with. At idle, the flap moves about 1cm back, though if I finger it to the lean side, the car runs much smoother. I've considered tweaking it a few teeth toward the lean side, but I would rather get to the root of the problem. A few other things I've tried: adjusting the idle screw with no real change, pulled the oil cap while idling and felt vacuum resistance plus it ran worse, visually inspected all vacuum lines and tightened hose clamps, and examined the electrical connections. I'm sure I've tried a few other things and forgotten to write them down, but please suggest any boneheaded thing I may have missed. I feel like my problem is with the FPR, but most of the threads I've read on it say your car will run leaner when the FPR fails. I've also considered replacing my water temp sensor even though it tested fine at room temperature since it seems to be a likely candidate. I know I probably need to check my vacuum pressure next, but I wanted to consult the gurus here before I spend any more money.