motivealloy

Pertronix would be nice but this is my son's project and he don't have much money to spend being an student. We have Bosch Rotor and Cap. I have a dwell meter but just didn't think to hook it up. Doh ;(

Hey gang, Wanted to share this story. It's a great FYI. And it's not mentioned anywhere to check as a possible failure. We have been battling a crazy distributor problem for the past month. First the 240z began to slowly run horrible to the point where it just wouldn't stay running after starting. After about a week of troubleshooting, checking compression (124-128psi), checking valves (a tiny bit out), Checking timing (dead on), Checking for water in the gas (nope), replacing the coil, and lots of cussing nothing. One thing we didn't check was the points... hmm, why should we they were replaced only a month earlier. They look fine. Might as well check with the feeler gauge. HOLY CRAP! The points had walked open to almost a 1/16" inch! The set screw is still tight. What the hell? So I'm thinking that the tiny washer some how shifted position and caused the points to widen the gap. i placed a thin wide washer under the set screw to get even pressure on the plate. Fires right up! Runs perfect. Yay, sigh of relief. Then, a week later my son is driving and the 240 and it just dies for no reason. Cranks over strong but just won't start. Tow it home and send the 240 to the corner for being bad. Crap, maybe the points or distributor went wrong again. I check the point gap and it's perfect. All the leads are good. Dist is grounding properly. Shaft is fine, Cap is fine, rotor is fine. What is going on. stupid car... Then I notice when I open and close the points they stick open. Are you freaking kidding me! The brand new points just stick wide open. Ugh... So we squirted some silicon at the pivot and all is fixed now. Runs like a champ again. OMG, this is the most frustrating and troublesome set of points I have ever had on any car! Needless to say we are replacing these aftermarket points with OEM Nissan. Lesson learned. ;(

Did anyone end up going? We had a family issue crop up an couldn't make it.

I've never seen Simple green remove paint before but it will etch polished aluminium if left on too long.

Hey Peter, Yes that is correct. Just look for Nikki fuel pump on ebay. The Nikki fuel pump from an F-10, 610, 710, 620, 510, 210, B210, 310, 240Z, 260Z all use the same fuel pump internal parts. The easiest way to tell if it has a dual diaphragm is the little tab of rubber that sticks out the side of the pump will have a tiny staple in it. You can see it in the photos i posted. The rubber gaskets shouldn't be dry as it's been sitting on a shelf.

Thanks for the link, but those aren't the correct shape. I'm looking for original shape with the curved edges.

Hey gang, as the title says i'm in need of 1 one rear bumper bracket for a 1970 240z. Send me a line if you have one you want to part with at a reasonable price. Our's was missing when we purchased our project car. Checked ebay and nothing is available there except the incorrect SS version. Thanks!!

why are there no corner marshals?

Read through this thread for some ideas... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40025-280z-5-speed-in-an-early-240z-console-cutting/ With our swap the tunnel was cut and we just used a shift lever from a 1971 Z car as it has a nice "S" curve to it.

There's an extensive thread about KIA weatherstrip here... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/34633-kia-sportage-weatherstip-rocks/

Check your HT leads (spark plug wires). If you pull off one lead at a time while the engine is at idle and just hold it near the spark plug you will hear if the RPM will drop or stay the same. If you get a jolt when doing this then your HT lead has a break in the shielding and is intermittently grounding to the engine block causing your engine stumble.

Read this page, it might help you with your identification... http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageTransmission.htm

You can renew the brass terminals and slide fittings by soaking them in CLR for a few minutes. It brightens 'em right up. Rinse with clean water. I just wrapped the lead ends by folding electrical tape over onto itself.

In the diagram Blue posted you are adjusting the #14 balance screw correct? The screw's only function is to make the front and rear carbs open at the same time. It is an adjustable link between the front and rear throttle plates (internal butterfly valves) so they open in unison (at the same time). You back this screw off a few turns to remove any possible preloading and because after you re-tune the carbs they might not sync in the same position as before. When you screw in this screw too far you are preloading (opening) one throttle plate way before the other. This is why the RPMs went up on that carb. The screw is only supposed to touch the linkage balance plate with the lightest of pressure, or till there isn't any slop in the throttle shaft linkage. You can test for slop when you push down on the throttle shaft #11 in the diagram. Check to see that the screw and plate move at the same time. Remember the end of the screw only needs to be touching the linkage plate. (screw> []=== * | <plate) *with gap (slop), (screw> []===| <plate) no gap. Hope this makes sense.

>>3. rotate both idle mixture knob until it seat counterclockwise You want to screw the Jet adjust wheel #1 up toward the carb body #4 on diagram. When they hit bottom of the carb body #4 rotate back down toward #7. Make two full turns 360deg x 2. >>5. Crank the engine with the choke on for 3 minutes until it warms up Nope, you want to drive around for about 15min prior to adjusting anything to make sure the carbs and engine are warm. >>8. set the rear and front carburetor at 800 RPM using the idle screw on each carburetor and measure with the unysis that the ball is raising to the middle in both carbs. Ditch the unisys ball thing and get an "STE Synchrometer" flow meter gauge. You can leave it in the venturi without blocking air flow. Mine reads about 9.5 on front and back carbs. Use an external tach meter so you can watch the RPMs from your engine bay. Turn the Jet adjust wheel #1 down in 1/4 turn increments till you get the front and back balanced. >>9. How do i dial in the balance mixture screw and when? This is very last. You just want the screw touching the plate so that both throttle plates open in unison.

Make sure your vacuum advance is working properly. If it's leaking or not hooked up you will never get your SU set-up right. TIP: Take of the dizzy cover and suck on the end of the tube to see if the mechanism moves. If it does then suck and hold suction for at least 10 seconds. If it doesn't more back until you let suction off then your diaphragm is fine. If the mech begins to creep back to resting point then you have a vac leak. Also, check that the vacuum port on the SU isn't obstructed. You can blow into the tube and should hear the air entering. I always perform this test using brand new vacuum hose. (You won't get a mouth full of gas fumes that way!) Dave's MG SU Video's are great!!

hey thanks guys here are some quick replys: Cliff, Just look up "Nikki Fuel pump" on ebay. A ton will pop up. Just look for the right one at the cheapest price. Darrel, That website has the rebuild kit but after shipping fees are tacked on for Canada to US that $30 kit jumps into the $50+ range.

...part 2 cont. Inside the top of the casting. Notice that the 240Z casting has a little "SD" icon cast into it where as the F-10 pump lacks this detail. Identical casting otherwise. Here is how you swap the lower oil seal. Just fit a thin flat blade screw driver under the lip and pry up. TIP: Make sure to place a rag over the top when you do this as the pressure fit retainer clip will shoot out a few feet from where you are working. You can see that the retainer is already removed from the pump on the right. Oil seal comparison. Our old one on the left was torn and becoming brittle. Swap out the oil seals and replace the retainer by taking a socket about the same size a the inside of the retainer and tap it back in with a hammer. It might take a few times as the retainer wants to slip around. I had a helper when I did this operation. Line up the peen marks if possible. Install the diaphragm opposite how you took the old one out. You install the end of the rod diagonally so it can fit under the actuator arm. You may need to move the actuator arm down to allow the rod end to clear. It should pop into place. Install the pump back onto the engine block at this point. It's way easier this way trust me. Reassemble the upper casting using the bright new screws, top cover plate, and gasket from the new pump. Then screw the rebuilt fuel transfer housing onto the diaphragm base using the rest of the bright new screws. Reattach hoses and such. TIP: I did swap out the fuel inlet tube as the original one was much shorter and had a thinner OD tube diameter than the one from the F-10 pump. You may need to temporarily bolt the fuel transfer housing to the engine block to get enough torque to unscrew the inlet tube. These have tapered threads so they will seal against fuel leakage. No need to use plumbers tape or any sealer. The more you screw on the threads the tighter it will get. Crank up the engine and look for any leaks. All in all this took us about an hour to do and only cost me about $30.00. How awesome it that!!

Hey gang, I am going to share with you what I've done to rebuild a 240z fuel pump with great success. This is also (for the time being) an inexpensive solution to rebuilding an original Nikki 240-260Z mechanical fuel pump. What I have learned so far is; rebuild kits for our old fuel pumps have not been available in American for some time now. They are available in Australia and maybe Canada but importing them here isn't cost effective. Original NOS 240Z Nikki fuel pumps are extremely expensive, and the aftermarket fuel pumps look like crap. There are electric fuel pumps available cheap but they require wiring and fuel pressure regulators and I think they are unsightly. My background is in international manufacturing. The one thing i know about intl mfg is that a lot of parts suppliers HATE making 10 or 15 versions of the same damn part. So what they implement is, what is called in the manufacturing industry as, "part uniformity" or "part sharing". The term is exactly as it implies. Multiple similar items will share some of the same basic parts. This cuts down on overburdening the manufacturing process. It is far more cost effective and easier to pump out 100,000 of the same part than 1000 each of 100 slightly different versions of the same part. Japan is notorious for using this philosophy in it's auto industry. It was only about 10 years ago that US auto makers adopted part uniformity in their assembly lines. Okay, with that being said I began to do a little research on our Nikki fuel pumps. And voila, exactly as i suspected!! Nikki used the same exact castings and rubber gaskets in it's fuel pumps it supplied for many models of Datsun autos. What am I getting at with this primer you may ask? Simple, Nikki fuel pump parts from different cars are swappable. Here is a photo of an NOS 240Z Nikki fuel pump. They cost about $175 to $225 for an NOS example. Here is a Nikki fuel pump for a Datsun F-10 wagon next to our original "leaking" Nikki fuel pump. These cost about $25 to $60 for an NOS example. Notice that the F-10 and 240Z fuel pumps both have 271070 part numbers cast in the side. This number signifies the type of internal mechanism and components of the fuel pump. It is NOT the part number for a 240Z fuel pump as I have read elsewhere. A Nikki fuel pump from an F-10, 610, 710, 620, 510, 210, B210, 310, 240Z, 260Z all use the same fuel pump internal parts. Only difference between the pumps is the lower body casting (240z has three bolts to secure to engine the other only has two), actuator lever shape and size, and the fuel inlet location. The upper castings are the same on both fuel pumps. Except for where the fuel lines are tapped. TIP: Make sure to have a complete complement of flat blade screwdrivers handy. I used at least three different thickness of blades dismantling the fuel pump. Loosen all of the screws on the fuel pump while the fuel pump is bolted to the engine. This allows you to get much more torque on those stubborn screws. AVOID using a Philips head at all cost. They tend to strip out the screw heads very easily. The main fuel diaphragms are similar in construction. The newer one on the right is a better design. It has two membranes sandwiched together instead of one thick one like our original had. And the spring retainer cup holds the pump spring more secure. Notice that the tab that fits under the actuator arm is not the slotted style like what you would find on a rebuild kit. You will have to remove the fuel pump from the engine block to wiggle the diaphragm out. It's fairly easy. Just push down and slide the diaphragm housing away from the actuator lever. Dual diaphragm design. Upper casting with same internal fuel valves. New one is on the left. I didn't swap these parts out as the screws were stuck and I didn't want to damage anything. Also, the valves were in great shape so really no need to swap them. cont...

Montana Z, if the bumper is tight at the ends that mount to the outside body you might have either a bent bumper or your body panels are bowed out in the front due to unseen damage. I'm leaning more toward bent bumper. Our bumper had at least 1/2" gap on either end when we installed it. The bolts helped snug everything up. Don't forget to add a rubber washer on the bumper tab that the bolt screws into. Everyone tends to forget this piece of rubber.

$2.55 in Austin TX as of yesterday at my 76 station.

Quick and embarrassing update! Was going to run some errands this morning in the Z as it's running really good now. I'm half way to the post office and I run out of gas. What?! the gauge shows a quarter tank. DOH! I guess quarter tank is now the "Empty" zone. Luckily I ran out of gas right in front if a Chevron. Whew! Filled up the tank and it took forever for the fuel to get pumped up to the carbs while I was cranking. I'm guessing there may or may not be a fuel gauge level adjuster on the back of the dash gauge. I'll search the forums.

Butt welding is best for patch panels like what you are describing. Structural adhesive bonding is actually much stronger and consistent than spot welds, but it should only be used on fresh clean metal. A lot of high-end luxury cars glue panels together these days.

Yup, that is the lovely dark blue paint that was covered by the black plasti-dip. That stuff is annoying to remove from the car. This weekend Robert and I did a lot of little maintenance items to the Z. Topped up the radiator fluid. The radiator doesn't seem to be leaking any longer from the pin hole leak I noticed earlier in the month. We are still going to replace it with a champion rad even though it's holding fluid. Now that the rad has proper coolant level the temp gauge is hovering between T and E now instead of over by P. Very happy to see this. I was afraid the thermometer was going bad - turns out it was just low on coolant. Topped up the engine oil. We have a slow leak from the oil pan gasket. Not a major deal but we want to button that up one of these days. Replaced ALL of the fuel hoses in the engine compartment with new rubber. The hoses that were on the engine were full of cracks The fuel filter doesn't need to be changed yet. One thing I did do was remove two inline fuel filters from between the fuel rail and the SU's. Not sure why the PO added these. It seems like they were messing with the fuel pressure from the pump to the carbs. Carbs run a little smoother after I took 'em off. Went through and cleaned all of the electrical connections to the distributer with "Lime-a-way" in the spray bottle. this stuff is great at taking all that brown oxidation off of electrical leads. It has a mild cleaner in it so it also helps clean away gunk from the wire ends. Once you have bright metal again just rinse with clean water. Re-positioned the hood and hood latch. Our hood sits a bit wonky cos it was hit at one time and our right front frame rail is pushed in about 1/4 to 5/8 inch. This hood was replaced at some point in it's life. I noticed that it has the hallmarks of a 73 and later hood. Oh well, It will probably be impossible to find an early 1970 hood in decent shape and at a good price. Robert replaced the interior map light with a good used one and reattached some of the AC heater controls back together. Yay, levers work and the fan control knob is solid. Buttoned up the interior panels with new clips from Pep-boys. They are Toyota/Nissan panel clips. Just have to trim a bit of plastic off for them to fit, but they look and work great. I cleaned up the electrical connectors that attach to the gas tank sending unit. OMG, what a cruel joke to put those rubber caps over the blade connectors. I ended up just cutting them off as they were hard as rock. Did the same lime-a-way clean up and what a difference. We can consistently tell how much gas we have in the tank now. I wrapped the connector ends with electrical tape so that they wouldn't get covered in road gunk. Well, that was our weekend fun. I think we did a few more little things but I can't remember at this point. I'm ready for some thanksgiving left overs.