dutchzcarguy

Yes.. sorry @Zed Head I'm a bit lazy these days.. don't read it all.. most important is he nows now what to do.. i hope.. 🙊

Psst ..😉 I had 2! with t-bar and now i have one without.. Don't tell anyone but.. the non t-bar car is much better.. they don't nearly flex as much.. Also the t-bar needs much more new windscreens as they brake in the middle from top to bottom.. i wonder why? ( Answer:from flexing to much! 🙊)

Fantastic work indeed, I would only recommend to clean the lacquer under those screws because now you only have ground through the screw.. one day the screw gets rusty and problems will start. You clean the spot just under the contact lip and screw it on, then you put a little of lacquer over the screw. That's the best contact! It looks very good but it's a bad connection this way..

Btw.. Is your car a t-bar? or a non t-bar zx?

Eèèhhmm.. A 280z and a 280zx are completely different.. A 280z has a rubber all around the windshield like a 240z has.. A 280zx windshield glass is glued to the car.. It's much modern way to place the glass, it's part of the construction now. In picture BF694B You see the things you need.. As these parts are no longer available you can use the today's much better sealant. What you need to save from the old window are the parts i send you a picture of in #5 .. They hold the chrome strips on theire place. If they are broken too you can use some sealant there as well but when you need to replace such windshield it's a pain in the **** to replace..

Good one Site! Didn't know that title but the number i know very well, i listened till the end! Much better than all the sh*t they (almost everyone else) are making lately hahaha...

I see this a bit late.. but i have done this without destroying anything.. i believe.. See my restore of a 1979 280zx2+2 slick roof.. and yes you start in the doors removing stuff to remove the front glass trim.. Don't forget these parts you need for the new glass... see comment 100 on above mentioned topic.

Hihi.. What does one say when you want the car to continue? Engage? (Captain Picard!) 🤣

Hihi.. I would like to see that one to! Hihi.. i don't remember i ever have seen one. A 240z has a fuelfilter under the hood.. that's it.. Other (later) s30 and s130 have a electric pump and a filter in the rear (and a puls dampener for the electric fuelpump.) For as far i know..

Nice opportunity! Could you talk to the car and tell him the adress where you wanted to go or? It remembers me of a cardealer that had a show and he was looking for someone that could drive the new (then) Honda accord, He said he was looking for someone to drive the powerfull car and he knew me as a zx driver.. We took off, him in the passengerseat.. At one point we came to a trafficlight with a few cars already waiting for green, As i approached fast i took a swing on the steeringwheel and went for the right turn lane and he thought i would hit the waiting cars! He Braked like hell on a empty floor Hahaha.. And i said in a calm tone: It isn't easy to brake without a pedal, while i turned to the right taking the car onto the highway! That was FUN! I didn't buy the car but we had a nice ride!

I had the same thoughts when i needed to do my 280zx chrome strips.. (I'm not gonna polish them on a bench polisher.. i already saw the parts fly around in my mind) You could "glue them temporary to a piece of wood with some (small "blobs") silicone, wait a day or 3 and polish the hell out of them.. then take a wire and get them off the wood and clean out the silicone on a clean towel.

The older half shafts have a little screw inbetween were you can put a little nipple to grease them. then put the little screw back. If they have play it will soon get more.. replacing the needle bearings in a halfshaft takes a lot of your patience i learnt..haha..pffff... use lot of grease to hold them in place.

I always have to watch out that my 240z is not going over the 6500rpm's! it wants to go over 7K! And yes the carbs should be around 2,5 turns out. Also check for air leaks and do a ignition timing check.

They were for tying the cars down and the dealers were supposed to take them off before delivery to the customer, but as they were a bit lazy.. they were left on.

Ah, Thanks! We call the number 30 contact (were the signal go's in the switch the P-contact.) Also the common. 30

YES! That circuitry is what we electronic guys call the famous flipflop.. You have to experiment with resistors and capacitors and make one resistor a potentiometer (and a small resistor in series) to make a variable timer.. I believe you guys call it a bread to test on? You can make all kinds of electronic circuits on a testbread. I took a short look at the circuit and in that one you can change one of the LED's for a relay of 6 or 12 V that switches between 2 contacts (My translator says change over contact but that's not a very good translation..) Tutorial 1: Building a Circuit on Breadboard for Beginners in Electronics (startingelectronics.org) In the 2 contact outputs of the relais you put on one of them a high power variable resistor ( as a potmeter but high power=expensive..) for the lower amp's Hope you get it hihi.. It's a nice way to study a bit of electronics making your own circuitry, if your not really interested, i think it's to difficult for someone that never worked with small electronic stuff..

With a "flip-flop" circuit you can find on the internet you can make a 1-100 sec flipflop (Pot-meter on it) and a relais that switches on command of the flipflop circuit and the relais switsches a resistor into your passifying circuit on and off.. Now you have 2 diff. currents going to your parts.. The resistor inline with your parts need to be a power potentiometer that can handle the currents.

I felt addressed there hahaha.. my nickname could be Overfastener Mart haha.. 🙊 (I used to overfasten.. not anymore.. use torquewrenches!) Mart (short for Martin)

Already $3200 and 6 days to go! (I keep my Hitachi's for sure! 😉 )

I think all the injectors have a resistor inline. They are normally in the corner of the engineroom on a aluminum cooling block/frame. I wondered always why there are 6 transistors to open the 6 injectors.. they all open together at ones.. at least the non turbo's do.. They all inject at the same time independant of when theire cylinder needs the gas.. Also.. normally you can NOT put 12 volt on a injector, it will get damaged direct on a car battery. You CAN test them with a little 9 volt battery you find in those firedetectors and remotes or so. They don't have the current to hurt the injector, just give the injector a pulse with the 9v battery, if you ever need to test one. (Put also some carbcleaner in the injector when you do!) Btw.. did you test in the video without injector-resistors ?? I would think that's lethal to the injectors!

Hi Dave, Nice to see these ECU's opened up.. I did last year a Non turbo.. they are completely different.. I would mot worry to much about the capacitors.. yes maybe the electrolite ones there are a few but the parts nissan used in these ecu's are high standard. I understand that the problem you have is that it will not rev above 2000 rpm's ?? Maybe the ecu get's foulty signals and want's to protect the engine.. As an electrical engineer i think it's not your ecu that's the problem. You should check the signals it's getting from the engine.. If the other "new"ecu is from another 20e (turbo?) then it could work also it's just that there may be some differences in rpm points were the 2,8 ltr go's not or even further with injecting etc etc.. Btw, nice test stand! Mart.

I bought some OEM ones in 1994.. They stayed in the "warehouse" till 2000 and used them on my 240z. After about 20 years so around 2020 one of the brakepads came lose on one brakeshoe! They were original nissan as i ordered them myself at nissan. So they don't last forever.. But hey who knows how old they were before I got them.. Btw.. no fun having some lose parts in your drum, Luckely i was just 100mtrs from home and went back and installed some other ones.

Yeah.. why not.. i was only looking for the name of those rubber thingy's you put in the nice round hole(s).. But first i would clean the complete floor as there are often more holes than you think.. My first 280zx had had every 2 years a new layer of undercoating.. when i had it 10 years it was about 20 years old and the technician that checked my car for MOT (Dutch=APK) said to me he could poke right through the bottom at 17 places or so... It had rotted from the inside.. I never needed to put some undercoating on it.. it had a layer of half a cm.. personally i hate undercoating.. grease is best i think, it wipes off and you see more through it when something is wrong. My latest 280zx has some kind of "silolak"on it.. it's not done by me.. but it's increadable stuff. I ones took of a little bit on the brakeline and after 40 years the original greenish paint nissan used on them came from under it.. in unbelievable good condition. I wish i knew what the pre owner used. Silolak=silolacquer.. "Silolak" in english can be something like: paint for silo's? My translator program just says silo for a silo.. it's a big round standing up tank for pig or chickenfood.. a silo.. long ago they were made of steel and they rusted like hell as some foods can attack the steel.. so they had made a paint called silolacquer

Looks good but i hope that stripe just above the middle of the picture in the lip of the coolant/thermostatholder isn't a crack? 🙊