dutchzcarguy

I thought that those calipers were dark grey? (Maybe unpainted..?) I hear nobody talk about temp resistant paint? I would use some paint on it that can handle well over 150 Celcius.. (How much fahenrats that is i don't know 😉 )

The problem i have with those pins of emblems in the fender or elswhere,, they collect moist and the paint just needs to be a little broken and rust will come.. For thiefs of the emblems.. they get them off one way or another (And brake the paint in the holes) so i find the very sticky stuff the best solution.

Wow!! Then you should use some other brand, i had really difficulty to get them of my fenders years ago and used some of black tape that looked more like sealant.. Till this day it sits there on my fenders being difficult to remove.. i never tried because i got other worries haha.. Maybe one needs to clean the emblems of any grease first? I never had that problem.. are you sure there wasn't a "collector" looking for very rare emblems? 🙈

For as far i can remember you have to take out all the rubber and chrome parts out of the door opening as you need to start the restore of the windscreen at the bottom and work your way up and to the back.. You can't leave the chromerail above the door in place.. you have to work from the front to the back.. i believe i have something like that explaint in my 280zx slick roof restoration.. (As i don't have the t-bar car, The chrome went from under the windscreen till the c-style of my car! It's all fitted in one direction.)

I could believe it when you say they fit without those barrel clips! When i restore a car i weld those (alsways trouble) holes shut! Then i use some strong double sided tape in black. I know that on those Z emblems on the L and R side at the rear are 3 barrel clips (240z at least), they are often rusted.. When you go to use some double sided tape, put the tape first on the emblem and cut it to fit with a hobbyknife, then mark the spot where you want it with some tape (Just under the spot where you want it) and then place the emblem. You'll never loose it and can easy remove it with a thin wire and NO RUST EVER! 🙂

Yes.. sorry @Zed Head I'm a bit lazy these days.. don't read it all.. most important is he nows now what to do.. i hope.. 🙊

Psst ..😉 I had 2! with t-bar and now i have one without.. Don't tell anyone but.. the non t-bar car is much better.. they don't nearly flex as much.. Also the t-bar needs much more new windscreens as they brake in the middle from top to bottom.. i wonder why? ( Answer:from flexing to much! 🙊)

Fantastic work indeed, I would only recommend to clean the lacquer under those screws because now you only have ground through the screw.. one day the screw gets rusty and problems will start. You clean the spot just under the contact lip and screw it on, then you put a little of lacquer over the screw. That's the best contact! It looks very good but it's a bad connection this way..

Btw.. Is your car a t-bar? or a non t-bar zx?

Eèèhhmm.. A 280z and a 280zx are completely different.. A 280z has a rubber all around the windshield like a 240z has.. A 280zx windshield glass is glued to the car.. It's much modern way to place the glass, it's part of the construction now. In picture BF694B You see the things you need.. As these parts are no longer available you can use the today's much better sealant. What you need to save from the old window are the parts i send you a picture of in #5 .. They hold the chrome strips on theire place. If they are broken too you can use some sealant there as well but when you need to replace such windshield it's a pain in the **** to replace..

Good one Site! Didn't know that title but the number i know very well, i listened till the end! Much better than all the sh*t they (almost everyone else) are making lately hahaha...

I see this a bit late.. but i have done this without destroying anything.. i believe.. See my restore of a 1979 280zx2+2 slick roof.. and yes you start in the doors removing stuff to remove the front glass trim.. Don't forget these parts you need for the new glass... see comment 100 on above mentioned topic.

Hihi.. What does one say when you want the car to continue? Engage? (Captain Picard!) 🤣

Hihi.. I would like to see that one to! Hihi.. i don't remember i ever have seen one. A 240z has a fuelfilter under the hood.. that's it.. Other (later) s30 and s130 have a electric pump and a filter in the rear (and a puls dampener for the electric fuelpump.) For as far i know..

Nice opportunity! Could you talk to the car and tell him the adress where you wanted to go or? It remembers me of a cardealer that had a show and he was looking for someone that could drive the new (then) Honda accord, He said he was looking for someone to drive the powerfull car and he knew me as a zx driver.. We took off, him in the passengerseat.. At one point we came to a trafficlight with a few cars already waiting for green, As i approached fast i took a swing on the steeringwheel and went for the right turn lane and he thought i would hit the waiting cars! He Braked like hell on a empty floor Hahaha.. And i said in a calm tone: It isn't easy to brake without a pedal, while i turned to the right taking the car onto the highway! That was FUN! I didn't buy the car but we had a nice ride!

I had the same thoughts when i needed to do my 280zx chrome strips.. (I'm not gonna polish them on a bench polisher.. i already saw the parts fly around in my mind) You could "glue them temporary to a piece of wood with some (small "blobs") silicone, wait a day or 3 and polish the hell out of them.. then take a wire and get them off the wood and clean out the silicone on a clean towel.

The older half shafts have a little screw inbetween were you can put a little nipple to grease them. then put the little screw back. If they have play it will soon get more.. replacing the needle bearings in a halfshaft takes a lot of your patience i learnt..haha..pffff... use lot of grease to hold them in place.

I always have to watch out that my 240z is not going over the 6500rpm's! it wants to go over 7K! And yes the carbs should be around 2,5 turns out. Also check for air leaks and do a ignition timing check.

They were for tying the cars down and the dealers were supposed to take them off before delivery to the customer, but as they were a bit lazy.. they were left on.

Ah, Thanks! We call the number 30 contact (were the signal go's in the switch the P-contact.) Also the common. 30

YES! That circuitry is what we electronic guys call the famous flipflop.. You have to experiment with resistors and capacitors and make one resistor a potentiometer (and a small resistor in series) to make a variable timer.. I believe you guys call it a bread to test on? You can make all kinds of electronic circuits on a testbread. I took a short look at the circuit and in that one you can change one of the LED's for a relay of 6 or 12 V that switches between 2 contacts (My translator says change over contact but that's not a very good translation..) Tutorial 1: Building a Circuit on Breadboard for Beginners in Electronics (startingelectronics.org) In the 2 contact outputs of the relais you put on one of them a high power variable resistor ( as a potmeter but high power=expensive..) for the lower amp's Hope you get it hihi.. It's a nice way to study a bit of electronics making your own circuitry, if your not really interested, i think it's to difficult for someone that never worked with small electronic stuff..

With a "flip-flop" circuit you can find on the internet you can make a 1-100 sec flipflop (Pot-meter on it) and a relais that switches on command of the flipflop circuit and the relais switsches a resistor into your passifying circuit on and off.. Now you have 2 diff. currents going to your parts.. The resistor inline with your parts need to be a power potentiometer that can handle the currents.

I felt addressed there hahaha.. my nickname could be Overfastener Mart haha.. 🙊 (I used to overfasten.. not anymore.. use torquewrenches!) Mart (short for Martin)

Already $3200 and 6 days to go! (I keep my Hitachi's for sure! 😉 )

I think all the injectors have a resistor inline. They are normally in the corner of the engineroom on a aluminum cooling block/frame. I wondered always why there are 6 transistors to open the 6 injectors.. they all open together at ones.. at least the non turbo's do.. They all inject at the same time independant of when theire cylinder needs the gas.. Also.. normally you can NOT put 12 volt on a injector, it will get damaged direct on a car battery. You CAN test them with a little 9 volt battery you find in those firedetectors and remotes or so. They don't have the current to hurt the injector, just give the injector a pulse with the 9v battery, if you ever need to test one. (Put also some carbcleaner in the injector when you do!) Btw.. did you test in the video without injector-resistors ?? I would think that's lethal to the injectors!