dutchzcarguy

For a (very?) short moment i thought.. AM i wrong? but no... my calculator also said: 50 x 2000 = 100,000 $ 🙈

Guys...guys...GUYS!!! 50 bucks times 2000 wakey wakey... how much??? yes a 100 grand not 10k.. 😮 Now you see why a car restore is never cheap when you want it perfect. I always say if i get half of what a prof. restorer/painter/technician asks i'm OK with that. (btw i think as i got much praise on my 280zx restore even from a english pro called Trev' ! (look at "trev's blog"at youtube you learn A LOT!!) i did also a good job. I think my 280zx had easely 2000 hours if i count all the work of finding the parts and getting them and.. and... and... As i said: that 240 is going to be the bisnizz.. hihi..👍 (I mean perfect car/example of a good restore!)

Nice way to clean parts, how much salt (grams) in the liters of lemonjuice? Also some water or?? What i remember from my horns they need a new adjustment to work right but i think you know that. There is a screw for that in the back of the horn i belief (immsmr).

It's totally worth it, total comes around 25 grand.. i guess.. maybe one day i buy it from you for that? hahaha.. no i need to get rid of one first.. a very nice 300zxtt.. You do a very nice job! as we say in the netherlands: GOED BEZIG!! 👍

https://www.hagerty.com/marketplace/auction/hGKn8rHytYkjYUULAJlnh?fbclid=IwAR0MD8_76rmoDK-kIyAPyuPwq4adRbQQ1efNcrX70h6a0GXZ9meozisyOgQ Funny i got the same one, feb 1971 but without the bumper scaffolding 🤣 and a short (no summer/winter valve) airfilter..

I don't! 😉 I wouldn't use the (old?) tantalum caps where the orig. one is a electrolitic.. just get yourself some new c's that are new.. if you gonna use old caps to replace very old one's... that's work for nothing.. you can get the 3 (i counted) caps for a few dollar! Most times these capacitors are the culprit. Watch the plus and minus, put them in correct!

Always all sparkplugs out, this way it's much easyer for the starter (and the battery) as they don't need to work hard to get compression in all 6 cylinders.

Jarnved is in Denmark, In europe we had the 240z with original 5 speed gearbox! (Fs5C71 A or later B ) I once had a 240z original Dutch car (Netherlands) and it had the orig 5 speed standard. (Fs5C71B) That gearbox (and diff! 3,9:1 ) is now under my usa spec 240z. (got the orig parts as spares on the attic)

btw.. i never open the throttle.. and get 150+ psi anyway.. so i don't bother to open the throttle.. a good engine will pull that air anyway.. try it..

Sorry but it's very contradicting what you say.. If the piston in the carb go's UP.. (when giving it throttle), then there MUST BE some vacuüm pulled through it? Right? You got 2 airflowmeters and have you switched them.. maybe one is broken? Does the engine/car pull very well? i assume that the engine is also very weak? Something is blocking the throat of one carb, the engine works on just 1 carb and the other half works via the balance tube? take the inlet apart and see what's going on there! I can't imagine that that engine runs very well and got over 120hp.. A video of it would be awesome.. a engine that runs on 1 rear carb and no air going through the front carb but the piston go's up anyway.. it's just impossible.. i guess... I would take the inlet apart, maybe take a look inside the cylinders with a camera.. take a look at the valves.. etc.etc.

The problem with aluminum, it brakes down.. the radiator in my 240z is at least 30 years old and it would not surprise me if it's his first rad. (so 52 years old.) from hotrodhotline: At this point the move to aluminum construction was purely financial in that raw materials are purchased “by the pound” and a finished aluminum radiator weighs about 25% of a copper/brass unit (dollars per pound being almost equal at that time) and resulted in huge savings to the O.E.’s . This is why we’ve seen most copper/brass manufacturers either switch to aluminum or fold up their tents permanently. It is important to note that this decision was based solely on financial savings and should not be confused with more efficient. Still the old is more efficient and alu is for cheapskates! 🙊😂

The Brassworks; handcrafted radiators made in the USA

I don't have any experience with Aluminium or aluminum radiators.. i only know that i will ALWAYS go for copper! Aluminum cracks much easier and copper cools way better than aluminium will EVER do! (It's a natural fact!) I don't care what people say about alu coolers.. they just don't belong in a Datsun.. period. 😮 Another option would be a firm that makes/repairs old radiators with a new core. I would look for a firm that does that, i would pay a lot more for that kind of quality! (We have one in the Netherlands, the specialism went from dad on son.. Don't know theire name but it's somewhere on youtube..)

Offcourse.. yeah..me lazy..didn't read it all.. tired guy these days... nice build! 👍

It all looks very nice! I wondered why i don't really recognize this part, yeah, it's the plate between the clutchhousing and engine but what is that "bulging" part in the lower part when installed? Never seen one like this one.. i know the 4-5 speed and auto are different but this one..? Is it a 280z plate?

It's good that i have seen "the big bang theory" ! Otherwise i would not have known what the h*** afk means! 🤣

Okay, i can see the membersmap and yes.. i too get the error when i click a specific member (on the top button), didn't test that yesterday.. 😬 But if i click the "find content" button when i go over all the names or type a specific name, it works!

I cán access the members map when i click "community" and go to members map! I get the menbersmap! You guys can't? huh? 😮

I hope to.. one day.. get me one for my 280zx. When the aftermarket one that's on it now is gone bad.. Nice bling you got there Mark, They are not cheap, but worth every penny i think! 👍 Are there people here that had any problems with these stainless exhausts, it's long ago that i heard they cracked or broke off. I think the material they use these days has been improved?

My painter told me those headlight housings are a pain in the a**e .. to paint right.. haha. As you have to paint upside down IN them.. (Oh well.. my painter .. he worked at his dads paintshop, and i think he still can't paint very well after many years.. 🙊 ( I did my own first paintjob in a paintboot on my own car ( the first anti rust layer) and only one drip and i immediately knew what i did wrong!) Your painter did the right thing! As there is a rubber seal between those parts and half a mill distance or so.. if you keep them together you get a mess, separate painting is necessary..

Same here in euroland..

several are for sale on ebay.. i know that the usa had thinner bars then the euro version.. euro had few mm thicker bars.. Like the shocks they were a lot stiffer!

Don't be afraid of it.. just take a very little (we call them watch) screwdriver and do this in a clean well lighted work-room/place. Take the lock and (make pictures all the time..) and simply uncrimp the stainless.. if you think you can't do it .. try it first on one you don't use.. It's more simple than you think and practice makes perfect. Keep the parts in a row and work slowly and careful.. you CAN do it!

Early this year i bought a R180 in parts and shipped it in 2 boxes.. maybe an idea to do that too? outer casing separate from "the rest" also got new bearings with it.. just need to put it together again. 😉

just a "little" more intense... 😂 .... wow.. No, nothing wrong.. hihi..