dutchzcarguy

John means 1: 3,37 not 3,73.. Most R180 are 1:3,364 for the 4 speed. over here we have 1:3.9 for the orig 5 speed 240z box.. for rally there was the 1:4,11 ratio.. my experience is when you install a orig 240z euro 5 speed you need to use the 1:3,9 ratio diff. I don't know if the 280zx 5 speed has much different gears but i guess that there is not much difference so a 1:3,36 diff can give you a bit of a "long" first gear that eats your clutch plate aftyer some time. Also a 1: 3,9 gives shorter gears and more torque. A 1:3,36 gives more top speed. So the answer is i think get yourself a 1: 3,9 diff.. i believe there is also a 1:3,6 and the 1:4,11. It would not surprise me if a 240sx or other nissan diff also would fit.

Check the voltage with a 12v bulb in place of the pump. then you know if the new pump is good. Put a voltmeter over the bulb's contacts and if the voltage is to low say 5v or so than you need to replace or clean your switch. use a 12v 23 to 60 watt or something like that.. for the bulb. (It's possible that a 55-60 watt bulb will draw so much current through your switch it "cleans" the contacts.. haha 🙂 )

I vote NO...😬 As it only ads weight to a car and i much more like the clean look of the bumpers even without those ugly "bumperettes" ... It does not belong on a "original" car as it was a typical usa dealer's addition.. But hey... it's your car, your decision! 🙂

That's what i meant.. I and E valves are on diff places so watch the orientation.. As Jeff said: half is I-E and the others are E-I. I guess Rebello already had numbered the pistons, so you only have to put them in the right spot. Btw. did you know that Traum in german means: dream? those are dream-pistons! 😃

I would take the car for a spin in the reverse gear (i guess that one works aswell) , maybe drive a bit in 3rd.. when it heats up the gears will/can come available again (first and second.) But do check first the gearbox oil for water, first open the filler and then the lower one to let some oil/water out.. if there is any water inthere.. replace the oil. then go for a small ride to let oil go round in the box.

Am i right.. you must have 2 different pistons? (the indents on top are different) ?

Just my opinion.. but i don't get it when people go for a electric fan to cool.. they use a lot of energy.. that's why there is a big mechanical fan on a engine.. no they say i first go make a lot of electric energy (Big generator/alternator and even fatter cables) with my mechanical engine, then i make with a big electric motor a lot of mechanical energy to cool.. that's energy lost twice!!!!! 🙈 The only time a electric fan is useful when the mechanical one can't keep up!! This was done in a 300zx twin turbo.. they have both "sorts" of fans.. then it makes sence.. As i said just my opinion! 😉

Something else i wanted to say about the 46's .. they are really lazy and easy to drive on the road for normal conditions. i see that lots of people have trouble with those big webers .. when i start my 240z it stays running ALWAYS!! It has very very few times died on me.. only times was because i didn't give it enough choke.. I see webers start with a lot of hesatating/stutter.. They are a p.i.t.a. on the road.. i would like them on a track.. not on the road.

I saw that i had wrote HJG45W that should be 46! i guess you did also a typo there you mean 46's? they are also good to use on a non standard engine i guess.. (Or did you write 47 to balance it out? 😂

If you smell the fuel.. and talk about a non original ignition.. i bet it's the ignition that's the culprit.. I don't drive much i got orig points and stuff and renewed the points last year or so ... for the first time. they were stil okay but i thought let's put new ones in.. never had one problem with it. Hihi.. i thought oh..oh... when i read that.. I'm sorry but i don't like electronics in a 240z that don't belong.. (Maybe it because as i'm a electronics engineer.. i know what can and will go wrong hahaha...)

Webers and carbs alike are often a problem .. just my experience.. I like the HJG46W a lot! Have my 240z now for 25 years and drove not a lot but i only readjusted them once! (They are more or less without a problem! ) And another thing.. wait with buying a lot of stuff you don't need at the moment ( no don't ask haha how i know..) Yes it's nice to buy yourself a lot of sparkling new stuff but first GET THAT CHASSIS/BODY READY FIRST! 😮 You also must have won the lottery as you want a 3,1 L engine build? those are not cheap! And carbs like webers dito. the hitachi's are original and without problems and not expensive.. think twice.. 🙊

Please put Inches (In?),miles (mls) or kilometers(km) behind those numbers as we are a bit international.. i don't mind (actually i do but hey what can i do) that you use those (damn) inches.. 🙊 As Japanese cars are most in metric.. (exceptions are pipes and tires ..) Again i'm interested how it will work, Can't believe that all the numbers were with'in the tolerances.. I think it's going to use alot of oil.. Hihi.. last week someone overhere was selling a L24.. he said he had a nice looking painted L24 and showed some pic's.. as i asked what he did to the cylinderwall he said that he had polished them with 2000 sandpaper! 🙈😮 And yeah he also told me that a carguy said it looked good! Yeah it's a polished turd.. I told him he better not listen to the carguy as he has no clue! Now that engine needs a complete revision that's for sure.

Btw.. i think i never have seen that clip on that wheel to prevent it from turning, is it a HMB46W carb? (flattop)

🙊 I had a questionmark behind it! I personal don't think they are anchors.. (worthless) .. These flatheads are just much more complicated to tune right! Also they are more sensitive to wear i think.. Never tuned one as i'm not a carb specialist.. a HJG46W (roundtop) is a simple carburator that even a twat like me can get running very well ( 🙊 ) hihi.. Years ago i bought a complete L24 with everything on it (also gearbox euro 5 speed!) and it had flattops.. 1 carb was seriously damaged so i took the needles from them and saved them.. hence the question.. It's common that the american guys talk about SU carbs on our z cars, i stopped to correct them on that years ago .. THEY ARE NOT SU.. THEY ARE HITACHI CARBS! 🙈🤣 There are A LOT of small differences between the SU and Hitachi carbs.. (It's like a improved version of the SU.)

I got doors but yeah i'm in europe.. One tip i can give .. post a pic of the lock side of the door and maybe also a pic of the hole of the lock when it's removed as that is the big difference in the door between the 240 and 260z. btw i got both sorts of doors.. in good and very good condition.. As parts (and cars) overhere are often much more expensive i would look around in the States for parts. Btw, 08/73 is a very early one maybe it also has the 240z doors still in it..? very interesting, looking out for your pic's.

Maybe now you can put that on there, send a copy to @Mike (JDM S31 parts resource)

i thought you look under resources and downloads on this site! You see lots of service manuals under resources on the main site! Classic Zcar Club File Downloads (classiczcars.com)

Yes but only sealed to the axle as it has to be able to move.. it will wear out pretty fast as the axle has play. But we will see how long it takes i'm sure.. 😉

For me zinc has always a grey color, (like the new screws and bolts you can buy at the DIY) .. i didn't know that you could make it blue-ish or golden yellow, still learning! 🤠 I always liked those "golden"parts under the hood!

Okay.. not rubber.. but just remember when the engine starts to act up after a few hundred miles that it could be that your neoprene is gone..

Could come from just conduction.. or is it still hot after say an hour after closing the valve? I think those valves never close very optimal anyway..

(sarcasm..) I would never have guessed! 🙊 They differ a lot! But the old are history, try the new ones, just put in 2 exact the same needles.. Does anyone know if you can use the needles from a HMB46W (boatanchors ? ) flathead carbs in a roundhead HJG46W ? Probably not.. ( Those carbs are so different it would surprise me if the needles are interchangable..) Yeah it would, but if you do this with those rubber rings... don't expect it to last longer than a few hundred miles at the max.. you need to put in new brass bearings.. at least on the side were the axel comes out.. the other end you COULD place a cap on to let no air in.. i wonder why no one came on that solution.. i find it simple..just put a cap on the end and it's leak free.. 👍

AND... as it's thread is tapered, you don't need to screw it all the way in.. as a matter a fact about half way is enough and some tape (PTFE) is a good insurance that you don't brake it. It's a mistery to me what they used. But they say it's zinc.. colored blue or yellow.. I can give you theire website. but i have to say: they only did my parts because i bring and get them myself and they do them between the other (Very big) orders.. Last time he said they normally don't do these small (private) collections of parts. GTO Plating BV – Passie voor Perfectie (It says: we have passion for perfection.)

Also.. Hexavalent chromium - Wikipedia

Just looked it up.. but hexavalent chromium.. isn't much better.. i remember there were a lot of sick service engineers in the Dutch railways (NS) because of it.. we call it chromium6 and it's very bad stuff.. (when taking of paint and layers.. you need an awful lot of protection..) Read this also: What is Hexavalent Chromium (or Chromium-6)? | Britannica