dutchzcarguy

Am i right.. you must have 2 different pistons? (the indents on top are different) ?

Just my opinion.. but i don't get it when people go for a electric fan to cool.. they use a lot of energy.. that's why there is a big mechanical fan on a engine.. no they say i first go make a lot of electric energy (Big generator/alternator and even fatter cables) with my mechanical engine, then i make with a big electric motor a lot of mechanical energy to cool.. that's energy lost twice!!!!! 🙈 The only time a electric fan is useful when the mechanical one can't keep up!! This was done in a 300zx twin turbo.. they have both "sorts" of fans.. then it makes sence.. As i said just my opinion! 😉

Something else i wanted to say about the 46's .. they are really lazy and easy to drive on the road for normal conditions. i see that lots of people have trouble with those big webers .. when i start my 240z it stays running ALWAYS!! It has very very few times died on me.. only times was because i didn't give it enough choke.. I see webers start with a lot of hesatating/stutter.. They are a p.i.t.a. on the road.. i would like them on a track.. not on the road.

I saw that i had wrote HJG45W that should be 46! i guess you did also a typo there you mean 46's? they are also good to use on a non standard engine i guess.. (Or did you write 47 to balance it out? 😂

If you smell the fuel.. and talk about a non original ignition.. i bet it's the ignition that's the culprit.. I don't drive much i got orig points and stuff and renewed the points last year or so ... for the first time. they were stil okay but i thought let's put new ones in.. never had one problem with it. Hihi.. i thought oh..oh... when i read that.. I'm sorry but i don't like electronics in a 240z that don't belong.. (Maybe it because as i'm a electronics engineer.. i know what can and will go wrong hahaha...)

Webers and carbs alike are often a problem .. just my experience.. I like the HJG46W a lot! Have my 240z now for 25 years and drove not a lot but i only readjusted them once! (They are more or less without a problem! ) And another thing.. wait with buying a lot of stuff you don't need at the moment ( no don't ask haha how i know..) Yes it's nice to buy yourself a lot of sparkling new stuff but first GET THAT CHASSIS/BODY READY FIRST! 😮 You also must have won the lottery as you want a 3,1 L engine build? those are not cheap! And carbs like webers dito. the hitachi's are original and without problems and not expensive.. think twice.. 🙊

Please put Inches (In?),miles (mls) or kilometers(km) behind those numbers as we are a bit international.. i don't mind (actually i do but hey what can i do) that you use those (damn) inches.. 🙊 As Japanese cars are most in metric.. (exceptions are pipes and tires ..) Again i'm interested how it will work, Can't believe that all the numbers were with'in the tolerances.. I think it's going to use alot of oil.. Hihi.. last week someone overhere was selling a L24.. he said he had a nice looking painted L24 and showed some pic's.. as i asked what he did to the cylinderwall he said that he had polished them with 2000 sandpaper! 🙈😮 And yeah he also told me that a carguy said it looked good! Yeah it's a polished turd.. I told him he better not listen to the carguy as he has no clue! Now that engine needs a complete revision that's for sure.

Btw.. i think i never have seen that clip on that wheel to prevent it from turning, is it a HMB46W carb? (flattop)

🙊 I had a questionmark behind it! I personal don't think they are anchors.. (worthless) .. These flatheads are just much more complicated to tune right! Also they are more sensitive to wear i think.. Never tuned one as i'm not a carb specialist.. a HJG46W (roundtop) is a simple carburator that even a twat like me can get running very well ( 🙊 ) hihi.. Years ago i bought a complete L24 with everything on it (also gearbox euro 5 speed!) and it had flattops.. 1 carb was seriously damaged so i took the needles from them and saved them.. hence the question.. It's common that the american guys talk about SU carbs on our z cars, i stopped to correct them on that years ago .. THEY ARE NOT SU.. THEY ARE HITACHI CARBS! 🙈🤣 There are A LOT of small differences between the SU and Hitachi carbs.. (It's like a improved version of the SU.)

I got doors but yeah i'm in europe.. One tip i can give .. post a pic of the lock side of the door and maybe also a pic of the hole of the lock when it's removed as that is the big difference in the door between the 240 and 260z. btw i got both sorts of doors.. in good and very good condition.. As parts (and cars) overhere are often much more expensive i would look around in the States for parts. Btw, 08/73 is a very early one maybe it also has the 240z doors still in it..? very interesting, looking out for your pic's.

Maybe now you can put that on there, send a copy to @Mike (JDM S31 parts resource)

i thought you look under resources and downloads on this site! You see lots of service manuals under resources on the main site! Classic Zcar Club File Downloads (classiczcars.com)

Yes but only sealed to the axle as it has to be able to move.. it will wear out pretty fast as the axle has play. But we will see how long it takes i'm sure.. 😉

For me zinc has always a grey color, (like the new screws and bolts you can buy at the DIY) .. i didn't know that you could make it blue-ish or golden yellow, still learning! 🤠 I always liked those "golden"parts under the hood!

Okay.. not rubber.. but just remember when the engine starts to act up after a few hundred miles that it could be that your neoprene is gone..

Could come from just conduction.. or is it still hot after say an hour after closing the valve? I think those valves never close very optimal anyway..

(sarcasm..) I would never have guessed! 🙊 They differ a lot! But the old are history, try the new ones, just put in 2 exact the same needles.. Does anyone know if you can use the needles from a HMB46W (boatanchors ? ) flathead carbs in a roundhead HJG46W ? Probably not.. ( Those carbs are so different it would surprise me if the needles are interchangable..) Yeah it would, but if you do this with those rubber rings... don't expect it to last longer than a few hundred miles at the max.. you need to put in new brass bearings.. at least on the side were the axel comes out.. the other end you COULD place a cap on to let no air in.. i wonder why no one came on that solution.. i find it simple..just put a cap on the end and it's leak free.. 👍

AND... as it's thread is tapered, you don't need to screw it all the way in.. as a matter a fact about half way is enough and some tape (PTFE) is a good insurance that you don't brake it. It's a mistery to me what they used. But they say it's zinc.. colored blue or yellow.. I can give you theire website. but i have to say: they only did my parts because i bring and get them myself and they do them between the other (Very big) orders.. Last time he said they normally don't do these small (private) collections of parts. GTO Plating BV – Passie voor Perfectie (It says: we have passion for perfection.)

Also.. Hexavalent chromium - Wikipedia

Just looked it up.. but hexavalent chromium.. isn't much better.. i remember there were a lot of sick service engineers in the Dutch railways (NS) because of it.. we call it chromium6 and it's very bad stuff.. (when taking of paint and layers.. you need an awful lot of protection..) Read this also: What is Hexavalent Chromium (or Chromium-6)? | Britannica

Good news/info! 👍 Happy to hear.. i guess i heard people telling about it.. calling it a cadmium finish but in reality it's zinc.. So these new plated parts are in Hexavalent chromium.. Am (again) learning something today! 🙂 EDIT EDIT EDIT !!!! EDIT.. as you said not all is chromium6.. i looked at the website of the firm that did my parts and they say it's zinc passified in blue or yellow. so NO chromium6 on my cars! 😅 Tip.. put a small steel strip in the springs.. now you get a nice perfect passified part..

I understand that the thread was already 1/8"-27 NPT as the tap needed no force to go through the thread? You DID alter the thread on the sensor, i think that's the way to go! If this connection is gonna leak (As there are now 2 sorts of threads on it.. sort of..) you use some tape as sayd.. (also.. I just remember.. i think the thread on there was tapered? .. so i think as you went further on to the thread it was more difficult to cut the thread?) anyway use some PTFE. (always put it on stretching the tape and go with the thread, not against it. 2-3 turns is enough.)

I hope you did this in a "well ventilated room" as the "gold" is a metal called... Cadmium.. it it very poisonous/toxic! (the proces to get it on there is called passifying) There a lots of passified parts on our cars.. When installing a oilpressure sender it's no problem to use some P.T.F.E tape also called teflon tape on the thread, to keep it from leaking. Personally i never have seen a o.p.s. that was leaking in the way you described.

I often use some soft copper plates that protect any part that i put in my vice, i got it from a plumber, also the slater has some left overs that you could use. 🙂

I wondered if the "damper" isn't installed backwards? i'm not sure but isn't the lower tube the inlet? Haven't investigate this as i'm a lazybone...