dutchzcarguy

It can't get any worse.. the metall will get clean and the rubberparts will get better, if that's enough to let it work well.. we don't no untill we try.. 🤠 If not.. nothing lost!

And? did it work out? It's a gamble but who knows..

Don't know if there is a spring in there.. you could put a black piece of (half a) ring in there to let it pivot some more.. maybe? Maybe the mirror can be taken apart and make the ball on the back a bit bigger? I guess there a 2 screws in the door bit? if you put the mirror with it's back screw on the front hole (so the mirror sits like 2 inch further to the front, i bet that would be enough.. yeah i know you see the other hole in the door.. but the mirror works. 😬

I think the spot were they sit now it to far back? If the right mirror was few inches more forward it would be fine (the vision).. Maybe someone can take a pic of the right hand mirror (In LHD car) seen from the driverseat? Most mirrors are more into the front corner of the window.. i think..

Disagree! I got a special pair of eyes...!! Jokes aside.. most cars if you can get the past of the car, and use magnets, some special (small) places that are almost always rotted cleaned to the metall, then you cán tell if it's a good body. Also use a endoscope for internal rust! NO no... most people drive on the RIGHT right side! (Just messing with yeh..) It's NOT a problem at all as the chassis is made for both! LHD and RHD! Didn't you see this already?? So it's very easy to put the parts from your RHD on the LHD car..... 🙂 I would think it over as Namerow has a point here.. you never know how big a mess a specialist still can make.. (Don't ask!!! pffff...) When the car is completely ready for a drive on a nice day.. then you will know what it all costed, not earlyer..

One of the best rock and roll groups ever, and FROM THE NETHERLANDS !!!!!! WATCH THIS !! It's a song from ... 1973 !! The band was playing from 1961 till 2021 !!! that's 60 years!! and look the energy that the drummer still has!! WOW!

Yeah, i have seen more than once overhere locally that people asked for a chassis s30.. it always made me laugh.. if i could get me one i would buy it! I got enough parts to make me another one! (On the other hand i have to much work already and feel to sick to work on another car so... don't offer me a chassis please! 🤒)

I know someone here in the Netherlands that had a car like yours and it came back from sandblasting and looked like yours.. he went to a specialist and he said.. If you give me 10 grand (euro's) for the repairs of only the rust, i'm not gonna touch it! So he bought another chassis.. There was not a single panel on the car that didn't need work. I already admired your perseverance! I expected a chassis with lots of welds and holes.. (Like most original imports in the Netherlands are having A LOT of welds) and sadly i got right. I wouldn't continu with this kind of rust.. but i think i said that year(s) ago.. It's your car/money.. Has the carshop seen this car? and you got a quote? If it's lower than 5 numbers they are not a specialist/professionalist.. And another tip.. never ever pay the full amount on front, my painter still has to work on my car (polish the complete car as it's an orange..) and he still a grant short. Now he stopped with the firm as he's 68 years old and i'm happy i didn't pay him all Now i can do this myself and keep the money! Good luck, hope you find a guy that wants to work on your car for a reasonable amount of money..

Never heard of that! It's one or the other never both! (I think your cars previous owner didn't know what he was doing?) It could work iff you installed the special oilpump.. but you solved the problem already! 🤠 On topic.. I got a reserve N47 from a 280zx USA. does that have the same exhaust ports as the N47 from the older 280z's? (I'm asking because there are also old and new E88's that are totally different! ) My N47 does have the steel inlays/linings in the exhaust so it must have come from a US 280zx as our 280zx's never had a cath.. I always thought that they were there (Those linings) to keep the exhaustgasses hotter for the catalitic converter, so it chemical reaction's start earlier? Isn't it possible to make the outlet's better ( get rid of the linings and make them a lot bigger for a good flow)? The valves are big enough i think.

At 3 min he drops somthing into the engine (sparkplughole.. at 3:30 he starts to TURN the engine.. 🙈 i would never do that when i just dropped something into it! At 15 min he finds the part.. BUT.. Yeah, nice oiling system on the camshaft! (The old way seems to be the best way!)

CO.. What is that.. the old standby method? and.. what is the function exactly of this ferrule? and last but not least.. how are you supposed to get them ON again? Also.. I'm glad that our euro cars not suffer from rotten rubber lines so often.. (My 280zx injectors are 44 years old and in very good condition..)

good question.. It can be a lot.. Don't know if you are handy with a multimeter but there is a saying here: measuring is knowing, the rest you can forget! Just follow the power on the wiring.. if there is no power "behind" the switch.. this is the culprit.. It's important to do this in a sertain sequence.. Maybe a circuit diagram (here on the site) of your car comes in handy? You can learn a lot of this!

That raptor stuff sounds a bit like the stuff we call "bodyshoot" It's a sort of hard rubber like stuff.. i used it under the paint on the lower parts of my 280zx. It's a anti chip for keeping the paintwork in it's place. If you want the original look... well than you will have a lot of rust under your car in a few years.. and yes that's original.. but i wouldn't do that!! Take the good advice of the paintshop. (I would.)

Paintshops over here have a scedule, you go on a big board with all the other cars. So no weeks or month's later.. Once i was at a painter for my work long ago and there was a hobby car that one day should get painted.. the next year i came there.. it was still in the corner.. haha but the owner had told them to paint it when they were low on jobs that needed to be done.. hahaha.. Lesson, never tell a carpainter it does not matter when he does it.. it never gets done! (not that you did this!) Your shop just does not keep their end of the deal.. pfff... (They would have painted my last car i tell yah!)

I got a clock like that and comes out of a euro 260z and is a calendar clock.. with one knob on the front like the above.. i believe the rally clock has 2 knobs on front? (I'm not sure maybe someone can elaborate on this?) I have no idea if that clock of mine was a standard in a Dutch (Netherlands) 260z car.. (i mean with the date showing on the right in the clock facia. Googled some.. and came up with: 😏 🤣 your own explanations.. Rally Clock Identification - Zclocks So.. it's a calendarclock.. And they are expensive because.. (i know this because i have also worked on clocks) it's a lot of specialist work! Well done! (I guess they come with a year or 2(?) warranty?)

And.. he's still smoking his sigaret! Good to see him among friends.

No need to.. hihi.. AND IT'S JISSSS... EH.. JIS! 🤣 Japan-Industrial-Standard. but they stopped with these around 1974-78 with these and my 1979 280zx has phillips screws.. zKars, thanks for the information on the thread size etc. I just wanted to be (to) correct.. one of my obnoxious qualities! 😉

You can recognize these screws by the little dimple in one of the 4 edges on the screwhead!!

Nope... not a phillips.. it's a JIS headscrew, many screws get damaged by working with a phillips head screwdriver! It's JIS! google for some perfect fitting screwdriver. Lots of screws in a s30 are JIS.

A picture tells a thousand words.. All i can say now is.. it will be a metric bolt..? Get yourself a service manual!! It's in there somewere... i guess.

You mean: GET the engine etc.etc? Yes you could check if the engine runs by spaying some starterfluid into the air inlet, if it has ignition working it should fire up Yes.. and no.. 🙃 The resistance is low, very low, you can test a injector with a full 9 volt (those small battery's) battery.. NEVER EVER test it with a big battery or the car battery because you WILL fry the thing! Injectors are electronically regulated and the current is a very short puls that normally wouldn't kill the injector copper windings.. BUT.. As John (Yarb) sayd: first learn a lot about the way it works in theory.. And then slowly start to make a logical list of things to test.. And remember there are many things that can and will go wrong with these old "computer" controlled injection systems.

Another idea would be: put both inner parts of both valves in the one solution, you got 2 fly's in one hit! (Dutch saying..) 🤠

The internal part with the rubber parts is a perfect test .. put it in washing detergent and let it soak a few days (heat it up sometimes to max 60 C. you get new rings.. (only if the rings are not damaged ofcourse)

Yeah, better safe then sorry.. You let us know how it went, i always leave it in the solution for a few days and put new hot water and "detergent"(washing powder) on it and hot water.. (not higher than 50-60 degrees Celcius!) (We have forgotten herr Fahrenheit..hahaha) You can repeat the proces a few times. Very hard parts can take a week or 2.. but i always got them soft again.. I must say parts from very hot area's are the toughest to get soft.. I also remember some rubber rings out of a pinball machine, they were so bad, they had lots of little holes in them when you stretched them, after a good soak there was not a single hole in them it rejuvanated completely! They were white rubbers from the flippers and a lot of dirt came off. they where whiter and looked like new! Enough talk about rubbers! 😏