dutchzcarguy

Sorry? on your in between jobs day or ? don't know what you mean with layover? To ad to the list i sometimes watch that series where 2 highway cops do theire work in miami or so? from the '70's also that series.. highway cops? You see all kinds of classic cars drive by haha.. There IS only one car i really hate and it's that stupid beetle.. a older friend drove a cabrio.. pfff... (sigh) those things are impossible to drive fast as we say: dat ding is NIET VOORUIT TE BRANDEN! WAT EEN SCHIJTBAK! 🙊

I know the orig 240z is a Nichira. Is this 260z also from that fabricator? I should say: "Nichira" big on the rear muffler. The orig 240z exhaust didn't have very big diameter and could profit from bigger ones, i don't know but did the 260z have some bigger diameter exhaust pipe? (also is the partnumber different? i do have fiches but no reader present sadly..) Here some pictures from a original 240z exhaust (rear part) last made in 1999! (for as far i know!)

280zx L28 TURBO Haltech 550 install - Bing video

Yeah found it! Now he has to decide if it also will fit on a EURO 280zx turbo! 🙂

THANKS, THANKS A LOT! I think that's a good alternative for him.. Thanks man! I'll send him what i find when i google it. Mart(in)

Nope.. he does not.. He bought a car i have seen before and IS a euro (Dutch) turbo zx! I know because i've seen the car years ago when i bought some parts from the man that had this car in the Netherlands.. it's now in Belgium. Thanks Zed, but no.. it's 100% a 280zx turbo and he didn't tell me but it must be a 1983 turbo as there was only in 1983 a turbo version in the Netherlands orig. imported and sold by the dealer. And folks.. i do know the difference between a turbo and a injector fan haha! 🤣 I told him he could go for a megasquirt system or maybe something from Jenvey, but i don't know if it's possible to use that on a turbo engine. He's just someone that asked me for parts but i don't have any for the turbo cars.. One thing is very clear.. there IS a lot of difference between the euro and USA version! 😫

Also check the fusebox on bad connections. take out 1 fuse and close the clamps and check it they are still have a good conn. to the back cable. clean the fuse clamps with alcohol. Put back fuse and check if it is clamped well.. next fuse etc. etc.

280zx turbo USA version.. won't fit.. see connector euro and connectorS usa..

Thanks ZED! But i only repeat what he told me, i'm just helping him out, if someone has one i give his adres (if he is oké with that.) He told me that a USA version did not fit.. (Also: a euro has 204 HP and a usa has 180HP .. or could it be that there is a difference because the usa is in HP DIN. and the euro is in HP SAE ? (That could explain the difference!) He sended me a pic of the connector of his 280zx turbo: I got a 280zx turbo service manual but they only refer to it as: The EFI control unit.. No numbers no nothing.. I see that the unit on zdriver.com has a complete different connector.. actually 2 connectors! so that's probably why it won't fit.

No one? Looking for a ECU for euro 280zx turbo. 1983.

I was talking about the amp that is (always one) IN the radio.. For as far i know has the original radio a double wire for the (mono) speaker and is not attached to the chassis of the car. With a Ohm-meter you can always check if there is a connection between the speakerwires and ground. there should be none! (disconnect the radio when measuring the wires.) Speakers can be 4 or 8 ohms that's not very important.. You can mix them when you attach a 8 ohm speaker to a 4 ohm amp output you will get only half of the power out but still enough.. when you put a 4 ohm speaker to a 8 ohm output you will hear that it starts to scream/distort at you.. sort of.. as the volume go's up you'll have to watch the temperature of your amp. but most times it's no problem.. The problem starts when you constantly listen music on max power then your amp could get to hot! (Another solution is to series 2 x 4 ohms speakers to get 8 ohms, then you'll never can blow up the amp and the speakers can handle twice as much power!) You guys in america have 120v and 3 fase 220 volt That's what i thought.. But you make a mess of it!! I looked it up and see that the united states have: 120/208 V / 277/480 V / 120/240 V / 240 V / 480 V (all at 60 Hz) ! Her you go Cliff! : Complete list: Three-phase electric power (voltages/frequencies) - World Standards I think most North american states have 120/208 volt ( so one line (1 phase against ground*) is 120volts and 3 phase is 240volt between the phases.) We've gone from 220v/380v to 230v/400volt about 15 years ago.. * I don't know how you call the 0volt wire.. so i called it ground..

This does not matter.. the speaker's housing is totally isolated from the speaker's coil. Most radio's (amp's) are NOT happy when you use the minus or chassis on one side of the speaker.. You need to use 2 isolated wires from the amplifier to the speaker, NO ground! (Do not ground one of these wires onto your cars chassis!) Eh... No.. But it can blow-up your amplifier! When you put a testlight (basicly a resistor of low impedance..) between a 12V+ and a speakerwire.. you are putting a voltage (DC) on a amplifier output and that can be catastrophic! (Personally i NEVER use a testlight always a multimeter or scope.) If you put some DC on a speaker, do this with a 10-20 watt old speaker and a 1,5 volt battery.. when you put the 1,5v to the speaker you will see the cone go in or out depending on where you put the plus and minus! So you can imagine the music signal must be AC as the cone moves on the music IN and OUT.. Imagine.. that speaker cone gets a signal made out of many,many!! frequencies and it has to "speak out" ALL of these frequencies at once!! Now you probably have much more respect for a speaker.. About home audio... As an audiofile (My other expensive hobby 😉 ) I got some experience with amps and speakers.. The speakers are the most important part in a audio system.. you can have a perfect set of Amps/recorders/players/tuners but when your speakers stink.. you'll have no good sound. I don't expect a good sound out of a speaker that cost 30$.. Personally i listen to speakers more in the range of 1000-3000$ (Studer's ReVox Symbol MK2's and Zachry EM24's (These are from the 70's and 80's!)) Here some dream speakers....

Hihi.. As i have worked some time in studio-audio... long time ago.. i find this a funny remark.. CO thanks for the explanation.. it's not a bad explanation.. i wanted to ad: IF you DO measure some DC on your loudspeaker cable.. your amplifier is leaking DC and this kills your speaker if it's a lot.. It also distorts your sound as your speakercone will come to far out of the speakerchassis or if it's a negative DC it wil got to far inside and get stuck.. DC on a speaker is always a very bad thing. If you want to get rid of a speaker, put some 200 volts DC on it and look how fast the cone will get out of the unit! BTW.. 200 volts AC does the job aswell 😉

Didn't read it all but just wanted to say.. the rear springs are the same but the fronts (i heard) are 2 different length's (and strength?) did you know? This was done for balancing out the weight diff. front L and front R.. So.. original there are 3 types of spring used on a 240z..

Hi guys, Can someone tell me what's the difference between a euro 280zxt and a usa 280zx turbo ECU (Yes the 280zx turbo has a ecu like ECCS.. As it has a Microprocessor (and thus a clockfrequency!) it's a electronic computer) Where the nonturbo had a sort of analog computer the turbo had a real processor in it! Some guy from Belgium needs a ECU for a 1983 euro 280zx turbo.. nowhere to be found.. i was informed that the usa version will not fit.. someone have some info on the type/part number that's used in 280zx turbo usa and euro? Thanks, for any info!

Really guys, don't laugh.. NO structural rust! (for as long you don't really look behind the fenders..) Hey D..d..d..denniell (shoudn't it be D..d..d..deny?) 🤣 Make some pic's of the part behind the front fenders for us.. (The part just behind the front wheels.. Internal it's gone i bet.)

I doubt that is possible.. as there are also internal grease "lines" neccessary.. When/if you take them apart.. don't use any force as it will give you a lot of stress.. if it go's wrong with those tedioes needle bearings, take some time off as it's really a pain sometimes.. As your u-joints are not new and you will have sand in them i would for sure clean em out and install them with new grease. (Those seals are never so good to withstand the pressure of the sand.. and the (sand/coal) dust will ruin your needlebearings.) About the arrow, is there another arrow on the other u-joint at the other end of the drive axle? and is it pointing in the same direction?

Those arrows can have something to do with the in-out speed of a u-joint.. i bet the other u-joint in the same axle has the arrow 180 degrees turned! A output of a u-joint has a sinus wave like outputspeed and the next u-joint needs to be in a 180 degrees setting to undo this and not double this problem??? I have no idea.. does that make any sense? haha.. 😮 More here: Universal joint - Wikipedia

When i saw your first picture i thought there is the inlet for the grease.. but pic 2 told me it's not! Maybe on the older ones there is the little screw were one can install the greasenipple to grease the thing.. and is yours a newer one that's greased for life and has no inlet for grease any longer.. the arrow is still in the casting but has no use.. just my 2 cents.. could be wrong.. I can see 3 of the 4 corners that could have the little ( brass?) screw were you can install the nipple but i guess on the 4th spot is also no little screw? If they have no little screw those u-joints are greased for (a shorter?) life.. I don't think you can drill holes in u-joints.. ALSO.. aren't you worried that there gets dust from the sand or coal in your u-joints? Or do you take them apart after blasting and pack them with new grease? I WOULD! It's a tedious job but saves you later on a lot of headaches! (If possible and in budget i would renew these important parts i think u-joints are! still good ones with known low miles i would reuse with new grease.)

As some guys here know, i'm also here to learn some english writing.. 😉 Hey Paul.. read your paper on the engine in the first pic.. hihi.. what kind of linkage? I don't have a good answer on your question, but overall.. there are A LOT of differences in these cars parts.. sigh..

Yeah.. me dummy.. i was thinking of the 280zx pressure there as those have the pump under the fueltank. they need a high pressure filter as your car has at the moment.. (i think i see one on the pictures.. like a 280zx fuelfilter.)

You could use a piece of clear fuel line though.. 😉

If it happens again, the needle valves of the carbs (are in the top of the fuel bowl) are sticking. clean them by spraying some carb cleaner into them.. if it happens more after that, replace these little needlevalves (watch out these can be 2 different ones for the front and rear carbs!) As the fuelbowls have air outlets, you can blow air into these needle valves without a problem.. then your sure they are open. Also were could you buy the new pump?

Oh well.. remanufactured and REMANufactured.. there are a lot of differences.. I can't tell from that pic if it's any good.. missing a lot of parts.. sigh.. About the video.. can't tell as i never seen those testers at work.. (Never had a ignition problem ... i wonder why? )

I found prices like 150-170 dollar but overhere they are at a (little?) better price.. look: Hatch Tail Gate Hinge Rubber Seal 240Z 260Z 280Z | Z Car Depot Inc