dutchzcarguy

It should be called BVA-"veiling" but we dutchies like a bit of english to do popular! "popyjoopies" 😉 BVA auctions is a Dutch "veiling"site. I knew only 1 car that had that option (sunroof) .. it had 2 glass pieces but no lighting at all. just a satin black cover (flat) for as far i can remember.. i think that is a good solution for you.. and if you find a original lighting armature you can always go back.. but i don't think you find that any time soon. 😢 Datsun 280Z Sport Coupé 169pk 1976, 88-YD-81 - BVA Auctions - online veilingen (bva-auctions.com)

It's for sale at the moment.... with lots of miles on it..

It seems to have 2 bulbs in it...

I got something for ya! 😉

I would use some heat isolating tape wrapped around the exhaust manifold! If you have a dirty old inlet N36 i would file that one to look how deep the water or air cavity is.. NICE work! I like that exhaust manifold but i hear they often ( the cheap ones?) leak between the manifold and head.. This one looks made of better material. nice fat contact plate.. Your doing well!

In a Ghostlike voice: I can see you! in the bumperrrr... On your socks! Btw. the rpm's keeping hanging to high .. i got that too.. a bit.. i think the set of carbs (mine) need a restore or good cleaning at least.. it's 15 years ago i did this for the last time.. so.... Nice 280z you got there! I think i need such a spoiler/front lip too.. At 210 on the german highway the car wants to take off a bit hahaha.. yeah kilometers.. not miles!

Lube help for Bowdencable..

Don't know but there should different diameter lubricating thingy's be.. Those steel U-form things you can take out and place it onto the cable. Lube with teflon or ptfe - oil. And close the lid. leave the thing on the hole in the cable. (maybe use some super glue to let it stick on the right spot. 🙂 Just use a little drop haha otherwise you glue the cable stuck!

But make sure the end of the cable is a clean cut otherwise you'll never be able to get it back in... There are things for it to put on the outer lining, you have to make a little hole in the plastic, then put a lube-thing (PIC!) over it and then you can lube the inner cable without taking it out..

I made a account to follow the 300zx tt's and i'm not gonna do anything and leave the site.. interesting what's gonna happen.... (I had an offer on mine and was much more than i paid for it so i looked at BAT and there they are even (a lot) more.. I'm in no hurry to sell, it was 15 when i bought it and now it's 30! years old! And never restored and almost as new.. 🙂 )

JEP! this morning i got a mail to strengthen my password..pfff...

Does not matter if you give full throttle, only in our minds it helps haha.. i often doe it myself at cold start.. Just pull the choke completely when very cold weather..

The place were the outer lining of the cable is connected is maybe lose at the choke-knob in your mid-console?

When i take a good look on that tip.. it closes something.. as it has a rounded scoring on it.. i would think it's out of a solonoid..

Take care for the edge of the hole as this will rust, use a good anti-rust paint in there.. Btw.. did you glue the rubber also (on the top edge .. inside) ? I once did some new rubber on my 240z bumper and they looked a bit wobbly, still do a bit.. next time i use a black rubber sort of glass/windscreen glue to let them sit snug to the chrome.. also protects against water in between that.. unfortunately it made a rusty spot now on my right side rear bumper part..sigh... My painter (your paintershop to?) has 2 sorts of black rubber glue-ie stuff.. one hardens to rubber and one stays a bit sticky.. I would use the last one.. easy to correct.

Yeah.. and why were those stupid weights on the list? because they had to make them anyway! The question that comes up... HOW MANY fairlady's were driven with those (To me.. damn ugly... ) things on? 😮

If we take a look at the Original.... the fairlady in Japan... it has no overriders... it's a USA thing.. regulations rules rules.... rules... But hey... some like those blinds on the rear window, others prefer modern wheels on a classic.. everyone his/her thing.. 👍

I think i've seen more than 3-4 different "bumperettes" on usa cars.. personally i love the "without those bumperettes" look.. In Europe and Japan they don't have those extra "weights" on.. and.. i don't think it would matter when in a collision.. haha.. i left them off and sold them! 😉 Oh .. the holes for the bolts? (from where the bumperettes would sit.) there are original rubber thingy's for that!

You have to watch out you don't cross thread it.. first take of the line and screw the line into the brakecylinder then carfully make the bend and install the line. With a bit care you manage to make that corner.. 🙂 Always look for the R and L on the em.brake hook.. the bleed nipple should always be at the top.. otherwise you can't bleed them well. (i can't really tell from your pic that it's in the right way installed..)

Sometimes there were prankers that put some weard parts in a pile of parts that the new guy took from a car at the painters.. Always fun to see what they do with it! 😁 The part you show here ... i never seen such a thing..

Looks GOOD! I had a box ful of stuff i cleaned and took it to a firm here in s'Heerenberg Netherlands and when i went i grabbed a VERY dirty with tar painted very rare 280zx engine under shield and they cleaned it for me! see the result.. (sorry no pic of the tar painted one but you can see that the tar preserved the part well as you can see after 40+ years!! These shields are often disgarded after a repair or service.. haha, mine still had it on!! Tells me that the prev. owner took really care of it.

Hi, I don't know the dimensions but.. with a little mirror you can probably see the old holes were the mirror should go! Wind down the glass and i think you can see the (closed) holes were the mirror ones was. My 240z has no orig. mirrors so i wouldn't know.. would be nice if someone could tell were the 2 holes are measured from the edge of the top rail thingy.. 🙂 Maybe with a picture of it.. with a measuring tape on it.

I was laughing out very loud when i saw this Hihi ... but you finished the job! Yeah, soldering can be a challenge! In my mind the 2 spades were more wider.. maybe you could cut half the inside parts of them and bow the outer part of the spades to the outside and solder those to the 2 ends of the defect glass fuse. Use a soldering element of about 30-40 watt or a good regulated one otherwise you will break the glass.. again

In the 1980's i had to learn soldering some wires to ReVox A77 and B77 taperecorder heads.. just enough heat to make a perfect connection.. i soldered A LOT but those were the most problematic.. But after a few ones i got the OK from my colleges. plukked from the internet.. 😉 The wires need to have a nice blob of shiny tin on them.. A little to much heat and your really are F---ed! 🤬

I'm sure the cover is not gonna fit.. If i had no fuses anymore i would simply solder a new one (spade) onto the old broken fuse.. (maybe take a bit off of the fuse spades first..) So don't throw those old fuses away, they make a perfect platform to solder the new fuse to. (And no one else thought about this.. hihi.. 🙊)