dutchzcarguy

I had a set too but sold then as they required more wires (i have a usa cal. 240z) .. I have saved me a French 240z rear lights set! They have no back up lights (white) and will not need me to ad a extra wire! (Upper part is red and lower part orange.. or visa-versa.. don't no..) I don't know if i ever start to restore my 240z (for the third.. for me, for the second time! haha..) but then there is the hazard switch also that messes things up.. I know that the american car has a 9 wire and the euro has a 3 wire switch.. so there is also a lot of wire changes due.. The brakes light is wired into the indicators and make things complicated.. I don't now which electronic diagram i have in my 240z service manual but there should be 2 different ones at least.. If someone has these.. the US and EU/Japanese, ones that would be nice to have in this topic.

When you take a close look at your plate.. i think the 2 is the fake later placed number as there is a much bigger dent around the "2 " ? Like the dent around the 1 in the earlyer picture? When the Japanese worker hit it with the " 1 " on the bench i guess the indentation is deep and you have no dent around the digit.. When you "illegal" put in an extra number while the plate is on the car you make a much bigger dent and the digit itself has less deeper indentation.. You have to enlarge the picture to see it properly. I wonder if you can see something of a indentation in the paint behind the 1 or in your case the 2? Drill them rivet's out and get yourself 4 new ones! On the other hand those 2 cars could be from dec. 1970, the chassisnumbers are not that far from each other. Maybe Mr beck @Carl Beck knows If the chassisnumbers fit the dates.. (And that Japanese mechanic used some different height of letters/digits to identify these cars..) (My translator does not give a name for "slagletters/cijfers" so i like to know what you call these tools to hit with the hammer to make the letter/number on those plates! Thanks!)

Haha.. yeah, but that's not the problem.. i got a over 40 years old paintgun and i bet it's better than a lot of those new junk paintguns they sell on ebay.. I've got a AIROGRAPH paintgun with serialnumber made in england.. long time ago.. I get these kind of vid's more often and look at then a few seconds.. skip alot and saw him painting in a dusty garage.. that to me is a big NO NO.. so i skipped the rest of the video...

Yeah, video about how it's (NOT) done! hahaha...

No no... zedhead.. this is a feb (2) 1970's car were some moron thought i put a one (1) in front of it, while the plate is ON the car.. (would be spectacular when someone finds out the laquer under the plate is damaged only were the 1 has been hamered into it!) BTW... I'm just kidding... or AM I?? I ask myself: Are there more people with such a strange fat 1 in front of a "normal thin "1" or "2" ?

Nice job on the floor on the left on pic 233 Oh well i just forgot to weld it together.... pffff.... oh just cosmetic the seller says... pfff...

I know that the Americans title them in a month and call it a car from the day it's titled.. Overhere a 12-'70 car is .... a 1970's car! it's made (so it says ON IT !!) IN DECEMBER 1970! so from wich year is the car? 1970... but hey.. if you all are fine with calling it a 1971 car.. it's fine... everyone his own quirkiness / oddity ! When i bought my Datsun 240z from feb 1971 (It says: 02/71 on the plate) And i became a reg. for a feb 1971 car, simple.. This made me think of a special case here in the Netherlands.. A guy bought himself (in 2009) a 300zx made in 1984 but was for years not registrated for a licenceplate. It had become one in 1988 but the car was from 1984.. As cars of 25 years and older became (road-) taxfree* in 2009 he wanted that too.. Normally he would had to wait till 2013 but as the parts in the car and serial number were from 1984 he became a new registration certificate! (License plate stayed the same i believe) Now the car was legal to pay no longer roadtax.. But it still was a 1984 car... (With 1988 license numbers.. as we have here in the Netherlands consecutive numbers/digits on the license plate and when a series is full a new series starts) * (Nowdays it's 40 years overhere as everyone started to drive old Mercedes diesel... and made a mess of the enviroment here!)

Yes, if you put up more than let's say 1,5 rounds.. so just use a little not 3-5 rounds because that will isolate your sensor from ground. better use a drop of liquid loc-tite. You can use teflon (PTFE) tape but if the meter does not give any oilpressure you know you used to much tape 😉 !!

For as far i know the threads are conical (Tapered) just a drop of loctite is good enough. (And yes, the connection has to be electric conductive as the sensor makes some "earth" to the meter to make it come of the zero .. 😉 )

I think you have the same sensor there as the 280zx.. the one with those 2 contacts? They tend to leak right through the sensor and oil comes out on the contact-side! When they do this they are also prone to giving a lower pressure on your meter.. best to put a new one in..

When i looked for a new set for my 280zx, i bought me a set for a nissan patrol.. (the '80's type) they were exact the same type and model. Overhere the headlights are not that flat on a 240z, much more round.. and never seald beam. also they have a parking light of 5 Watt in there.. And a 280zx housing does not have a parking light in it.. only a H4 bulb with high and low beam.

That's why taking A LOT of pictures before taking something apart is so important.. (see your other question about the throttle linkage) with this one i can't help.. never seen some T- parts on a euro... i think.. 🤔

Maybe from a RHD 280zx.. on pic's here athrottle pivot from my LHD.. looks simular to yours.. only mirrored.

Also.. when i look at the ebay pulley.. how well would an old part like that "balance"? In the last pic of that old balancer you can see the "goo" come out of it and that should work after 40+ years... i have my doubts.. better buy a new one? They are around.. How important is a good balancer anyway? comes to mind... why are they so expensive?

Yeah i know, my 240z came from california and had 2 x 2,5mm steel floor parts.. weight about 25 kg (55Lbs) ! Hahaha.. "they" had repaired the floor with steel... reel steel haha, i took it out and there was about 50 kg steel on the floor, put some 1mm steel sheet in and that's 22 years ago this year.. It's still good but it needs some new paint under there.. maybe next year..

Sorry but that's funny..😂 Oh well, well begun is half done. And you are making a good start to open up every nook and cravice!

To say it mildly.... i'm not a fan.. I still have the orig. points and renew them every 20000 km (last time was even more) and my engine does not want to stop rev'ing.. i'm always surprised how easy it go's into the red.. (1971 240z orig.engine no revision yet!)

Just before 2000 i put in a new pair of contacts and capacitor and.. last year after about 25-30000 km i renewed the contacts just because it was time, they still worked and looked good.. I like that very much, a lot more than all that stupid electronic $^!# that you find in today's cars hahaha.. I still have to put my 280zx engine back.. and if i have any trouble with the electric stuff.. then i throw it all out.. put some carbs in it and a 240z ignition, it's much more reliable then that '80's ignition stuff!

I'm asking myself what you mean by that.. I guess i see that one of these days then..? Yeah your right, if the construction gets to weak then it's better to brace it.. I'm curious how far you go with the removing of parts...

2/3 or 2 to 3 more days? i bet it's the last one.. Btw.. do i see some welding in the floor, has it already had a new floor? (near the mid-tunnel.. right side of it..) In the mid-right of this pic..

A bit scary to see.. lots of scaffolding/bracing haha.. remember you have to make all parts fit before painting, then you can see what fit's what doesn't, you make a lot of braces but i think it just a lot of unnecessary work.. I hope the car.. what's left of it... doesn't scare you to much when it comes back from the blaster!

No.. they were tightly closed. The problem there was no fuel into the bowls because the needle valves were clogged or to old and have worn needles. I cleaned them with some carb cleaner but now the temps are high it has no problem to start as there is enough fuel.. maybe when the temps are lower the problem comes back.. then i need some new needlevalves for the early 71 carbs.. (Yeah 2 different ones..)

Sorry the link does not work.. (But glad you found the problem..) And did it smell? 😂

Whhahaha... they are standing there for some time.. a tree growing out the engineroom??? wow...

In the U.S.A. 👍 Over here in europe it did.. but not for a long time.. (I've got an early model s130120*** serial number and was delivered with a N42. Later on the 13 number/letter serialnumbers came in a s130. Mine has also no cat. or EGR. standard.) Yes, i get what you mean, there were no N42's on the 280zx in the states, but over here there were! that's what makes all those sites only mentioning american spec's worthless for us euro's, there were different set up's on z cars.. but hey, i don't have to tell you that! 😉