dutchzcarguy

I ones looked for a little truck like that.. but i ask myself (as they are not found in my country) do i fit in there with my 6 foot 3-4.. i think not? What do you think?

Yeah your right Alan,one cán see exactly were the mold was opened.. 😂 WE should just agree to disagree Alan, no problem at all! Mart.

I remember that i ordered for a 6,5 mm mill-bit then i would have a little room for the 2 component glue between the steel and the wood. (As my wheel had the open holes in the spokes it was a later wheel.) The rim was 6,3 mm that i remember distinctly.. this is 1/4 inch and a common seen thickness i think. Alan, i don;t agree with you.. i don't mind but i just don't agree.. If i look at the first "wood"picture in this topic at the lower part and make a magnification i can clearly see that the grain lays all over the place.. it's has many different directions. How was this wheel made so fast without hours of sanding and stuff? Mould is the answer i think? (Btw.. my wheel took me 36-38 hours, just the woodwork.. oh well i was slow maybe if i made 10 i made the last one in 20 hours..)

As i have my own made wheel in the pic on left... I've seen the stuff where the original wheel was made of and it was damn dangerous sharp those pieces i took off of the 1971 wheel.. If i remember correctly those 3 spokes of the wheel where welded directly to the ring of 6,3mm thickness.. (i did this in 2007) I always knew that it was made of sort of wood"powder" and a adhesiv.. what was put in a mold and looks / feels like wood but is not really shaped wood like my own made wheel out of 12 pieces. Hope (I didn't read it all) that i'm right because i really think that's the stuff on the wheel.. I could shout: ... Fake! PLASTIC!! hahaha

Not if you might have a early zx engine-head.. like the N42.. it does have a provision for a mech. fuelpump. As you can see here on the front of the engine side.. (On the right.) In the 280zx there are the 3 bolts that connect the powersteering pump.. behind the blue part is a big hole for the fuelpump

Today you can buy a infrared thermometer for a few bucks.. saves you a lot of guesssing..

Whay the fuelgauge has to do with high current escapes me.. but.. What i have seen in fuse boxes is that there are rivets in the copper strips on the underside and they sometimes get a bit loose and create a resistance that heats up the connection, every time a bit more untill things start to catch fire! SO CHECK THE FUSEBOX CONNECTIONS PARTICULARLY THE RIVETTED COPPER STRIPS !! 👍

I often do that to.. read what i wrote and correct..hihi.. On topic.. When you start up the car for the first time.. and go max in the aircon it's totally possible (i think) that there is a moment that the compressor switches off because the system freezes up! (Inside the car) To find the problem in your electronics you need a amp.meter (Ampère) and some luck and a lot of patience 🙂 ,,, When you can't find the culprit, you should switch off/take out parts of the circuit and look if the fuse still blows.. if so , the problem is still in the car. (Did you guys know that i did this sort of trouble shooting (in securitysystems) was my job for over 10 years hihi..) Btw, with taking out i mean of course switching/disconnect it.. not literally take all out.. 😁 (Hey Jeff, i just found out... "of course" are 2 words not one! 😉 )

Yup.. That's normal.. if you ask yourself why, the total power needed for indicating direction is lower than for the (all flashers flashing) hazard.. this makes that you need 2 different flasher relais. Did you know the power of those is different for a US or EU model flasher? Overhere it's (i believe) 2x21 Watt + 2x5 watt (Total=52 Watt) and for the Hazard it's 4 (!) x 21 Watt + 2x 5 Watt.. (Total=94 Watt) This apply's ofcourse only for the older cars.. todays cars have other systems i think? (Don't want to work on those!) You don't have to apologies yourself! It's not annoying or so.. Just thanks for trying to do a better job! I remember that i ones made a big glas fuse that was blown into a auto fuse by soldering a auto fuse over it, i still have it in my 240z glovebox.. not needed it for a very long time now.. (Btw.. Jeff, i couldn't find a single mistake in your Grammar! 😄)

Hihi.. don't.. please don't be angry with me but i'm here also to learn a bit of extra english.. (So correct me if i'm wrong but i wanted to "learn" you some hahaha) I think It's: to see what'S wrong and.. stay tuneD. Live and learn new thingS every day. (Hihihi.. i'm sorry for correcting already or is english not your first language?) ABOUT the fuses.. Zedhead is right.. and.. also, It could be a lose wire or one that's been damaged and sometimes makes a short to the frame. I've seen flashers that were rotten away on the inside and they blow fuses to. Most times you will find the problem near the flashers and other parts were there are connectors. Last place to look is the cables lying in the car on the floor and through the firewall, check your rubber grommets. Hope you find it soon because there is no problem in electronics worse then have a problem sometimes! (intermittent) One can take out a multimeter and measure but most of the time all is well and that's bloody frustrating, as an ex elec. engineer i know all about that!

There should be only cables on the back of the lock... never seen those on the side..

Very old brake flexible brakelines can clog up, every time u use the brakes the pressure in the brake cylinders (on the wheel(s) ) get released to slow and warm up.. new rubber lines are the only solution to this. I'm not saying that's the problem but you can check for it by lifting front wheels and let someone brake hard and you checking the wheels after brakes are off. (after relaesing the brakes the wheel should turn very easy.)

Could also be a bad connection.. somewhere.. I would start to clean every cable connection in the car as they are over 40 years old.. use some de-oxid in your connections and some special grease to keep the connections perfect. This is a few hours of work i think but keeps you from A LOT of trouble that bad connections can cause.

When you want to weld something, clean it thoroughly on both sides.. (in one of the last pics i see you did not clean the blue part..) It's not just that you can weld it much better, the fumes are toxic and you only have one set of lungs .. Never inhale those fumes of welding, aluminum is even (much) worse than stealwelding.. you really need a extractor hood. I often blow some compressed air over a weld when it's cooled down a bit, ( get some "clean" air at your workplace) always good to have the compr. air at hand... when something gets on fire you simply blow it out. Also always a fire-extinguisher at hand is standard. (at least a bucket of water.) And don't do it like this guy, welding near or under flammable stuff... WOW !!

I remember at school... teacher said: there are NO dumb questions, there are only dumb students that don't ask!

I had the toyota 2000 engine mixed up here haha.. (Because that one IS made by Yamaha.)

I will! I will! I want to see those old pic's..!!!! BTW, you chose a good example 240z for your new hobby, not my favourite color combination but hey it's your car! (I did say it yesterday... don't like the red interior, but that's just my taste hahaha...

So that would be the 6 cyl. 2 liter engine with the E30 head? (Looks like the 2,4 ltr engine of the common 240z) Or... are you talking about the 2 ltr (yamaha) twin cam engine ?? (also used in the Datsun fairlady 432?)

Also when someone knows what it really is, let us know! He wants us to believe that it's because the 240z has won the safari rally 3 times but did it? i remember something about the 280zx tripple crown.. What was that all about? winning the safari rally from 1979... ?? iirc there is a sticker that says tripple crown '79'80'81 (that came obviously later)

Someone was selling this.. I don't think it has ANYTHING TO DO with z-cars?? anyone?

When it's a "after market copy" product.. yes! (Please install original!) If you have a switch for 16 bucks i would not mess with the old one and put in a new.. unless this is a "as we said in the seventies" a jokytoky part (In that time meaning a bad, very bad japanese copy part.. now these days we mean a bad, very bad china part with that expression hahaha.. In the seventies the Japanese were doing what the chinese are doing now... only these days the chinese are much worse.. (Japan made also very good working copy's haha)

pfff upload of that answer took 10 ! seconds!! pfff

Sean, you can do this yourself, i've done this before on a topic of myself.. don't ask me how... but if you want to change it in a month or so you can! (older topic's it does not work anymore.)

I have a saying i use A LOT! Meten is weten, de rest kun je vergeten! Translated it's something like: To measure is to know, the rest you can forget! I've seen a guy with a new just returned engine from a known restorer, it did'nt fire up.. i told him to look if the timing was set up good (chain.) He got mad at me because the man who build this engine was a Mercedes engineer.. so he assumed the engine was good.. The best way is like often done in service manuals, start at the beginning and sort everything out, i don't want to say to do this always but if things get complicated you better start checking everything from the start, also things other mechanics did for you.

Ive asked myself the same question long ago.. But apparantly it's better to have some heat in the carbs.. it makes the fuel evaporate better? There is a short loop through the engine and intake (and inside radiator in your car) at first, and later on when the engine gets warmer the thermostat opens to cool via the big radiator in front of the car. I have heard that in warm/hot country's they do not use the carb heating lines.. They leave them off as they don't do much..