dutchzcarguy

I would never tinker around that ON the car, it can be very dangerous i think.. Only off the car and best to let someone with a lot experience do that. Because it's possible something get broken as it get warmer and you lose steering..😮 I think a good wheel alignment shop can solve these problems, even if you have a different set of shocks/springs/wheels (My shop did my car and it still tended to go a little bit to the right.. they said it's the tires that do this, the machines they used says it's straight as an arrow.. but we will see when i need new tires. The solution was.. they said: just change left front with right front wheel and look if it's over or steering to the left.. still not done this.. it's so small and.... seems to get even smaller every time i drive it..) Different tires, brands or sizes (with different threadpaterns) are illegal in our country on one and the same axel, but that's not your problem i assume?

Have you done also the Plus-pole connection? it looks like it's going to get the same problem.. Why all the tape? leave it off then you'll see the corrosion and you can spray the connection while doing a bit of maintenance! I bet you leave it.. untill one day .... the car stalls..

And did you first make a test (painting) on your wheelbarrel? (Or on a piece of cardboard) SO this time it went well i see! Is the car going to be green again or??

I would be a bit scared to do that.. (use vinegar on aluminium..) I got a old L24 that needs some restore work but i prefer to just use some WD40 and let that first soak for a week or so.. (I'm in no hurry, hurry is wrong with these kind of things!)

Bluez got the blue's 😉 ??

Hi, Did you have a look in the service manual? If it has a sending unit like a 240z it's on the frontside of the tank iirc.. and if it's like in a 280zx it's on top.. and can be accessed from the boot.. iirc.. 😉 So no need to drop the tank! btw.. pic's tell a lot more, i like to see the different sending units.. i know the 280zx one and find it interesting to see if a 280z has a different one.. (Ofcourse it's different why make it easy when you can make it complicated hey NISSAN?? pffff... )

I'm just surprised Nissan calls a interval switch-electronics box an AMP? With Amp i think of amplification... there is nothing to amplificate.. 😉 Only to interrupt.. its a INTERRUPTOR!

If you had taken a look at the pics (open the +155 pic picture..) you would have seen the paintshop with all the parts new painted.. does someone say that it's original paint? 😁

Yes there is.. passified golden color of a box that collects the signals and set then into 1 signal for the correct sign in your display.

Overhere the fuel IS over 10 dollar a gallon.. 2,40 euro per Liter! And that's Euro 95 with that $^!# in it (ethanol...) Happy that i don't need a car, i drive about a 1000 km a year.. (in differend z(x) cars!) That's what I DID !!! 😉 Lots of things you can buy in bulk and i just did that too!

OH !!! WE got many of those!! They ALL have plastic fingertops filled with auto sealer shooting tips! Don't your country have those to??

Exactly what i meant.. just to write it in english was just to difficult/ to much work Hahaha... 😆

IIRC It says in the bible... that's the servicemanual that you have to put some sealant on a few spots.. (I find it unbelievable that there are still people that put an engine together (I'm not saying you are!) without a service manual! You can acces it for free! These engines are not difficult but one WILL forget something or torck things the wrong way..

Over here were it's colder .. even we use 80W90 GL-4 and in a hotter environment i think it's even better/more recommended to use a thicker oil..

I used some locktite sealer on those paper gaskets, it sticks the gasket to one side and makes it more easy to put it all together, also the chance that it is sealed is very high. Just don't over do it, a little bit of that blue (silicone like) sealer out of a locktite tube is enough! (on both sides of the gasket.)

Nice car! These pics look like you took them out of the original brochure! If i had this car i would look under those plastic wheelhouse extrenders, i did this with my 300zxtt wheelhouse protectors and you can prevent any rust.. important because when it's emergine than it's to late! (I never saw some rust under mine luckely!) I also spray some WD40 inbetween those covers so it gets rid of the moist..

Also look twice(!) for airleaks in the system particularly that fat rubber hose after the airregulator, and in front of engine. Right inbetween those fat rings that are in that tube are the leaks! (A very minor leak can make the engine run very unregular.)

In the link i see some pics with silver colored contacts.. just clean those with a cotton cleaning towel or something.. and some contactcleaner. Never use a file on these contacts! If the silver is damaged it's gone.. Also, if you see sort of BLACK soot on these contacts it's silveroxide and... you can leave it on! SILVEROXIDE IS almost as good as silver itself (if you don't believe this, take a (micro)- Ohmmeter and test the contacts! Just put some contactspray on them and if this takes of a little of that back stuff that's okay! EDIT: Just googled it and had to change it in: conduction of silveroxide is almost as good as silver .. There was long a myth that silveroxide was a better conductor than silver.. but it's slichtly worse. (still better than copper i think..) Also most times when silver oxidises you get silversulfide not oxide.. it lookes very dark brown.. Also "google" said that silveroxide is not made (!).... but it's a black layer.. (very contradicting this!) anyway.. clean it with some contactcleaner that's not to agressive, a clean silver contact should emerge!

Maybe you can open it up and look what's wrong with it? I never looked in one but i always say: it's ALL repairable! haha, but against how high cost i don't know.. Put some pics of the inside here.. (Maybe it's just dirt stopping it from functioning..) It has only 3 contact, so it's just a switch between 2 positions, maybe the contacts are bad, in need of a clean?

There is a little black box on the throttle axle marked with:A22-602-421 , it's a switch.. it tells the "ecu" if the throttle is opened or not..

If you have room for it... (and as you take everything off the chassis) .. i definitly would go for a rotisserie! (Make one that is universal for cars!)

Hi, I used 10w40 always in L28 in 3 cars.. over 30 years experience and never another.. i think you can use 20W50 also because of the warm weather, but still u will use a bit more fuel because of the viscosity of the thicker 20W.. for lubrication i think you can stick to 10W40, makes very little difference. As fuel is expensive i would stick to 10W... Racing oil is also not necessary, throwing away your money.. unless you have a very modified engine. You could use some oil special for high miles engines if you have a lot of miles on your engine.. say over 200 kmiles..

That's a common thing! I found that more than once! It's some kind of modification? My 240z has it to! i drive it now for over 20 years with just one spring! Have you done a compression test on your engine? i would do one.. Maybe you have worn cyl. or pistonrings or sticky valves?

That's the best solution. If you don't know exactly how to install.. just ask google! 😉 or youtube!

We all have done something wrong i think to our cars in time.. i think you installed it the wrong way (?) ... The part does not look very used.. could be that if you sanded the pads a bit you could use it for many more miles as it did not make a very well contact to the rest of the clutch parts! The cupping will go away once the clutch is installed in the right way.. i think/hope.. (Use also some degreasing stuff because a clutch HATES grease!!)