dutchzcarguy

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I have seen a lot examples of blacked trim, and they all fail in a few years.. stainless is very hard.. and HARD to paint .. maybe chemical like i sayd above..

And then plastic-dip.. maybe someone has some experience with that? But i think it's going to be difficult.. Maybe this, .. there is some chemical that is used for passifying steel that gives a black end result.. but i don't know if this works on stainless steel! You could test it i guess.. 🙂 (could be a nice endresult a matt blackish lock!)

Yes!.. the best pump, not that cheap sheet metal impeller.

No, you don't need to remove the engine for that.. why should you? I would google for some stuff that cleans out your kitchen boiler.. i never had a engine that bad clogged.. get a advice of a good radiator shop, they have the expertise on this.. (ask for a descaler for your cooling system.)

Hahaha... 😂 we in europe do not work with Lbs's or Psi's but even i know that are 2 different worlds, yes 16 Psi.. that's about right.. (little over 1 bar/ato.) Have you cleaned out the complete engine waterworks? maybe there is a lot of dirt/limestone in your coolingsystem.

?? what is that.. you mean 1.6 ?? that is 1.6/2 minus 10 percent is .72 kg is 720mbar pressure?? i don't know what you mean with 16Lbs.. 1.6 pounds over pressure is much to low.. (mine has 1 or 1,2 kg = 1000 or 1200 mbar = 2,64 Lbs! (16 Lbs would be MUCH to high, your radiator can not hold 7,2 bar (ato).. whatever... it will explode.. ) Also does the clutch from the fan work correct? if you give it a good pull it has to stop in quarter or less turn.. when hot/warm.. when cold it's about half a turn..

Yes, but in the corvette there is room for a big radiator and it was made for it.. this is not the case with the old datsuns.. Okay i was a bit harsh on the alu radiator, but i get a bit angry of the fact that they are praised to be such good (Chinese made) rad's and they are junk.. a good radiator for €169 is junk.. I use a copper original in my 240z and it's in there for decades..

Yes, very nice .. but i ask myself if that clearcoat is strong enough.. i used 7-8 coats of boat lacquer, the one you would use on those hardwood boats..

Yeah thats a aluminium radiator.. i always drive over them and throw them as far away as i can! What you need is a radiator with a copper core. What is that with you guys and aluminum (Yeah, i left out the i... 😉 ) radiators? they suck! Yes i know copper is expensive but it cools way better! take a 10" strip of aluminium and one of copper. (same thickness and width) hold them in your hand, i take the aluminium one.. and we hold a lighter under the end of it and look who can hold on to the piece of metal the longest! haha.. (more safe to do this in a vice and measure with a infrared thermometer 😉 )

Hihihi.. in the early '80's i designed and build a A3 Flatbedplotter, and it used normal ballpoint pen's ! I build it from the ground up.. Even the programming in 6502 and basic. I controlled it with a commodore 64! (Has a 6510 processor) .. 38811 Basic Bytes free! HAHAHA!! I remember it had 2 steppermotors and it could make 13 steps in a mm on the paper..

I would put some primer/grounding paint and a layer of clear wax on the underside. That way you can always see in what condition your floor is.. The trouble with that black undercoating is you can't see anything until it's to late..

Hihihi.. you americans with abriviations... ty in advance.. had to think a 10 sec before IKWYM.. IT's : thank you in advance haha 🙂

Welcome on the site! you mean something like this? Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z Original Fuel Gas Cap 1970-76 *NEW, OEM* (totalzparts.com) And the short upper tube part you also asking for... i do have a set but.. not cheap.. For a 240z its a sort of small ring that is screwed to the plastic fillerhose, right? Not this one.. thats from a 280z(x) I do not have a pic of the 240z set made yet.. but it's in simular condition.

I took a look at this topic of mine and saw that i left out some pics i have from the engine.. Here some pictures of a 280zx L28 engine with only 120,000km on it (74500 Miles!) With some patience i managed to lay the chain on my vise and make a pic of it.. it's almost like a new chain after these km's.. i could put it back in and the sprocket of the timing is still on the number 1 hole! Almost no wear on the chain-guide.. And YES these ones have gone back in the engine.. the rubber was very good, it was tough but very deformable! (I find that unbelievable! After 42! years!!) (i keep the new set for next time....) Haha.. the other end of the dipstick... you dipstick! 😉 (yeah a 240z on the background...) Some pics of the deck.. Nice cleaned out headbolt holes and a new headgasket on.. Oilstrainer.

You should take a look at Trev's blog then! He made a lot of good vid's about making metal parts! Thats were i learnt a LOT !!

Ofcourse you mean: they come on at 220 and off at 180 .. And please put a F after it as we euro's don't know Mr Fahrenheit.. we use Mr Celcius hahaha.. (That is always fun.. celcius Fahrenheit.. kelvin.. but the most fun is foot and meters.. there were made A LOT of mistakes.. someone bought a boat in the states, thought it was meters and found it very cheap.. he got the boat... in foot... ) (people with more examples, make a extra topic, don't want to make this one a mess..;-) ) Btw, nice solution to use another th.housing for a extra th.switch!

Hi, Not the ideal spot to put the sensor, better would be just on the radiator itself.. As the fans are getting power with relays you can use a simple sensor to activate the relays. Personally i'm not a fan of electric cooling.. the original cooling fan uses (a lot) direct mechanical energy, yes, but the electric ones use a LOT of electric energy that our s30 cars are not made for the electric energy needed is not calculated in the power of the circuitry A good mechanical temp clutch fan is the better / most reliable solution. (also clean and no wires and other electric parts needed)

Yeah thats what i used! Didn't know the name.. Yeah thats the name.. a flairing tool, one needs one that has a good grip on the line to make the flair right!

Thats another advantage of the copper alloys as well i have some stored over 20 years (warm and dry garage attic) and they still look like new.. it does not oxidate much.

Yeah i did that last month but last week i needed the car (after a stand still of 3 weeks.) and it fired right up and after about 5 seconds of running on the choke it died.. i suspected the bowls were just emptied. Did not look at the bowls just got me some air from my compressor and bluw them open.. then the car fired right up and i was able to drive it for 10 min. without any problem! So i think that there was some fuel left in the carbs.. but the pump could not fill the bowls again.. As i have a few new pumps and no valves (new) i think i just put in a new pump and be done.. sorry for getting a bit.. a lot.. off topic here!

Over here (and there i guess!) you can buy the line by the eh.. meter/yard/foot.. whateverrrr.. and cheap. i modelled the line after the old one. Once you got a tool to make the ends it's very simple to replace any line and for low price!

I don't know what Fedhill material is.. but i would not use stainless lines, it's much to hard and cause leakes.. I used sort of copper alloy lines, they are not expensive and a softer material and make perfect connections. you need a tool to make the protrusion.. or whatever it's called at the end of the line.. you can get those in a toolshop for a few bucks.

I once cleaned the valves and they were not even dirty or so.. i think they have a bit of wear.. I will check the fuelpressure when i can and then i know what parts i need to replace, Thanks Mark!

I have a question regarding these old pumps, i got a 50 year old pump on my 240z and i asked myself.. now in this pandemic i use my cars less and less and the 240z starts right up and then after a few sec's suddenly stops.. i then need to clear the carb needle valves (just blow some air as the carbs are vented to the airbox) and the fuel gets in the carb and the car fires right up.. (after a few weeks same story again..) Can it be that i just need to change my fuelpump.. does anyone know what the pressure should be of such an old mech.pump? I think to replace the pump anyways as it's antique! Or are my carb needle valves getting old and need new ones? If i drive the car once a week it 's no problem... also asked myself if that damn "good" fuel 🙄 we have these days is the culprit? (no lubrication in the needle valves.)