dutchzcarguy

Glossy finish... normally a good thing ... on paintwork... Not so much on a cylinderwall! The cross hatching is for lubrication of the piston and.. is very poor now i think.. You need to take the pistons out and restore the cylinders.. or buy another block that has them and has a good compression.. Normally a wall is still good after 200000 miles provided that there has been good maintenance i think.. your engine had a lot more miles or bad maintenance.. not sure.. Here i have a pic of a wall with 120000km on it or 74,500 Miles.. (From my 280zx, just a clean up and new seals needed.) Maybe you can restore these with special tools and new rings? somebody chime in with experience? Some pics of your walls would be nice!

Where is Here? 😮

One of the reasons that i'm here is i learn some english... (I hope!!) do i see that right/correct? It says: "Dealer to whom delievered" ? ... that must be wrong hey? (Just under the black DATSUN on red..) But don't worry i find your work fantastic! Very nice, AND you know it.. it's in the details!! Again, it's a beauty! 👍 👏

I looked in my sellar and found the part in a bag with the part number and packing sticker with date! found a old price of 68 euro? Btw.. it's a bit greenish yellow and .. i counted the 16 teeth. partnr: 32703-22000 bought in 1999!

Haha.. hoarding.. 😂 Some z-people called me a hoarder... @bartsscooterservice I did not know that the yellow one was the original for the 240z! Thanks! I got one brand new so i cherish that one!

It's at 1450 dollars now... (that pile of z junk..) but i saw something else a Datsun/nissan 720 1984 that would be a nice winter car.. (And a good car to get my firewood haha.) Copart USA - Online Live Vehicle Auctions - Bid & Win

I threw them complete in the bucket with al the other bolts and came out fine.. that is without the (already perished) lower rubber thing.. I installed them without that lower rubber block and works fine..

Oh then your only... about a 1000 Miles off.. 😂 BTW.. as a electronic engineer i always have trouble with saying a 280zx has a ECU... it's a ECCS.. a analog computing unit.. it has no "clock" in it and no processor... thats also why it's so much more reliable then a ECU (ECCS= Electronic Concentrated engine Control System)

Always a problem as every flatscreen monitor is different, but it's a bit to yellow? on the 240z (on the rear fender) it looks the correct color .. on the second to last pic) It needs just a little bit more brown?

Yeah it's a pain to get the nut on there.. i've seen some rubbers that are a bit (Half?) as big as i see on your pic.. that pointy part i've never seen on the originals maybe if you cut those off (near the eye ot the sway bar? (try first only the upper one.) (I had the same once on a 280zx and last time i bought some with extra long thread on them so i did'nt have that problem.. after installing i can take of the thread thats sticking out.. (haven't done that yet.. it's not in the way..))

HAHA.. yeah... mine came off on the parking near the supermarket.. i left it flapping on the way home.. drilled some fast self drilling screws right through it and.... now after a year they are still in there! 🙈 oh well.. maybe in a year or 2... Get this.. overhere all cars need a MOT we call it an APK ( algemene periodieke keuring) except !! cars of 50 years and older !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hahaha... the rules are crazy if you ask me? This means a 240z of 50 is no longer needed to get checked by a technician... oh well i look after it but i'm not a "APK"Inspector!

Hope that stuff has nothing to do with the CHROME-6 stuff that was used here in the Netherlands on trains... there were a lot of people very sick from chrome-6 in 2015.. still are.. Chrome in paint is.. i think a lot of trouble when you need to sand it or any other kind of work on it is done.. It is confermed that you will get cancer of that stuff...

If Mikes are miles.. 😉 thats just a 1000 km a year.. i drove those as well in my 240z every WINTER! and last winter the left fender came loose.. (lower rear end) it was rotten round the bolt i guess.. the car needs a resto after it had one in 1998.. I think thats normal wear on the fenders.. after the 280zx is ready maybe i make some new parts for the 240z fenders. sandblast the corner and repair whats necessary. (Yeah i drive a 240z in the snow, better than a 300zxtt, that would be a pity.. also a 240z chassis is much easyer to protect and repair if necessary. Also a 300 would be all but problems due to his weight and a 240z is lightfooted and a blast to drive in the snow!)

i had a few of those stoppers in my pile to be passified .. and came out wonderful. The plastic stays on, and the springs were also fine. Euro 280zx 1979 has these..

I think i leave the valve out... also helps the heater to work even better i think..? And no chance it's gonna leak!

Yes... you are right.. but i now remember it correctly .. i hope.. It was like in the picture but the bottom (in pic on the 4 o'clock side) it was sort of white plastic and sits inside the copper part.. And that was the place it was leaking a little. once in a while a drop.. If you had a pic from the underside it would show the plastic bit.. mind you it was 30 years ago i had that 1980 car.. (these last weeks i did'nt work on my '79. but i could look one time if the valve underside is plastic at the 280zx i have now..) Looked on internet and...yep, here you can see the plastic part i was remembering... it was leaky right there!

Very good question and just in time for me because i'm almst ready to put my 280zx N42/N42 engine back in my engineroom. My car has a N42 head (280zx) and is cooled as in the lower part of your picture.. i ask myself the same question.. Is that valve needed.. I know that in my first 280zx 1980 eu modell it leaked just a little bit.. (very few drops sometimes on the starter..) it was made of plastic i remember.. If i could leave it out, i would! (Less parts less problems can occure) The only thing i can think of is when you don't use the heater there is a bit less water movement in the rear end of the head... as i see a N42 on the 280z (the same one as i got in my 280zx orig EU modell) i think it's not a problem to plumb it like a Z..

That 6 is a typo i'm sure.. the small 240z brake booster's are 7 inches or 178 mm. diam.

Hey !! Ryan... How are you? something done to the 240z or 280zx lately? We all know it's not a easy job so let us know, when we / where we, can help!

Yeah.. i asked myself.. if thats the case, but then the beam just over the muffler in the chassis should also have been parallel to the muffler? O Well anyway... your totally happy with it and thats the important thing! It has become a beautiful car!

Am.. i.. gonna say... something about it... I don't think they did a good job.. the damper is to long and had to be installed on a angle and... and.. now it hits the bottom of the car.. (at least it looks like it's on a angle?) Does the exhaust not make a clunking noise against the reserve wheel thingy... whatever it's called.. ? 🙄 Your car has become a beautyful car and now there is a crummy exhaust under there..(sorry again but i took a day and ask myself if i had to say this and yes...... i sayd it.. 🙊)

on carbs yes that works.. i think you should find a lot of threads about this on this site.. It's known that the orig FI system does NOT like a bigger cam, it just does not work very well because the system is not tuned to a bigger cam.. you need a aftermarket FI system that you can programm. like mega squirt or something.. (I have no experience with those..yet..) If you have a L28 injection then you could put some Hitachi (L24) carbs on it and tune it to the bigger cam and get a nice increase on the horsepower..

BTW.. in the early '90's i looked at a fiches machine a the Nissandealer and had 4-5 different springs to choose from.. Dutch were different from Frence ones and American springs were softer and again... different.. There are a lot of threads around springs maybe read those first before you buy something..

My '71 240z had the orig. US type 240z springs in the rear and were very soft... i replaced them with euro 240z rear springs and can now load 150kg ( about 330lbs) without the exhaust on the ground! The wire thickness of the euro version is thicker.. they are also a bit stiffer. Also know that the front springs are different! One is stiffer than the other for as far i heard.. 600 dollar for a new set is reasonable i think... Look if they have different stifness in the front ones! then you know if they are really the right ones.. (Look in the serv.manual if a '73 240z has different stifness springs in the front!) SO... I looked it up for yah... The wire diam front is both 10,6 and coil diam. is 100mm coil turns 10 and coil eff turns is 8,5 spring constant is 1,48kg/mm (for both sides) now: !! Free length left is 373,5 mm (22.72 inch) and right hand side is 386mm (23.56 inch) !! (where would we be without a service manual hey???) So there is a big diff between length of R and L front springs.. Looked also for you on the rear springs, they are the same (L & R) and have: wire diam 11,4mm coil diam. 100mm 10,65 windings free hight of spring is 381mm and installed 225 mm spring constant 1,85kg/mm this came from my (euro/US?) 1971 serv. manual. i often wonder if we have different service manuals.. i do have the mm and inches in it also Kgm and ft-lbs ... so it's for euro and american service-men? ...

A comment on ebay: by gilps45-70Mar 05, 2020 GUN GREAT REGULATER RUBBISH the gun itself is a great bit of k TO STOP AIR it BUT THE PRESSURE REGULATER IS RUBBISH ITS PLASIC AND IT WLL NOT TIGHTEN UP ENOUGH TO STOP AIR LEAKING ,HAD TO BUY ANOTHER WITH A METAL BODY ITS A PITY IT DID SPOIL A GOOD ITEM Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New | Sold by: mdabitec