dutchzcarguy

WHAT?? is he saying on 0:12- 0:13 sec..?? it changed the what?? the wohww? the wuwww..??? HUH ??? i can't understand 😉 Put 0:12 - 0:13 on replay it's funny! BTW... how he puts a 240z on a 2 post lift.... if it was my car.. i would have kicked the guys ar** really REALLY HARD! (This car must have new (stronger) floors otherwise you would destroy the car, orig. floors could not hold the car that way that well!)

I would go back to metal forsure! My painter (pro) advised to go to metal because you would be working on a very old surface and you don't know what it's going to do with the new paint chemicaly.. I would not gamble! take it off! Use a 60 sandpaper on a rotary it go's fast. other painters say do not use chemical stuff to get it of because you have to clean it very well and then still you find it back in the new paint.. they say.. 🙄

You use a FET? I would go for a thyristor.. And a fat heatsink.. 👍

In the first post you talk about a mechanical fan. I'd stick to that it's simple and reliable.. You could like i did open up the old clutch mechanism. These old clutches dry up and need just a little bit fluid to work again.. i personally opened a 280zx fanclutch (Clean it thoroughly first.) and used a bit of wd40 to get the mechanism working and closed it up.. you don't need a lot of fluid.. (Nice to see how the fluid locks the mechanism as it gets hot.) When installed it should go no further then 1/2 or 3/4 round when you give it a good try to make it go round. The clutch engages more and more as temperatures rise .. normally on room temperature the clutch is disengaged but it still brakes a lot.. When hot you could stop it but you'll need a piece of wood and you might brake the fan blades that tough it will get. (So test it when off and hot it will turn very difficult.) When your gauge stays under 3/4 hot then thats oké... i think..? At normal driving the meter should be half way though..

Example of a top bearing that's on top of the strut (lower and top half can turn independently. This is the other side..

If these are the fronts.. why is there not a bearing in the top that can let the top rotate? (these bearings are bearings that are not like the wheelbearings but rotate top and lower part .. (i don't know how to say this on an other way..) Nice picture drawn but the topbearing shoud be drawn in an other way.. there should be a top and lower half with ballbearings in between. Again, nice drawn.. you'll figure it out i'm sure! 😉

So... just tripple it? Yeah.. Restaurations take a lot of time, always longer than you thought it would.. some take forever..😵

Thanks for your work! Nice pic's! So no details on the rear lights.. I always found it strange that all japanese and euro cars had the 3 colors and France was, as far i know, the only country with red and orange/amber rear lights.. ( I stil got a set of those somewhere in stock..hihi..)

7 pic's on ebay.. none of the rear lights.. does not matter not going to buy more cars.. or recreation-containers (caravans) 😉

Thats a euro (!) 260z 2+2 ... (280z was never a euro version made of.) I'm curious.. does it have the french taillights ( as majorette is a french brand) So it should have red and orange taillights not the white reverse lights besides the orange blinkerlights? Top half is red, lower half is orange.

Try.. "we say overhere" ... is what the doggies do..!! 😉 You just repair that! Not trying.. just be confident and DO IT! You'll get there! We all know it's a lot of work but in the end you get it done.

Hi Scott welcome here.. I sure hope you used some resistors with that test otherwise you will blow those injectors strait to heaven! A direct 12v from the battery is most times fatal.. a good way to test can be a 9v battery pack the very small ones you find in a remote or so.. these can deliver enough energy to test the injector, but not enough to burn them.. I advice you to FIRST read a service manual of the s130, you can find these on this site.. Then.. why should your exhaust manifold be defective.. first take it of and check for deformation with a strait edge.. there are ways to make it strait again.. good luck.

That was a much better looking car then this ugly silvia! My first car was a datsun (sunny) 140Y coupe.. looks alot like your B210 coupe! 😉 That silvia.. what a design... i find it ugly .. seen from any angle..

Real Chrome stays shiny, where ss has to be polished more often to get it shiny.. So.. they chromed stainless steel ?? are you sure that it's chromed stainless? Not just stainless with a high percentage of chrome IN it? Do they use copper first and nickel? otherwise the chrome is not gona stick very well.. On the original steel bumpers there should go copper first then nickel and at the end chrome.. THEN you have a proper chromed part that will last a very long time. If your bumper is only 700$ then they made a shortcut.. iow. it last not long.. half work.... esspecially with chromework, you get what you pay for!

Haha.. yeah thats cheap!!! Overhere we pay 900 EURO! for just one remake of 1 Bumper!! (But then it must be said: it looks perfect..) (btw.. i got 4 sets of original(!) bumpers left.. BUT they need a new layer of chrome to be perfect..)

I Hate it when that happens.. When you pay a lot of money for basically junk.. I know we complain sometimes about prices but good stuff costs money.. i bought some new original ones for 80-90 euro a piece and they are now 20 years old and are still looking good! Old bumperrubber can be rejuvenated bij soaking them in a bucket of hot water with a good amount of washing machine detergent! leave them in it for a week.. or 2! You'll be surprised what comes out/off of these rubbers! and how nice! Ofcourse they have to be in one piece without cracks, very little cracks are gone after a good wash.. (It helps to heat up the water during the week of soak.. can be done with a heating element out of an old deep fryer.)

Thats with the internet, almost everything can be found.. if you know how you have to describe it !!

1 is on the right spot ( to the front of the car.) but than it's ... going left in circle 153624. that pic. is faulty..wrong.. not good haha.. it's 1-5-3-6-2-4 fireing order.

Hahaha... thats 0.25 mm overhere! 😉 I have to react to this haha... I once worked with studio equipment, still have some high quality stuff laying around and using some still after 34 years! (Look it up a revox b215 is one of those machines) I was once at the factory in switserland and they make capstanshafts on a machine that measures 1/1000 of a millimeter! (For big taperecorders like the ReVox PR99, Studer A800 etc.etc.) so 0,001 mm exact. They make the shaft and then have to let it rest for a year in storage. Then after about a year they put it in a machine that measures it and if it's out of tolerance ... it's scrap! Her you see a machine made in switserland (Possible also in Germany (Studer revox still in Germany activ.)) The capstan is a shaft that gives the speed to a tape, it's that dark shaft just peaking out on top of the beige pressureroller. A recorder like this is as big as a jukebox and costed a million swiss franks and thats about $600.000,- This was in the 1980's.. today they are much cheaper..

Hey Ryan, Nice to see you do things in mm it's more accurate (Only my opinion!! Haha before i get half of the people here all over me! ;-)) But.... Take a look at vid on 7:54 min. you made yourself a lot of work.. Take out just the small part that is bad.. you also cut into the corners to far and also in the plate that is behind the piece you tried to take out.. You should also stay away from the door opening, if not very necessary! (Later on it will get you into trouble with the heat of welding.. all unnecessery!) Also if you take out a rotten piece, make the corners round you'll see that it's much easyer to weld a round corner than a 90 degree corner! (Use a big drill in corners) I did not see the whole video as i can't concentrate for a long time.. First blast the car to work on clean steal, then weld all corners and edges and stuff and then you can repair the bigger flat (read floor) pieces.. Maybe read a book on how to restore a car.. And the last thing i wanted to say.. you have to work much more precisely, again that part you took out of the dogleg, it's a biggy.. As the standing steel plate inside is completely rusted away you might think about it to take it completely out.. the dogleg.. But get it blasted clean first... i see a lot..lot...lot of work here.. (Ive done that myself once.. my car you can lift it on the doglegs (as it supposed to) it's strong inthere..)

Does anyone know what the 3 green one red and one yellow dot on the tires mean? As i sometimes put tires on..(in the past just few times) i know/think? the red dot is the light spot of the tire and should be placed near the ... what you call it.. the tire valve? (Learning lots of english here!!! 😉 ) I'm particular interested in the green one's as there are 3 !! of them on 1 tire.. Yellow is the heaviest spot of the tire? (as it is exactly opposite the red spot.)

My June 1986 book about L20-L24-L26-L28 engines service manual says ( On page EM-11) if the cylinder has worn be-yond the wear limit use cylinder liner. (So it works for any L20 L24 L26 or L28 !) Interference fit of cylinder liner in cylinder should be 0,08-0,09 mm (So i guess they get in with force and a heated block and frosen cylinderliners.. or what? They don't elaborate..

No no.. always smart to ask then not to ask.. you can always learn something.. For instans that i don't know how to write forinstans? and no i don't know how to get off those gaskets 🤣

Please be careful with welding a tank.. ive done that but i filled it with coolant.. so it does not explode in your face.. Others have done it by blowing constant air into the tank then also there is no danger...they say.. Top tip? : I would make a small hole in the top of the tank and take the dent out with a piece of wood from the other (later on) invisable side of the tank! 😉

Hé JIM... (Zup) Early morning? The car is Orange! Hihihi.. i'm a fan of orange.. When i hear of you i always think of whiskey hahaha 😂 probably because there is JIM bean and jack DANIELS Whiskey hihi.. To the JIM that started this topic, Welcome to the site, you'll find a big international all over the world community of z fans here!