dutchzcarguy

There's a link in the first post were you can see the whole car.. It's a nice car but.. i've seen some Dutch 240z cars and they were all rustbuckets due to the weather here.. moist and salty.. It's better for cars to stay in.. in the winter in the Netherlands.

Bingo !! After the rotten away wheelhousing they welded in a non original one! It's not round like the front one.. The lip is wrong also.. Congrets! Jim! Evidently much to square! In this pic you can see the fault really clearly..

Strike 2! NOPE... Having no rear sidemarkers is standard in europe! Yeah.. i just was counting.. 6 hours earlyer so your first reaction was about quarter to 8... your not awake yet! 🤣 I saw the problem instantly.. it's big!!

NOW... concentrate on the shape... yes but this time the shapes on the 240z... Jim is looking into the garden.. 🙈 You meant the 3th shot.. hihi..

Nope.. ( I don't know if it's a original..) The thing thats wrong with the car is much bigger than a mirror.. Compare the side of the car with the side of your imaculate 240z car.. you'll see the big mistake!!

Today 7 March 2021 a 240z came up for sale on the dutch marketplace.. ( marktplaats.nl) At first glance a nice car ... but can you see whats totally wrong with it? The flashers are original euro/dutch as are the bumpers. (Wheels are 260z but look very good on it!) On this pic.. it's obvious that the car was (like almost any other original 240z once was) a rustbucket due to the Dutch weather) CAN YOU SPOT IT? Euro km Counter.. Only the seats are 260z? Here a link.. ≥ Datsun 240Z Nederlandse auto - Oldtimers - Marktplaats.nl

I once had a friend with also arthritis and stuff.. problems. He had alot of air tools that way he could tinker still on his S-class Mercedes..which was a big hobby of his. You could do that also. Me myself.. i just turned 60.. I've got so many problems (Heart, spine, knees, neck, tailbone, thyroid gland, hands etc..) i also have days that i don't do a thing.. Once a specialist sayd to me i had cancer.. than it went away.. after half a year or so i got it again.. went to Radboud (a very knowledgeable university hospital) again and again it was the same cancer.. (Just on another spot on my scul.. and.. it went away.. this came and went another 4 times over.. These last years i got a problem with my lymf nodes and told a specialist what kind of trouble i got.. and the answer was: Sorry but thats impossible! (I'm still angry about that stupid answer!!) At the end of the day you just have to think: there are people who have even worse problems... i do...

Hahaha.. i still do that! ( on local second hand marketplace..) but these last years not really much comes up.. It's been more than 5 years that i could buy some nice rare parts for z or zx.. Good (!) Parts are becoming rare and expensive .. I personally never had to persuade someone to sell me the part(s).. but thats because i only reacted on their adverts.. 🙂

Yes, they are the right points.. The many bad stories are because the middle steel plate that normally is in there has rotten away and the sides colapse easely.. That is not gona happen when you have restored your chassis well.. I totally agree (i already started the discussion with a smile on my face you know..) And your right, it's weight is low but it will get heavier. You know, when i see a car for sale and it's on a lift like that, i already don't trust the chassis.. It's probably rotten away inside..

Most people are thinking stop! (this discussion) but i keep saying this : those are NOT the official jack points of a (240z-280z) s30 chassis.. so use the right spots. Later on when you have a flat tire the chassis has to be strong enough to use a jack anyway! Use some rubber blocks with a slice in it for the chassis edge. It's gona be a beautiful car, good job!

At first you did this: And then desided to go original! Yep i like your wheel! You've done a good job on it! 👍

As you wil need a new steering wheel, you could also cut the aluminium part off with a grinder just don't touch the steel axle.. (stop just before the axle with cutting, then stick a flat screwdriver in it from the front and brake/crack the last part. (USE NO HAMMER 🙂 )

No one mentions the painters work? (who should be ashamed) In the first video (car exterior) on 1:22min. you can see 3! different colors of silver on the fenders and hood.. (Maybe the left fender is like the hood (if you look from another angle) the same but the right fender is much darker. as is the headlightbucket. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-86/

I think you can better invite someone in than to go with a half a car to someone? Also.. if you can't get it off heat the thing with a hairblower and then you can ice the axle with cold spray, you can buy that in a can and spray the axle to minus 42 degrees Celsius.. (No i don't know Fahrenheit but it's very cold.. 😉 ) A paint burning heating gun would also work but dont make the cable in the axle (from the horn) to hot! I use a hairblower and shut the inlet with my hand a bit so it will give more hot air.. keep checking the hot air with your hands..

Use a puller ( a pully puller..) when you can't get it off.. NEVER HIT IT WITH A HAMMER YOU WILL DESTROY THE BEARINGS!! (Like that dumb arse of a painter of mine.. (the first one..) see my "restoration of a 280zx 2+2 1979 slick roof ) I'm still in need of a new bearing thanks to that unprofessional idiot..

Maybe the choke is "hanging" thats causing the high rev. could be lots of things.. high rev can also be caused by a vac. leak.. If you think you see a leak spray some brakecleaner on it, if the rpm changes.. thats a leak. Watch out that you don't burn down the car, don't do it on a hot engine. take precautions..

Thats a failing resistor in your ignition circuit.. for a test you may shortcircuit the resistor you find near your coil.. I bet you it will stay on! Get yourself a new resistor, or repair the failing contact on the old one!

Good! Start your own resto topic! It's nice to see your own restoration steps later when you are finished! (And we like also to see some pictures of your progress!)

I looked at the website you gave us.. and asked myself... look at the hides there in this pic.... HOW BIG ARE THE EURO COWS???? 😂 btw if i look for alcantara, it's not on that website.. at the moment i don't need alcantara it would be nice to know where one can order some.. never mind..

I assume you mean that the car would be more valuable. Yes and no.. Many people like the originality and others are more pulled to the 5 speed although thats not original on your home market.. (Just my opinion..)

For us euro guys it would be nice to hear the name of shop in Germany?

I told it before but a euro 240z HAS ORIGINAL a 5 speed gearbox with a 3,9 (i believe) : 1 diff. The type Is a Fs5C71B gearbox. In the Netherlands the 240z came a bit later then 10-1969.. it was more halfway 1970? I don't know if the Fs5C71A gearbox was ever in a 240z in the european market.. could be.. Why there is no difference in price.. i don't know.. i only know that i would pay more for an original euro car with 5 speed. Much! more rare..

Sometimes our weatherman does warn for that, after a long period of drought there is alot of rubber on the road and with the first rain it's a slippery slide.. It does not matter if you have new or used or very old tires you will have to be careful.. I always anticipate alot.. you have to with toyo tires from 2005-08 or so haha..

Don't think its black, it's like on your pic. a good thing to do is a ceramic layer on it, costs about 125 dollar i hear.. keeps the heat out of the enginecomp. VHT has the cast iron look paint silver.. but is not as durable ofcourse. Original they were as on your pic i'm almost sure.

Not from the MC, it;s from a leaky booster, you prob. hear it at best from inside the car near the brakepedal.. Revise your headcyl. and the brake booster..