dutchzcarguy

Zed... Your funny Hahahaha!! Take them off at the head! Flattops are more for the professional technicians! Get yourself some roundtops, MUCH easyer to Adjust! The manifolds for the flattops is completely different from a roundtop manifold, roundtops are never gonna fit so take it of and work on them on the bench.

You asked how to empty these carbs, you can get yourself a empty soap dispencer out the kitchen and unscrew the top and put the tube down the carb (or brakefluid container when refreshing the brakefluid for example) and the soapbottle is good to catch the oil out of your carb! I also use this trick to clean out the powersteering tank (On other cars) , You replace this ATF partial every year and the fluid stays nice and clean as you always change a part of it.. and you don't brake any bolts or get leaks of changing the oil! 😉

A pic of those special spade type and brandname would be nice as i'm also need some new ones on my tank meter connection. Btw, you have ( I see) a europe and JDM tank in your #21 comment.. Last week i bought a almost as new tank but it has a few more outlets/air exits on it as it is a american fueltank. (i seal those of as my car has already a (leaky) euro tank.)

Hihi.. btw, i;m NOT from Finland.. I'm from the Netherlands, you know, that little country with the best "chips" IN THE WORLD..? Back to the cars.. I would hope so, otherwise you wouldn't have a clutchpedal! There ARE differences in s30 (Manual) pedalboxes.

There was a belgian that said he went to the SUN! I asked.. didn't you get burned? NO he said.. we went at night..

BTW.. this is the correct(er) vid to your f-ked up not metric system hahaha... better late then never.. This guy is hilarius.. from finland.

And the answer is.... YES.. (At least between 260 and 240 has different pedalboxes!)

Maybe another swapped wire? A other solution to the problem could be replacing the electronics that was hit by the problem with the switched wires. curious what it will be! This by the way is EXACTLY THE PROBLEM WITH TODAYS CARS, they have lots of electronics in them and therefore lots of problems, i'm sure they don't get driven for over 50 years like our z's.. 😉

As yours has the intermittent wipers, it has a circuitboard with electronics.. could be there is a defect transistor that makes/has a shortcut and due to that the elec. motor keeps spinning. That's what i would look for after the pinched wires.

My simple answer.. A oilpump just needs to be driven by the engine.. there is no "timing" involved. The pressure the pump makes is going up with the engines rpm's.. that's normal, if you have a warn engine the oilpressure can get to low.. a good check for that is looking at the oil coming on the casmshaft when you turn the engine rpm's as low as 500 rpm, the cam should stay lubricated at that enginespeed, check it through your oilcap opening when the engine is idling. Your car is probably idling at a higher rpm as it is a automatic.. About that auto.. if you change to a 5 speed change the diff as well.. as a auto has a 3,5 diff of even 3,3? A 5 speed needs a 3,7 or3,9 otherwise you use a lot of clutchplates as the 1st gear becomes very long.

Hihi.. yeah that's a L.E.D. (Light emiting diode) as it probably chinese junk, they die.. I got a bulb in my car and after 53 years it still works.. put the standard bulb inthere it will work for many many years.. I;m not against led's but just against cheap junk led's.. 😉

Who told you it's a LED? If it was it would probably work.. as LED's (I'm talking about the good old led's that where around 40-50 years ago..) have a long lifespan. Normally there are candescent little lightbulbs in there. Someone with small hands and Patience can change them. maybe lying up side down in the car but it's in the blind doable.

Well if you are done with laughing, take a look at this comedians answer.. hahaha...

I Sure hope so! (I want to be in time with my solution! 😉 ) Don't even try to weld it up side down.. it's going to be a mess even when your a pro welder it will be very difficult.. better take a strip/piece out of it and make the weld from the top! (Clean the paint around it thoroughly) Also use a cotton towel that is moist to cool every spotweld you do.. take your time and it will be good! Use 0,8 mm steel.. sorry don't know what thickness it is in your measurements..)

YEAH!! That's the one!!

Hi John, If you can get those off in one part, you put them in a small container (glass) and put a lot of clothes detergent and some hot 60c water and leave them there for a week they will get unbelievable nice and soft. During the week you can heat this pot with stuff in the magnetron.. not to hot but 60 degrees celcius is fine.. you WILL be surprised! Also there is someone that makes all(most all) those rubbers of a 240z.. can't remember his name.. he is named more than once on this site.. sorry..

Hihi.. my car does not have that roller for over 25 years at least! btw.. is that the culprit why my window comes (at the top) about a quarter inch to the inside when i'm driving about or over 50mph and want to close the window.. I need to stop/ slow down, and get the window back in the good position! Then close it.. hahaha..

Hihi.. not in Fahrenheit! Lets say if you touch the aluminum wheels (somewhere in the middle) and you have to pull back fast because it feels to hot to let them a few seconds on there, that's most times to hot.. Normally if you drive an half hour with lots of hard braking you get the same result, those wheels get very hot.. (That's normal) Take a look at the container/user manual of the grease you used! It should say something about temperatures.. It does remind me of a time i drove a sunny coupe to work very fast.. When i came at the firm and stopped and got out there was a black plume of smoke over both front wheelarches! 😁

Keep an eye on the temperature of your front bearings, if you suspect problems take a ride and do all the braking with your e brake, then after half hour drive measure the temperature of the bearings.. just in case..

I also have the original 3! point belt in the 240z and also a 4 point rally safety harnas on the original bolts and on one of the top of the rear strut towerbolts. I always use the harnas, the old belts are under the seats. (the third belt just hangs in the rear on the side of the roof.) @steveJ , was very funny to just say: Yes !!

Before paint you have to assemble the whole car to check the gaps between the panels. All panels are empty then. If they fit perfect you can go for paint and assemble everything. I believe the last time i put my 280zx with very long doors together i smuggled a little by hanging the doors just a tiny little higher than they should and it went very well.. You can simulate the weight by just laying your hand on the door.. But it's always a guess. You might need to readjust them after complete assembling it. If you do, use some paint protecting towels as a paintchip can be very frustrating.. (no i had no paintchips)

And while he does that.. He plays the record with Madonna singing: Get into the groove !! 👍

I haven't read the whole story but i guess when you reach 30 !!! pages you have done every aspect.. IF NOT.. do get yourself a new distributor and coil and stuff.. I drive a datsun 240z now for 24 years and always have a lot of spareparts hanging/laying/standing around.. i can't understand why people sell every part they have laying around when they have restored a car. I drive it summer and winter (300zxtt in the summer only also) and it's VERY HANDY to have your own partsstore! I once bought a spare engine complete and took a car completely apart for parts as the bodywork was to far gone. Always handy to have some extra parts as you can barter/exchange.. and your stuff keeps it's value.. once bought a good gearbox for 75 euro.. now it's 1500 euro.. 🙈 What people also do is exchange parts from another car and see if the problem moves to the other car.. but i guess you can't or already done that.. (I mean asked this..) Btw, i admire your patience, I would have stuck that car behind the wallpaper ages ago!! (It's a Dutch saying translated! hahaha.. ) 🤣🤣🤣

Yeah, get the parts you need and pull that engine apart.. very interesting to see what the problem is.. Although the compression looks good it could be some broken rings on your No: 4 piston or something like that.. Can't wait for the pictures! I would have taken it apart years ago.. just start to do it, you learn A LOT! And... ASK if you don't know exactly how to do something like opening up a engine! And remember, pictures can tell more than a 1000 words so put a pic with your questions! I ones had to open up a 300zx engine, it was a non turbo z32.. my dealer told me YOU CAN'T DO THAT! I told him "you don't know what i CAN! I brought it to the dealer because i had an accident at work and was very ill.. then the dealer wrecked the engine by making a "testride" It had a timingbeld problem.. I took it apart AT THE DEALER and repaired it all,It costed me 1600-2000 guilders. (Then about 1000 dollars..) This was in 2001... the car is still on the road today!!

In 2000 i restored my 240z brakes with original rubber hoses and are still on it.. so get the orig hoses from nissan.. simply the best. 😉