
Everything posted by dutchzcarguy
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Cโmon! Own up ...
Eeeehhmmmm... I still don't know what this is about.. what was the name of that sitcom.. (i guess..) ?? ๐ the older guy looks familiar but no.....
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Parts Wanted: WTB analog quartz clocks
Then that was a good guess of mine.. 11 teeth.. The bigger (64) ones are still very good.. I plan to make them myself.. at least one.. but i got many other thing still to do so i don't know when i shall do that.. and no, sorry i got a perfect 280zx just no working clock and i'm not selling my 2 defect clocks..
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Parts Wanted: WTB analog quartz clocks
I was looking for one for years.. they all have the same problem (i have 2 now) .. They all need a very small (11 teeth?) gear.. sitting just in the middle of the clockwork. But where can i get these damn small gears.. the old ones crumble between your fingers.
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Something horrible just happened - an ad autoplayed "music" on the CZCC site
I hav'nt had that but if you ask me.. the speed in loading a page is become slower and i get EVERY time i go to another page a big advert in the lower part of the screen which is VERY anoying.. ๐ ... sorry what? oh it's called progress.. ๐คข
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Trouble Downshifting to First Gear?
Yes... it's recommended to do it just once and check everything, otherwise you end up braking down time after time and.... Get the (correct!!) servicemanual for your car! then you can see for yourself how it comes out and gets in.. (serv.man. are at www.xenonzcar.com ) And.. yes the tab should be in the slot..
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260z round top conversion: a couple questions
I wanted to ad.. why all those gardenhose clamps, get yourself some good (original) clamps. they are much better. Those are used in planes for good reason.
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Cโmon! Own up ...
- Cโmon! Own up ...
Over here, THIS is the sofa on wheels.. And.. yep, this gem is mine.. Ps. the spot under it is water.. i've never seen a goldwing with oil under it! you'll need a italian or english bike for that ! ๐- Trouble Downshifting to First Gear?
Sorry for going off topic.. for answers on slick50: go to thread: slick 50 in datsun gearbox.- Slick 50 in Datsun gearbox
This thread, is about gearoil and the aditiv Slick50 that came out in the 90's? Some stuff that has PTFE in it.. After 20 years of driving a 5 speed (30000km) the gears are making a lot of shifting noise.. again.. Going back from 4 or 5 to 2th is almost impossible to do. @Pilgrim you askt: Are you double - clutching your downshifts? I sure would be. It greatly reduces the work of the sync rings. I do it now by reflex on my ZX. I drive z and zx now for almost 30 years and never double clutched gears.. i have tried it with my problem gearbox but it's so bad it does not help much.. the gears seam to be rolling long after i activated the clutch.. from another thread, @Zed Head ZED HEAD sayd: I remember. It has PTFE particles in it to minimize friction. Synchros need a balance between friction and viscosity to allow the speed matching to occur. If you want to take a chance with $50 I'd try the AC Delco Friction-modified Synchromesh before tearing the transmission down. I'd just let the other stuff drain out and refill with Synchromesh. Otherwise, there's a post on Hybridz about modifying Porsche synchros to work in the steel synchro 5 speeds. I think that FS5C has steel instead of "brass" (yellow). https://slick50.info/manual-gearbox-treatment/ http://skepdic.com/slick50.html https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/press-releases/1996/07/quaker-state-ads-slick-50-are-false-and-misleading-ftc-charges https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/92246-to-people-with-experience-with-the-datsun-comp-5-speed-need-parts-for-one/ zedhead says: Slick50. Based on how synchro gears work, that seems like a not-good choice for transmission fluid. Yes i agree, now after 20 years the slick50 stuff with it's PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) is much to "slick" for the datsun gearboxes.. If i go back some gears i can hear clearly how the gears are still spinning after a few seconds hitting the clutch! After that i push the lever carefully in the direction of the gear i want to get shifted into and it will without any bad noises. It is absolutly possible that a refill with proper GL-4 oil could make a big difference.. As my 240z is at the moment in storage i will test this next year.. (Next year my 240z will be 50 year old and doesn't need anylonger a APK (a dutch MOT.) it's... if you ask me crazy but true.. ( In the Netherlands cars over 50 are so good they don't need a check for safety... but that's a different story.) Zedhead also sayd (in other thread): Pennzoil's brand seems to work just as well. Internet has it that Pennzoil developed the formula for GM (AC Delco). I wonder how Dutchzcar managed to find Slick50 in The Netherlands. If the ac delco is like pennzoil , i could try that. The slick50 was for sale at a dutch autoparts store.. (were i get all my oils and stuff.) The gearbox i use here is a FS5C71B, (orig 5 speed euro 240z gearbox) it's about 50 years old and Never restored or taken apart.. i know it's got the Porsche synchro's in it. (I don't know it those are brass or steel.. i somehow think i seen some in brass somewhere...)- Trouble Downshifting to First Gear?
Yeah.. paint thinner i could try.. maybe fill the gearbox with diesel might work to..? I wanted to ad.. if i go from 4 to 2th realy slowly it works without the horrible noise.. i can feel and hear the turning of the gears and hear them stop..(i push the lever against 2th gear but don't go into 2th) then i can shift into 2th without noise. But i think a new set of sinchromeshes would be the best solution.. but where do i find those for a FS5C71B? (euro 5 speed 240z box)- Trouble Downshifting to First Gear?
I once experimented with a 5 speed gearbox that would'nt go from 4 to 2th gear without a lot of noise.. i put in SLICK50 does someone here know that stuff? The gearbox is now after ~30000km again a problem shifting from 4 to 2th or even to 3th.. I ask myself, how can i get the oil AND! the SLICK50! out of there to test an other oil. (before taking it apart and get new sinchro's in? It's a FS5C71B so a very rare gearbox with rare sinchromeshes..)- Wipers Always On...!
For a 240z in the US. version.. A euro version had it already in 1972 for as far i know. But anyway. it could be that there is a defect (short circuit ) in your wiper (itermittent) electronics that make them go all the time.. or the return contact in the motor is the culprit. (it sits in the wipermotor.)- Restoration Unveiled Today 08.17.2019
Oh.. i know the feeling.. last summer of 2019 we had also a few very hot days of 40 C ( 105 F ??) one gets nothing done.. especially when you are a bit older. Hope to read about your restoration on this forum later on!- No oil pressure after rebuild
Agree!, I never took a look into them because i never ever had a problem with meters ever!. Few pic's of those parts in this story would be also very nice..- Bumper Fitment
It looks a bit close to me.. Mine (is a 1971 feb. 240z) has a bigger gap. Maybe use a shime.. (inside bumper) . Loosen also the bolts of the 2 front brackets when you install the outside brackets. The bumper ends should not really be IN the cavety's of the bodypanel.. just in front of them. otherwise take the bumper off, (put it on a stable not damaging floor.. towels!) use a string fit it to the ends of the bumper with some ducttape and then carefully bend the lower and upper metal to the outside near the middle tip. Use some tape (more layers.) to protect the chrome and extra clothes. also you need some flat steel To spread the force from the pliers and 2 sets of pliers.. When you put a little bit pressure on the bumper you'll see the string slacken. Hope i sayd this right in english haha...- Strange emergency flasher issue
Just wanted to ad, the Us version of the Hazard switch has 9 wires.. the euro version has only 3! (has to do with the fact that US uses the same bulbs for flash,lights and brakes.. Euro/JDM version has different bulbs for that.. so the schematic diagram is much simpler and ... a bit more relyable.. ๐- Restoration Unveiled Today 08.17.2019
@hansmeister How are you Hans? I saw you haven't been on the forum since april.. So busy with the 280zx? If so make your own thread about it! Hope you are well! Here a pic of my restored/refreshed car.. a 1979 slick roof 280zx 2+2 Still busy with little things like a restore on the rear window washer pump.. Drove over 500 km. Oil looks still fairly clean!- FS5W71B transmission identification (close-ratio vs. wide ratio) - with pictures
To ad, The euro version also has a different diff.. I converted my 240z from 4 speed (US type) to 5 speed (Euro type) and had to change the differential also because with a euro 5 speed and a US. differential you get a very large first gear that will eat your clutchdisk every time you pull away.. As my car has a km speedo it ran till over 50-60 in first gear.. don't remember how high it was only that it was way to high.- Bleeding Brakes / Brake Master Cylinder
Sorry but if that is not clear to you, you better leave that brake job to a qualified mechanic.. oeps..- FS5W71B transmission identification (close-ratio vs. wide ratio) - with pictures
Watch out with gearboxes, there are many versions that look the same but are not! This is not true for the euro version FS5C71B gearbox that came in europe in the 240z 1971 to 1973. I got one here and it has 2! ears.. Oh yes! my close ratiobox has one! Wrong again .. ๐ On my close ratio box it's... at 12 o'clock! So one could think it's a wide one but no this box came out of an original dutch 240z and i'm shure it's a FS5C71B not a FS5W71B (got those to btw.. reserve for my 280zx)- Correct Hatch Removal Method?
- Correct Hatch Removal Method?
I often take a Philips and a Pozidriv bit, when they stick and stay in it in the horizontal position, thats the one i use.. Yours is philips.. this is pozidriv. An extra star in the cross and these are deeper, This problem is less common with the improved version of the Philips: the Pozidriv, which was introduced in the 1960s. In addition to a deeper center, this screw head has four additional star-shaped slots, which improve grip. In Europe, the Pozidriv is the most common screw head today!- Correct Hatch Removal Method?
Yes it's red.. but for anyone.. next time, take a good look at these 2 possebility's, the bolts in blue can take more than one position, the 2 bolts/screws in red always will go to the central position, so those are safe to take off. With doors it's also the bolt in the door you can safely take off..- How Flush Should Sway Bar Link Ends Be?
- Cโmon! Own up ...
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