dutchzcarguy

This thread, is about gearoil and the aditiv Slick50 that came out in the 90's? Some stuff that has PTFE in it.. After 20 years of driving a 5 speed (30000km) the gears are making a lot of shifting noise.. again.. Going back from 4 or 5 to 2th is almost impossible to do. @Pilgrim you askt: Are you double - clutching your downshifts? I sure would be. It greatly reduces the work of the sync rings. I do it now by reflex on my ZX. I drive z and zx now for almost 30 years and never double clutched gears.. i have tried it with my problem gearbox but it's so bad it does not help much.. the gears seam to be rolling long after i activated the clutch.. from another thread, @Zed Head ZED HEAD sayd: I remember. It has PTFE particles in it to minimize friction. Synchros need a balance between friction and viscosity to allow the speed matching to occur. If you want to take a chance with $50 I'd try the AC Delco Friction-modified Synchromesh before tearing the transmission down. I'd just let the other stuff drain out and refill with Synchromesh. Otherwise, there's a post on Hybridz about modifying Porsche synchros to work in the steel synchro 5 speeds. I think that FS5C has steel instead of "brass" (yellow). https://slick50.info/manual-gearbox-treatment/ http://skepdic.com/slick50.html https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/press-releases/1996/07/quaker-state-ads-slick-50-are-false-and-misleading-ftc-charges https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/92246-to-people-with-experience-with-the-datsun-comp-5-speed-need-parts-for-one/ zedhead says: Slick50. Based on how synchro gears work, that seems like a not-good choice for transmission fluid. Yes i agree, now after 20 years the slick50 stuff with it's PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) is much to "slick" for the datsun gearboxes.. If i go back some gears i can hear clearly how the gears are still spinning after a few seconds hitting the clutch! After that i push the lever carefully in the direction of the gear i want to get shifted into and it will without any bad noises. It is absolutly possible that a refill with proper GL-4 oil could make a big difference.. As my 240z is at the moment in storage i will test this next year.. (Next year my 240z will be 50 year old and doesn't need anylonger a APK (a dutch MOT.) it's... if you ask me crazy but true.. ( In the Netherlands cars over 50 are so good they don't need a check for safety... but that's a different story.) Zedhead also sayd (in other thread): Pennzoil's brand seems to work just as well. Internet has it that Pennzoil developed the formula for GM (AC Delco). I wonder how Dutchzcar managed to find Slick50 in The Netherlands. If the ac delco is like pennzoil , i could try that. The slick50 was for sale at a dutch autoparts store.. (were i get all my oils and stuff.) The gearbox i use here is a FS5C71B, (orig 5 speed euro 240z gearbox) it's about 50 years old and Never restored or taken apart.. i know it's got the Porsche synchro's in it. (I don't know it those are brass or steel.. i somehow think i seen some in brass somewhere...)

Yeah.. paint thinner i could try.. maybe fill the gearbox with diesel might work to..? I wanted to ad.. if i go from 4 to 2th realy slowly it works without the horrible noise.. i can feel and hear the turning of the gears and hear them stop..(i push the lever against 2th gear but don't go into 2th) then i can shift into 2th without noise. But i think a new set of sinchromeshes would be the best solution.. but where do i find those for a FS5C71B? (euro 5 speed 240z box)

I once experimented with a 5 speed gearbox that would'nt go from 4 to 2th gear without a lot of noise.. i put in SLICK50 does someone here know that stuff? The gearbox is now after ~30000km again a problem shifting from 4 to 2th or even to 3th.. I ask myself, how can i get the oil AND! the SLICK50! out of there to test an other oil. (before taking it apart and get new sinchro's in? It's a FS5C71B so a very rare gearbox with rare sinchromeshes..)

For a 240z in the US. version.. A euro version had it already in 1972 for as far i know. But anyway. it could be that there is a defect (short circuit ) in your wiper (itermittent) electronics that make them go all the time.. or the return contact in the motor is the culprit. (it sits in the wipermotor.)

Oh.. i know the feeling.. last summer of 2019 we had also a few very hot days of 40 C ( 105 F ??) one gets nothing done.. especially when you are a bit older. Hope to read about your restoration on this forum later on!

Agree!, I never took a look into them because i never ever had a problem with meters ever!. Few pic's of those parts in this story would be also very nice..

It looks a bit close to me.. Mine (is a 1971 feb. 240z) has a bigger gap. Maybe use a shime.. (inside bumper) . Loosen also the bolts of the 2 front brackets when you install the outside brackets. The bumper ends should not really be IN the cavety's of the bodypanel.. just in front of them. otherwise take the bumper off, (put it on a stable not damaging floor.. towels!) use a string fit it to the ends of the bumper with some ducttape and then carefully bend the lower and upper metal to the outside near the middle tip. Use some tape (more layers.) to protect the chrome and extra clothes. also you need some flat steel To spread the force from the pliers and 2 sets of pliers.. When you put a little bit pressure on the bumper you'll see the string slacken. Hope i sayd this right in english haha...

Just wanted to ad, the Us version of the Hazard switch has 9 wires.. the euro version has only 3! (has to do with the fact that US uses the same bulbs for flash,lights and brakes.. Euro/JDM version has different bulbs for that.. so the schematic diagram is much simpler and ... a bit more relyable.. 😁

@hansmeister How are you Hans? I saw you haven't been on the forum since april.. So busy with the 280zx? If so make your own thread about it! Hope you are well! Here a pic of my restored/refreshed car.. a 1979 slick roof 280zx 2+2 Still busy with little things like a restore on the rear window washer pump.. Drove over 500 km. Oil looks still fairly clean!

To ad, The euro version also has a different diff.. I converted my 240z from 4 speed (US type) to 5 speed (Euro type) and had to change the differential also because with a euro 5 speed and a US. differential you get a very large first gear that will eat your clutchdisk every time you pull away.. As my car has a km speedo it ran till over 50-60 in first gear.. don't remember how high it was only that it was way to high.

Sorry but if that is not clear to you, you better leave that brake job to a qualified mechanic.. oeps..

Watch out with gearboxes, there are many versions that look the same but are not! This is not true for the euro version FS5C71B gearbox that came in europe in the 240z 1971 to 1973. I got one here and it has 2! ears.. Oh yes! my close ratiobox has one! Wrong again .. 😂 On my close ratio box it's... at 12 o'clock! So one could think it's a wide one but no this box came out of an original dutch 240z and i'm shure it's a FS5C71B not a FS5W71B (got those to btw.. reserve for my 280zx)

I often take a Philips and a Pozidriv bit, when they stick and stay in it in the horizontal position, thats the one i use.. Yours is philips.. this is pozidriv. An extra star in the cross and these are deeper, This problem is less common with the improved version of the Philips: the Pozidriv, which was introduced in the 1960s. In addition to a deeper center, this screw head has four additional star-shaped slots, which improve grip. In Europe, the Pozidriv is the most common screw head today!

Yes it's red.. but for anyone.. next time, take a good look at these 2 possebility's, the bolts in blue can take more than one position, the 2 bolts/screws in red always will go to the central position, so those are safe to take off. With doors it's also the bolt in the door you can safely take off..

Dito, for my 240z and 280zx..

That diff belt looks like a toothed belt.. like a timing belt of a modern car.. The original belt is much more robust and stiffer! Someone sometime.. fell over that belt and thought: Hey lets use it as a diff arrester belt! It has always been a bad solution to the problem and this is no improvement.. BTW my (Rest in peaces) 1972 240z had one and in good condition.) and my early 1971 does not have that at all! Maybe someone has a better solution for this arrester belt as Nissan calls them?

I'm sorry i don't have the numbers here, my fiche reader is no longer here.. but you can find the numbers on the internet. So Bosch has sold it's name also to the chinese junkmakers?

Hahaha... See.. Amazon JUNK.. Read the review at the bottom of the page... This one costs $45,36 AND IT'S JUNK! It says the starter was installed and lasted not 10 starts!

Why do people think they can get a good starter for 20-30 bucks? HUH????? I sold new originals for 100-200 euro and i knew they last MANY years! The other day... a commercial from amazon here in the Netherlands.. Oh thats cheap... OH thats cheap !! YES BUT IT'S ALSO JUNK!! Are people that stupid? YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!!!!! it has been that way always, it will be that way forever... Last saterday i sayd to my supplyer of autoparts.. i need 2 new pumps for the front and rear windshieldwashers AND I DON'T WANT THE CHEAP $^!# FROM THE INTERNET.. Now i bought 2 pumps made in france.. No offence (to the french readers here) but i would've liked made in Japan more.. Are these good... i will know in 10 years? When i "restored" my 240z i put in a brand new original 240z starter. when i restored my 280zx.. i put in a brand new original 280zx starter. How many times have I been stranded on the road in the last 30 years? With 8 different z or zx's only twice.. once because there was less fuel in the tank as the 240z fuelgauge tried to tell me.. and once the 300zxtt had a problem with it's ignition power transistor (a very common problem i was told later, there was a mod for it.). My advice: do like me, save up enough money to afford the better part! Otherwise you keep on having problems one after the other and then one day, you really gone hate that effing car. To me, a list of JUNK! It's impossible to get a good starter for those prices!

I found some pic's on the net that are the supposed parts one would need if he wants to check a 1979 280zx EFI system.. This is a J25400-32 I read i need a J24500-36 adapter to check a 280zx s130 1979 model.. On the sticker it says J25400-30 ? huh... On my analyzer is a blue overlay. I need the red overlay with DATSUN on it.. But i could use some tape over the blue overlay and copy what's on the red one haha. (i bet there is not much difference.)

I know it's on the net, thanks but i meant find it here in my house.. i always prefer the original manual over a copy on the net. It would be very nice to test a 280zx system, but.. I need the adapter J25400-36.. and i don't think i'm going to find that one... Maybe i can change one of my J25400-12 adapters in a J25400-36. anyway i got other things to do.. recovering from a hernia i had over a month ago.. happy i can walk again haha.. Make a copy of the net anyway, thanks again CO!

If only i could find that damn user manual...!! ( I don't know if i got the right overlay but do know that i have the wrong extender. I got j25400-12 and i need something like j25400-32 or so.. i red that long ago) oh.. i have the extender twice (same j25400-12) so i could exchange one.. On the other hand.. i asked myself.. why 2 the same types with this analyzer? Is the older one (single one with a serial number!) defect and now theres a new(er) one with the analyzer? Maybe it's an idea to open up a extender to look for damage.. yeah the older one with serialnumber 4009.

another 2 pic's.. These with the only overlay.. J25400-11A.

I saw a datecode on a powertransistor. week 05 '79.. so the machine is of 1980 or so, the microprocessor was still in development.. i think? Hihi, yeah.. i had it with the manual, and it was laying IN between the case halves.. i thought.. it will get wrinkled this way and i left it out and thought to read it some time.. now i can't find the EFFING thing? oh well.. it's somewhere in this house.. ;-) I think so... i have a brand new NISSAN CONSULT, bought from a Belgian nissan (sub?)dealer!! To check my 300zxtt i thought.. but it won't work. It's a complete case with all the special cables, leads everything! Not a scratch on it... but the only thing it does is "peep peep peeeeep.. when you touch the screen.. THAT was something special in 1990 !!! A TOUCHSCREEN!!!! I ones opened it with a friend who (maybe?) has worked on the development of your smartphones processor! ;-) (Samsung) We could not get it to work after a new back up battery and some power from a transformer. :-( I need the servicemanual for the servicemanual-tool haha.. you any idea where i could find the circuitdiagram of a nissan-consult 1 ?