dutchzcarguy

Thats why i gave the advice to put the wire on the component side.. as pro's do.. (i've worked with studer revox machines, and ones opened up a TEAC... wow, there are a lot of those wires in there! A ReVox is well engineered.. they don't do/need that!)

Clean the board well, then take of the damaged line(s) on the board and drill 2 small holes (1mm) at the ends of the line that has to be replaced and then put in a .8mm wire on the other side (componentside) of the board. It will look good and work well ? (Make shure the board is clean for soldering, use good resin core solder tin. )

Sad story, i would put in a lot of pictures, they say more than a Thousand words..

I'm with Charles, only if the rest of the loom is a firehazard i'll put in a new loom at this time..

Small video of the first parts been sprayed with epoxy. 20191221_133026.mp4

Another week at the painter/bodyshop.. Most time sanding and eh.. sanding and then…. some sanding! ? Also used some new to me tools.. to get out some dents that were to severe to lieve alone.. Did i say earlyer that sanding is my favorite hobby? NOT !!! First here the pic of the welded in new part were the left mirror sits. I know now the pro's and cons of copper/selicium welding… one con is the weld tore easely when you want to lower it by hitting it with a hammer! So a second weld was neccessary. Today (saterday) was a important day.. The first parts became a layer of epoxy in the spraybooth…. BY ME! I've used a spraygun many years ago but not much experience with them.. i think this went well.. Some small dents are still in there but... not bad for 40+ year old doors! After this they get smoothed out with some bondo and become a new set off paint. (Car will be painted in Nissan TK3, an Original nissan zx color.) Some other pic's of prep.. and sanding.. bare metall pic's.. Rightdoor mirror, bare metall. A "college"had some left over bondo.. i let him leave it on a little dent.. Next i'll probably do the hood and frontfenders prep and epoxy...

Obviously…. ( but there are a lot lathes with reverse gear..) Nice tools!

Just for illustration.. different lugs or wheelnuts.. measure the left diameter of them.

Last summer i had some 280zx turbo wheels under my 240z and discovered that the wheelnuts i use for the winterwheels (are aftermarket rims) are a different size diameter as they are not conical. That gave me a lot of shimmy issues! check the diameter of the wheellugs and the diameter the rims need.

Another week at the bodyshop has gone by.. some progress has been made.. Made the lower parts of the left fender this time, to weld in. Lv = (links voor) or.. left front. front part of the fender. The rear lower part of the left front fender is made but no pic's yet.. Then there was the left door, did some as we say "beeldhouw werk" sculpturing haha, it needs after 40 years and a not perfect strait weld some bondo.. Almost ready for paint... there was a spot that was not perfect.. where the mirror sits or sat.. some rust spots, i better weld some copper in.. ( sp.L= spiegel links) mirror left. maesurements are centimeters. cM. Welded the holes from the mirror.. but then, when i checkt it, the metal was to thin... At the end of the day i went for the better option... I welded it all around.. but no pic yet.. These are the small things that take a lot of time but they are necessary!

Those rear tires are NOT big enough!.... Yeah overalll….BARF...

The first few times i used my early '71 240z I flattened the switch several times with my knees! Then the brake lights stayed out..(US type switch with the 9 contacts!) the switch was broken inside.. Now i'm still driving the car almost 20 years with a frozen switch in off position, some glue keeps it together hahaha… and it's handle is flat with the dash.. i have to put my right knee somewhere haha ?

My 02-'71 doesn't have those ribs either.. Some extra floorstiffness would be also good for bigger europeans ? When i put in a whole new floor i didn't know of them so mine still has none.. oh well, it's 1mm steel i used so it is already a bit stronger than the old floor..

Probably? it's seems to be the better Nylon... Couldn't you make just a new set on them, just a little bit bigger and secure them with rivets (like it was already) ?

In the right front fender was left some rusttreatment stuff.. i took it off and made this pic of a 40! year old well preserved fender! Later on this one gets a new coat of zinc and rusttreatment. Very few spots of rust. Coated in zinc. (after taking off the rusty spots..)

It's very nice to get the chance to work on your own car in a professional bodyshop/paintshop, i can use all the tools needed or bring my own if i want to! So i askt if i could bring my own MIG welder, not necessary we have a lot of Mig's.. ? so i could use the copper/silicium MIG welder! It works with a lot less heat so the workpeace does not bend from overheating.. (Also my own NISSAN Toolcart on this pic!) I didn't Grind away the whole weld, it's not necessary and stronger this way. You can see clearly the copper in the weld. Outside front fender in zinc paint. Just looking if it fits..2nd part on low right already welded on/in.. Used an english wheel at home for a smal curvature. Question of the day ? does the 280zx frontfender only have 1 screw or bolt to keep it in place here? and is it a screw or bolt? (if you tell me i don't need to go through a thousend pic's )

that what i thought to, leaning and holding on to the shifter in 2nd... wears out the fork..

Hihi so funny… i go shoft my shifter….

If you made the tiltle you have some weeks to change it.. or month's, don't know.. maybe @Mike can tell..? On topic, why not weld the old fork? Steel or aluminum (aluminium also ? ) i weld both… This week i learnt how to weld with copper/silicium with a MIG... yeah! still learning new tricks!! (it is a colder weld! within days i will show some welds in my thread: restoring a 280zx slick roof.)

zKars, could you rename this thread to the right name of gearbox because no one can find it back later on.. FS5W71B Thanks!

Also for DC current useable.. ( to look at the starting current… at your starter, around 100-130 amps…)

You say FC5W71B ?? you mean the FS5W71B (280zx..) or (in case of the eurotype 240z 5 speed) the FS5C71B ?? i could of course be wrong but i never heard of the FC5W71B .. were does it come out of?

I've got a Beckman multimeter and a voltcraft for the big amps measurement.. only one thing important, buy something you can rely on.. The FLUKE is like a BECKMAN a very good multimeter. I've used them many times at work.

This past week i took out the last piece of carpet. Rarely seen such a clean floor in a 280! Then i have made (again!!?) some fender ends the ones who i made earlyer were F***tup by my good friend (NOT!) Danny, who can't weld… (not saying am a pro in welding but …..anyway..) I gave him a set of 4 lower ends for the frontfenders and he cut those in half just to … i don't know.. Look at the parts you can follow his way? please explain it to me because i can't see it.. Left on pic is my old f***tup part and right my yesterday made new part.. The right one is made out of one piece, the left one is welded on diff sides and pieces put on... what was he thinking??? ? (the cut in it was to measure the width of the cutting tool i used at that moment. (1,3mm) Here i radically cut it off! I don't want this kind of junk, not on my car! (Took the last rusty spots also off!) The left hand side will be made the same way.. on a block of wood. Every part takes about 2-3 hours or metalwork to do it good. So by the time the fenders are ready for paint i'm counting on 25-30 hours with welding and making it smooth… easely..

Welcom, we all want to see some pic's of your (almost) finished car! If your interested in some 240z bumpers i'n in the town of Gennep near you! I think i'm one on the few that have 4 sets of bumpers left for a 240/260z and they look also nice on a 280z! I've got a 240z and i'm restoring a 280zx slick roof, first euro edition..1979.. it's in the zx section here! Greetings, Mart.