dutchzcarguy

There is a story that the L series engines from nissan are copy's of the old Mercedes blocks.. a sertain engineer in design (still nameing no names... ;-) ) took a copy with him from mercedes to Nissan.. And yes i think there has been some copying...

Hahaha... yeah... I don't think those parts are all for 240z... what is that light blue drum right in the middle of pic 1 ??? I don't recognize it.. no 240z part...

if you still have fumes open hatch lay a piece of paper on the rubber seal.. close the hatch and if you can easely pull the paper out it does not close well and leaks. put it back in and close hatch, move the paper around and look for more leaks. Adjust the hatch or maybe you just need a new rubber seal there..

Yeah, every time it's much cheaper in de States, overhere all carparts are more expensive WHY?? (Netherlands is a small market, USA is enormous...) Also in Germany it's all cheaper, i had a clutchplate for 40 euro and overhere in the Netherlands its 90 euro... it's crazy... i can go on and on.. waterpump is overhere 40+ euro. for the cheap stamped impeller that is! Grrrr...

Unbelievable.... it's really frustrating when you know these shields are made (also) in France (EUROPE!!) and here in the Netherlands you have to pay over 600 euro for the windscreen ALONE !! labor is extra..

This one has never seen winter in now 25 !! years, from a ceo of Nissan Netherlands! with complete history, it drove 83300km and is totally Original. (without any scratch or dent of course..)

Haha.... yeah, don't drive it in the winter.. i've got a "as new" 300zx twin turbo 1992 Original dutch version.. for the summer and my 240z is the other car that draws the short straw!! But i must say after 17 ! years of winter driving the underside shows only a little bit of surface rust.. our winters are not that heavy.. for the last years we did'nt have much salt on the roads.. For my 280zx restoration i plan a mix of transparent undercoating ( viscous oil) mixed with WD40. Most important is that you keep it sticky! If it dry's you get cracks in the coating were wather and salt gets in and destroys the metal.. Mart.

I spray my car with wd40 every 2 year.. the old layer of undercoating gets soft and is very sticky! I had a 280zx with every 2 years a new undercoat.. after 10 year i bought that car (my first one) and there was a big layer of undercoat, when the car was 20 years old a mechanic told me he could put a screwdriver through the bottom at 12 positions.. what i'm saying is: use one thin layer of undercoat and keep it "wet" with some wd40, works for me here in the wet and salty dutch winters! So... get off the loose parts and spray some wd40 on a part and let it get soft i a few days if it works do the whole underside. (maybe experiment with a mix of wd40 and paintthinner to get the Original coating soft again.) i would never put a plastic like bedliner on a car because if you see rust then ... it will be to late. and a car rots behind a thick coat of undercoat or bedliner..

It's a common leak.. like the oilsensor it has a plastic part inside that leakes after 35+ years.. a new one was Always my solusion..

My problem with these exhaust pipes is the quality... they are to me... "Italian made JUNK" sorry.. but i think they are rustbuckets in no-time.. does someone have other experiences with them? Mart. @wil84911

Hi, .. you mean these exhaust parts from ANSA... this is new old stock.. @wil84911

That car would do about 4-5000 euro over here.. in auto.. with 5 speed it would be a 7-8000 euro car in good, fair condition.. A euro version could bring a bit more as they are very rare.. 79 was over here the first year for a 280zx. As sayd.. prices are going up in the near future.. 240z's that are 2000 dollar in de States are over here sold (Complete wrecks!!!) for 10000 euro's ! crazy.. (see www.speurders.nl type: 240z or Datsun ) OH.. there is were my old datsun is gone hahaha... i here you say..

Hello Jimmy, That buzzer IS that annoying! It go's normally when you have lights on contact off and door open, closed door (or when you puss the contact in door opening. should shut up the buzzer.. The engine sound like it wants to start on the shoke injector only... maybe your timing is off or the ECCS (No ecu in a 280zx) is defect.. A good use is to clean all the ground contacts anyway!!! could be the problem! good luck! Mart.

Mark...... HMB IS the flattop... HMB46W is the flattop. HJG46W is the roundtop.. I hear over and over those flattops are boatanchors , get yourself a set from ztherapy. (Roundtops are much easyer to adjust..) i wonder is there no service set for those boatanchors haha??

These are now for NCV.. ? (Meaning NO crankcase Ventilation)

Thanks Jim.. good explanation! Has anyone ordered or experience with ocautocarpets.com ? Do they make something that is a really good fit?

Hi Guys, Just a question, I can order a new carpet for my 280zx 2+2 at www.ocautocarpets.com is this a good vendor? can i trust that i get a good carpet? Has anyone bought one there? Is it any good? Thanks. BTW... what does Cutpile mean?

Still 4 speeds in 1975? We had in europe 5 speed standard in 240z's.... Over here only some little Datsuns had 4 speeds... ;-) Later on the cherry's and sunny's even got 5 speed gearboxes

Plastic survives but for example a lock plate of the 280zx, that plastic bushing in it gets loose, with some new glue its reparable! 20160408_133505.mp4

I destroyed a good wheel ten years ago.. The "wood" comes of in a vise, by clamping and a wood chisel comes in handy. The woody stuff is a mix of sawdust and polyester. Beware it can have very sharp edges! I've got a spare wheel.. original to my car.. ;-)

Hello Z dreams, something like in my car? The inner metal of the steering wheel is about 6,35 mm (1/4 inch!) thick. I took 6 pieces of mahogany on the front with a 1/4 inch groove in it and 6 pieces on the back (massiv). Made them with a hand milling machine. And the fingergroove with a powerfile.. It was about 30 hours of work haha.. This wheel is glued on with 2 comp. glue and between the wood waterproof wood glue.. I think the result for a electronics guy is very good.. I'm using it now for 10 years and i'm realy happy with it! (With my big hands and no power steering it's fantastic.) (It has 7 or 8 layers of lacquer .... About the gearknob, I've got one made on a wood lathe.. neede also a lot of coats of lacquer..

Complains...hihi...could you guys put an F to those 101 degrees... for us that's literally boiling hot! Hihi (Over here in Europe it's Celsius.. who swings the scepter.) Everybody... keep in mind that the whole world is looking... Reminds me of someone who ordered a boat in meters and got it sheap...in foot!!

Sounds like worn shocks to me.. get some new rear shocks, also after ten year those tires have flat spots.. new or good used tires is something i would recommend also.. Normally half shafts are not in need of balancing as far i know.. They should be NO play in them.. check them thoroughly. About the fuel, install a new fuelfilter, you can see through .. then you can see if there is some crud in the tank. Also revise your braking systems would be a good thing...

A s30 in good condition can be lifted on all 4 corners where you normally put your Jack.. Cars where the middle reinforcement are rusted away, will fail.. but you did a good job so it should be lifted there.. I know mine will not fail, i reconstructed those jack up spots thoroughly. Again... those beams under your 1 mm. floor are also just 1 mm and dent easy.. On the later 280z i've never seen them close up but they appear to be sturdier. Anyone who would like to buy a z car i advice to but a jack under the 4 corners, (one at the time) if the owner don't want to cooperate.. step away!! Bad restorations will fail! With MOT or as it is called over here APK, i prefer them to lift it at the front axle (middle of it) or rear axle (under the differential gear carrier.. (as it is mentioned in the service manual.