dutchzcarguy

THEN.. i would (maybe after some driving to see if the rings settle?) ... take the engine completely apart but at his workshop! Then you can say: i took it apart for you for free .. now you can fix this engine.. I would definetely ask him over to see how bad it is! If he has a firm he does not want you to make negative /bad advertising. Didn't read it all but if i hear what you did with them you have a good set of carbs. They are not the problem i think.

Another tip would be, take a wheel off and look if the bushing of the lugnut fits perfectly the holes in the rim. I have seen lugnuts with a to small diameter and it gives a lot of (balancing) problems.

I've seen them for 1500 euro/dollars.. never under 1000.. but hey, as we overhere tend to say: het is wat de gek ervoor geeft. Roughly translated: it's worth what a madman gives for it! 😉 More important is the quality of the part and are there bearings available for it. Is it machined to specific measurements. Sometimes they are on ebay.. maybe there you can find what it's worth..

Yes, that's possible but i think that's then a later remanufactured/ altered p90a head that was altered because the hydrolic lifters are long time NLA? Or do you have orig.paperwork (seen) from p90a heads with non hydrolic lifters?

I have had a 280zx non turbo and it was originally coming from germany and had a P90 head in it.. don't tell me that in the usa there are only turbo p90 heads? btw it was not a p90a as those have the hydrolic lifters.

Hahaha 🤣 I sometimes also have to do that as my 240z is at his last feet before a complete restoration. (But not 1100tpm, more 900-1000, and my idleling is at the factory 650 not 800! It even works at 500 tpm it does not stall.. but for the oilpressure i don't let it go under 600.

Nope.. but i ask myself why are your halfshafts noisy.. i never heard of that.. unless they have a lot of play? Isn't there a simple solution, just replace some "bearings" in the linkage? i wouldn't go for a cable.. it will not last as long as a linkage.. that says something about the quality.. Just check the linkage overall "bearings" and some lube should make it a lot better.

Thanks CO! I bet then that the hydrolic oil in my car lift is also NON-detergent oil! In 1995 when i bought my lift, it worked a year or 2 and then i restored it by putting in a brand new pump and new oil and seals.. I know the oil is the right stuff as the firm that delivered me the new pump also delivered the oil. As you like stories! I phoned that firm when i needed the new pump.. the old one was 10 years old and used a lot.. When i asked the guy on the phone and he repeated the number of the pump someone on the background sayd: YES! we do have a pump like that! It's been laying around here for Ages!! Then as he was also hanging around in theire warehouse looking for the pump to be sure, he came back on the phone and told me, YES we have a pump for you! I told him: Yes.. and it's laying around there for AGES! Hahaha, he laughed, did you hear that!! YES i did and i'm in need of a discount haha.. i believe it was about 75dollars that pump.. (150 guilders then) It's still working till this day! (It's a spanish brand 3 or 3,5 ton lift. ISTOBAL )

I wonder what happens when you use ordinary engine 10w40 or so in a compressor? I have my compressor since 1992 or so and only once changed the oil and about 10 x let a bit of water out the tank. It's a cheaply 2 HP less than 10 gallon tank .. and the first thing i do when the day comes that there is no air.. is... buy meself a new one! 😉 So i'm not gonna change the oil but what happens if you would use 10w40? (engine oil)

Btw.. i wouldn't reuse the headliner.. it's very old.. too old. There is a lot of cheap pvc for sale that looks exactly the same and can be glued much easyer than the old (gone) hard pvc.

For vinyl i used a spayable glue. Over here we have Bison spray glue.. you just spray it on and wait (half an hour?) to let it get very sticky and it works very well. And it does not fail after years... One can is more than enough to do a roof and even about enough to do a whole car. where do you need 2 gallons for??? (it says so in your link)

Ah.. Now i know why i didn't get it.. i restored a few years ago some 280zx horns and they don't have the paper in between the 2 sides. They came out perfect, just had to retune them, i think most need a retune. (easy with the little screw)

There is a difference in steel diameter between USA and euro springs i believe.. when my car was 45 years old (about) .. i had to change the rear springs as they were very soft.. 50 kg (120Lbs) of sand in the car was enough to drag the exhaust over the ground! I installed some euro's springs i had and now it's much better. (100 kg? no problem!)

You have to elaborate.. don't know what you mean.. a pic tells a lot more..

Hahaha... Thanks Cliff, but borat?? I hope to differ a lot from him hahaha.. But thanks very much for the compliment. Anyway, do you know what the Dutch word for compliment is? It's Compliment hahaha.. 🙂

So funny.. only bad ENGLISH words are going to be deleted! A antf*cker is someone that it very very critical on how things get done.. very precise people.. often giving headages to others haha!

It took me 3 times looking at it but now i see the small cover in the middle is not powdercoated? I thought the new powdercoat is a bit darker then the original wheel/rim and the thing in the middle aknowledges that.. sorry it's fine.. i'm just a .. Mierenneukert.. (Translated: a antf*cker) 🤣 You can always powdercoat the little hubcap ? 🙊

Thanks Cliff !! (I sit most times.. start most times, from the home page and then i don't see those pics.. ) I take a look at: Topics last 24 hours!

They/You came very close to the original paintwork! I understand it's a powdercoat. so maybe you can ask for the code of that powdercoating eh.. powder? It's beautiful! What i ask myself as i never powdercoated, do you need to take off all the old powdercoat? I think yes? as al the edges become to round when coating over a old coat?

Hey, Charles, i just took a look at your picture on the frontpage of your topic and i thought it would be nice when you have your project finished to take a pic like that and put it at the end of this story accompanied with the first pic! We might get to see some gray hairs? (or even yellow hair from the paintbooth! 😁 )

Yeah! When restoring first.. make pictures, when bussy.. make pictures.. when taking apart FIRST MAKE PICTURES!!! when looking for new parts USE PICTURES , when installing make... yes.. pictures! So the message is: MAKE lots of pictures! AND THEN THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP: TAKE THEM FROM DIFFERENT ANGLES.. (it's SO frustrating when you do have a pic with that one cable on it but you can;t see (in that angle) where it go's exactly.. this as a example..) Remember also a pic is 2 dimensional and it's not always clear how things get together.. For example this with one special angle..

No.. dielectric grease is to keep water out of electric connectors.. it does NOT have conductivity.. it isolates! Coppergrease does not but if it's the right stuff to use? I would make the connection very clean and after connecting leave some coppergrease on it. (so not in between the connecting parts.) maybe google for some electric conducting stuff? Maybe you could use some petroliumgelly like you do on battery poles to keep them from oxidating? (petroliumgelly does also not conduct electricity.. so not in between the connectors, on a battery pole it's different as the clamp wil make contact through the gelly as it's high clamping force.)

Yeah.. doing U-joints is not a fun job.. When you send them halfshafts for balancing do you also balance the propshaft as it is a even faster turning part? I would do that!

HUH? I don't see any of these pic's .. what are you guys talking about??? 😮

It turned out very well! and also the orig turbo tire sizes on it! Nice car.. as i got the same car (Yes in silver KL0) i clearly missed the spoiler on the rear.. but i also like the look without that thing. Any chance that you have the color code for that rim paint/powdercoat stuff? Mine are now 31 years old and a bit fading. (but still good as they are really old.) OR does someone know the paintcode for the original z32 wheels?