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dutchzcarguy

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Everything posted by dutchzcarguy

  1. dutchzcarguy
    ?? His pistol is/was under the intake ?? OH you mean the starter was under the intake! Nice place to hide it.. now you have to disassemble half the engine to get to it! pff.. I can understand if your friend wants to empty his gun on such a car-enginedesign..
  2. dutchzcarguy
    Maybe resurrected classics has found the old templates from the fenders that "black dragon" used to have in theire catalog? If so.. they are not bad.. i think.. These are the black dragon ones. They look like stock nissan parts.. (No longer available) but are copy's
  3. dutchzcarguy
    Hey Ferg, I have "fixed" my 240z between 1998 and 2000, i had a accident at work and needed a car as my boss putted me after 13 years on the street.. (I had a company car) and the 240z was a hobby.. it failed in 23 years just twice and it was because of no fuel in it and a under hood light that had a burnt out bulb, and it came back to live through a shaking car and draint the battery! What i want to say: these s30's are one of the most reliable cars there are around. i always laugh when people with " modern " cars have all kind of trouble with theire cars.. As these s30 have a electric plan that fits on a A4 piece of paper there is not much that can go wrong! And when i see what some people have to pay for theire garage bill pfff.. Crazy Money!! 🤬
  4. dutchzcarguy
    I don't have a big A**e.. 🤣 and do have a "rallycar 240z" set of seats from the german fabricator König.. they make seats for bulldozers and tractors and busses, cars you name it! But i stilll haven't installed them yet.. maybe when i restore the 240z again haha.. Maybe someone sat in them twice haha came out of a showmodell car.
  5. dutchzcarguy
    Hi, you must be not too big then because i really hated them when driving one time with a friends car.. they are much to high when your over 6 feet. I was hitting the roof BIG time.. Look around on your Crags list or what's it called.. you find something.. look for a seat that's adjustable. I have a special made seat in my 240z and they can be bought for small money second hand overhere.. Just measure the floor to roof and you know what seat will fit there..
  6. dutchzcarguy
    A simple test to see if your rear hatch seals are doing the job well is some small strips of paper between the rubber and the hatch door.. If you close the hatch and you can easely pull the paper out.. then you have a leak there! 😮
  7. dutchzcarguy
    Interesting.. i ask myself as i have the original part.. are the originals also coated in a weld through paint/primer? I know that i have one left skin.. original nissan with the number on it. Out of my (gigantic) foto records/archives .. i believe these pics are from that left side skin.. I hope you can use these to compare.. as i was looking for these in the files pile for 20 minutes at least pfff... 🤢 Watch careful as the top pic's are from the inside!, next one is outside.. (with the 260z partnumber.)
  8. dutchzcarguy
    Eh..?? Where are they?? Is my computer "kaput"? 😮
  9. dutchzcarguy
    Often some PO just used bigger fuses and that's catastrophical for wiring.. never ever use bigger fuses and take care of contacts because dirty contacts make heat and distroy wiring harnesses also.
  10. dutchzcarguy
    On #375 from Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883 you see a video of a manual body, and the requested location of the part!
  11. dutchzcarguy
    Hahaha... A painterdocument of 21 pages long! Well done! Now he knows what to do and what is asked from him! I told my painter... JUST paint the Damn Thing.. and do it RIGHT! I think your car is gonna be one of the best restorations! Kudos to you!
  12. dutchzcarguy
    Also.. let them know it's a re-useable box, so they don't make a mess of your engine-box!
  13. dutchzcarguy
    Put the engine on a block of wood, that's under the oilpan edge and under the standard mounts, then put it complete in a box made of plywood and do not use nails but glue it together and use screws to put it all together, make a "floor" part and a "cap" part so they can take it apart and not distroy it. they can use it again to send it back to you. you can screw the top or use bands to keep the floor and top together what ever you prefer! Nice to hear your resto is going well! 👍 Mart
  14. dutchzcarguy
    A hillbilly way to make it airtight is.. clean it.. (degrease it) then a little drop of oil but only on the middle part. then a blob of silicone or malleable glue over it. When the glue is dried open the valve by hand a few times. Leak fixed.. but this workes only on that side of the carb .. 😢
  15. dutchzcarguy
    As your parts are "not often seen parts" @HS30-H you can put them also in this topic.. 😉
  16. dutchzcarguy
    Also on that same attic (in my garage ) a brand new 300zxtt exhaust.. original nissan.. 3 pieces (mid and left and right end piece) i think that's another 3 grand? oeps!..
  17. dutchzcarguy
    That's part nr: 43 on this exploded view.. if anyone is interessted in a complete nr: 41 set of left and right. brandnew.. i got a set.. 😉 I ditched the original boxes and i have painted them an extra layer of black but they are never used complete front legs.. (sorry not for cheap..) ( Sorry, no pics of them as they lay on a attic over (above) the 4 post lift and has not easy access.. )
  18. dutchzcarguy
    Yeah, thanks! I took them (the measurements) over.. more or less from the old wheel.. i drawed some lines on my wheel and took a black&decker-powerfile to make the "fingers" turned out to be more easy then i thought it would be.. i got a perfect grip on the wheel.
  19. dutchzcarguy
    Nice! Looks a bit like mine that i made myself.. (i prefer my light color.) I made a matching shiftknob on a lath from the same mahogany wood as the wheel. Does the wheel have the ridges for your fingers, can't see them in your pic's? You can clearly see the "fingers"in the wheel.. much apriciated as there is no powersteering! It's made of 12 pieces of mahogany wood.. some waterresistant wood glue and some 2 comp. glue to glue it to the steel wheel inside.
  20. dutchzcarguy
    It's the smallest ring that has some damage.. i would paint that one black and polish the rest.. you be surprised how nice they are when polished. All that green stuff is removed easely.. (it's the copper in there that makes them greenish..) Take a small drillbit in your small powerdrill and put some cotton around it and polish away..
  21. dutchzcarguy
    Nothing fake about that chrome.. it's real chrome!! (it's damped (Vapor deposited?) on the plastic..) btw.. i don't know if the knob is removable, take some good lighting and a lot of patience, maybe you see how it's constructed.. and see a way out.
  22. dutchzcarguy
    I think these Japanese cars have the metric system on wiring.. so you need 2,5 mm2 wires for the headlights, actually 2 mm2 would be sufficient but i think they are 2,5mm2 (house wiring over here is often 2,5mm2.. good for 16 amps) If you are gonna use the H4 lamps of 65 watt a piece then you have no trouble at all.
  23. dutchzcarguy
    Yeah right!
  24. dutchzcarguy
    It says: "Remove brake drum adjust hole plug" What beautiful english... 🤬 I would say: Remove plug out of brake drum adjust hole.. 😮 ( Because i would name the thing that's meant, first.. You guys.. tell me what is the better english? )
  25. dutchzcarguy
    There should be a hole (on the flat front of drum) that is (possibly) closed with a sort of lead.. through that you can alter the brake.. see service manual.. but i would hit the front from the drum with a hammer.. just light hits all over them.. maybe some heat helps too?
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