dutchzcarguy

Yeah.. what i thought.. can it be that your vacuum in the distributor is defect..

Thanks for the picture! Is this just a pic found on the internet or from a member on this site? Would like to see what kind of turbo he has installed there. I wonder also what those (fuel?) lines are on the air intake tube? Injection? (seen left of the gauge)

Till last week i didn't want to chase rust on my 240z.. hahaha... now i took it to a friend for a check ( as my 280zx is on my own lift..) and it had a few holes after 22 winters of use.. not bad.. in the dog legs as you guys call it.. Maybe repair it next year.. not a lot of motivation on this side... 😫 Also behind the lower part of the front fender there is a lot of rot.. pfff.. repaired those 25 years ago.. and are very rusty.. Your work looks good, just be sure not to spray any sinkpaint over rust because it will rust anyway. only clean steel will accept the paint good. Take your time and brace, brace brace... when taking out big pieces.

Eh.. yeah.. normally a no brainer but if your not a electrician even remotely... let someone else take a look.. If the red and green are the up and down wire of the antenna.. put those on the outer 2 connections of the 3 from the switch. The middle one gets a pos or minus depending on what your antenna needs to go up or down. See service manual or product papers from the new antenna.. (These are plus i think because the antenna used in these cars is chassis is negative.) AND..what?? 🙂 (white?) 🙂 Original the blue wire is the antenna up/down.. i think? pos. 12 v is up on that wire and 0v is down.. You need a 12v+ to the (P) contact in the middle of the switch to make it work.. (get it from the fusebox or a existing wire that was used for the old antenna.)

And.. it has to have a auto return to the (middle) off position! So the plus 12 v is on the P-contact (most times the middle one on back) and the UP and LOWER signal cables are on the other 2 contacts.

yup...😢

Maybe i was not clear about my solution.. don't know.. but a euro version has NO evap-TANK at all!! Simply connect the end of tank exit to the filler opening's neck and close all the others i guess.. i did.. don't know..long time ago.. (i do have a usa calif. car 240z)

It says high pressure.. and if i search the number it says: Nissan high pressure pump for special engines.. (whatever that is!) But i think it's a pump that gives more volume per min-1. So it can lube the engine AND something else as well.. like a turbo.

Brand new IN the original packing, A high pressure oilpump for any L20-L24-L26-L28 engine. (Used for special engines that have a turbo for example.) Part Nr: 15010-A1110

And, did you investigate ? Still working on this 240z?

Yeah, i remember it too. It's "my new z" from Rabbitz.. i guess he's still praying for some new miracles.

My feb 1971 had a plastic one, i kicked it out as it had a crack! I turned it into a euro version tank inlet/airvent. 🙂

Next step is a camera.. to look if your already a sleep and shuts off the tv...

Yeah.. television has come a long way since i repaired my first b/w Philips TV! (this was in 1977.. i was 16! .. now am 61.. pfff.. and A LOT tv's further!) I watch a lot of youtube on my 4k tv and often amazed about how sharp these tv's are these days..

I think that there are people now in Denmark that feel a bit ashamed.. when i look how that part needs a lot more attension. (left edge is terrable..) But yeah, one does not have to start from plain flat steel sheet! Eh.. europarts? denmark?

Yeah, they have the precise size on them and all 6 are the same 1mm oversize. the styrofoam box is nothing special, just a box that keeps moist out as there are a lot of inner engine parts in the box. I sprayed the parts with WD40 to keep them away from moist. I don't think it's a problem to use these 6 in a engine. the one with the green ring is just a newer type i think. If i ever gonna use them i first have a talk about these pistons with a machinist, the cylinders have to be bored/honed anyway.

If i had some perfect, undented, ORIGINAL nissan fenders.. wow.. i mean i have sold a very nice aftermarket set (Black dragon copy's) for around 1400 dollar/euro and you could get twice that money for them.. I would like to see some original wrapped fenders from Nissan!

These pistons are lying around for over 35+ years in a special styrofoam box, incl. lots of L24 inner parts.. What is the most used oil ring.. in the L24? left or right one?

Yeah.. but i think that's only some preservative paint stuff.. you mean the green on one of the ring's on the right piston.. should be no problem. After cleaning with some solvent these will be metall color i think?

I "ran" to my 240z and took a look.. Your distributor is on like mine.. plate (with degrees) in front and mounting bolt at the rear .. so okay.. Change the inner electronics first with the mech. contacts from the other distributor. Always change one thing and test, so we all know what the culprit was! 😉 Always test with a warmed up engine.

In my serv.man. it says: (page EM20) it should be on 11:25 hour and smaller bow-shape should be facing towards the front.. so.. it looks good! Why a engine does not run perfect, there are a lot of reasons.. change the sparkplugs or the wiring or the distributor, use fresh fuel.. these days the fuel can be the problem as there is some E10 in it and cause misfires? lots of reasons... Distributor and ignition coil original or aftermarket (junk? oeps...😢) Old contacts or no contacts but aftermarket eh... "replacements"? Yeah, i'm a fan of original ignition.. with contacts.. as i'm driving only 1-2,000 km a year.. last year i renewed the contacts on my 240z after over 20000km.. was still good but replaced them.

Here a set of 6 (5+1) 1mm oversize original pistons for L24 (2393cc) engine Nissan! From the left one i have 5 and the right one.. Why the oil-ring is different on this piston.. i don't know, maybe someone can tell me what's standard in the L24? Is it the left or right one or are both used in the L24? I don't think it's a problem to use them all together (mixed) in one engine.. They are brand new, included are the piston pins and (Nissan) rods. Just a little dirty.. There is a little bit oil on them just to keep them preserved. What's the difference between these oil- rings seen here?

Yes, i thought something like that... but what kind of 4 barrel carb should then be installed between these two parts... i never had a 4 barrel in my hands or seen one live! Hahaha... it's not Japanese so i don't know them haha..

Mmm..yeah.. that's the 1 million dollar question.. I have to investigate. (as i'm no longer able to work and live from a small income i have to ask top dollar.. sorry) but i think the part (i assume your talking about the 3 fixtures for the rear licenseplate lighting and not about the special bumpers.) i think they are over 500 even over 800 euro.. i don't know but have to investigate.. I see that jdm parts does not list 1! And on ebay...pfff.. well.. a used (FAR from perfect plastic/rusty used upper light costs $425,- I think the one that's perfect (middle one) is worth about 1250 euro/dollar. Here a used upper lighting fixture.. Datsun 240Z License Plate Light Assembly OEM. All Original Lights Work Perfect | eBay Oh oeps.. other question.. what other parts i have? haha.. what do you need.. i have a giant stash of parts.. Bartscooterservice not far from me always calls me the horder! 🤣 I've been looking for Z-parts since i bought my first Z in 1991.. and do not regret it! 😁

mmm.. no don't think so.. there would be something for the exhaust manifold too, it's just to replace the 2 carb's by one big one.. Would be nice though .. a turbo on my 240z! Making even more people crazy here! 🤣