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dutchzcarguy

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Everything posted by dutchzcarguy

  1. dutchzcarguy
    I think the outside lacquer is much newer than the inside lacquer, don't forget next year that paintjob would be 50! years old.. If you zoom in on the split just under the window sticker saying: 3-23 you see some small spot with the old paint that has faded
  2. dutchzcarguy
    Hi, Maybe take a look into a service manual of the 280zx, i know there are special books about the engine and ignition and also a special about the whole injection and ignition maintenance/dial inn..
  3. dutchzcarguy
    @Zed Head hihi.. funny detail .. some hose clamps on the mirrors.. to keep them adjusted.. There is a screw on the inside of the foot of those mirrors to correct the stifness of the mirror.. (My 280zx has the same simple mirrors i believe.)
  4. dutchzcarguy
    I don't know... maybe on one of the (side) valves of the heaterunit in the dash? I know something like that it also on one of the main valves in the heater/cooling unit in the dashboard but it's about 4 x bigger..
  5. dutchzcarguy
    Maybe send it inside a plastic (electric) pipe? (Lightweight!) If it does not fit heat the pipe so you can make it fit! 3/4 or 1"will fit.
  6. dutchzcarguy
    Do this.. as the stainless is very thin.. no one will notice that tiny pixel.. on the trim. GOOD job! 👍
  7. dutchzcarguy
    I don't have/use patreon .. it's like a sort of facebook but the russian version or so? Is it safe????
  8. dutchzcarguy
    I think @Mike This topic should be placed in the "Resources" under Knowledge base. Titled "one of or the best restoration of a Datsun 240z" What do you guys think? Every aspect of restoring a car is in the vid's! It's a perfect guide for someone that wants to restore a car perfectly.
  9. dutchzcarguy
    I don't know .. but it sure makes ME Twitchy!! 😁 (Yeah i know it's only me that does not like pertronix under the hood! The only place for it is in the BIN!)
  10. dutchzcarguy
    Simple said.... you lieve the screw on the outer cable alone! The screw on the INNER steel wire THAT's the screw that adjusts the choke..
  11. dutchzcarguy
    Oh boy... If you unscrew the cables there will be NO movement.. you have to make sure that the chokes bottom out (NO shoke) then put the choke knob in the almost close position (Like 3-4 mm off the closed position..) them screw the cables tight and if you then pull the choke they will come ON.. (enough) (You must be a theoretical physicist hihi... 🙊)
  12. dutchzcarguy
    I'm sorry but i don't know what you mean here.. That's normal! If i pull my choke all the way on my 240z it's at 2500 rpm easely.. just don't! 🙂 The choke is there to get it started when cold (weather) After start push the choke back to about 1200/1500 rpm depending on the cold.. (Not very cold overthere i guess Panama?) As i said, a little slack should be in both cables but there should be some reaction f you pull the lever halfway or even on half an inch..
  13. dutchzcarguy
    Wow... that's too much slack.. let's say a few mm. or as the americans say: 1/4 inch on the lever.. You can wiggle the lever in the beginning without reaction near the carbs.. then it's okay, when you pull the lever half an inch then you must see a reaction.
  14. dutchzcarguy
    Indeed, that looks perfect.. Does it stick really well? i mean is it very sticky and does it get off very difficult when you found it was not good enough? Does it have the exact width or did you have to cut it in size? It will have to prove itself if it stands time.. but for now it's looking good.
  15. dutchzcarguy
    Thanks to a good capacitor i did 20000km on one set of points and they looked still good but i changed them anyway..
  16. dutchzcarguy
    Ask yourself the question, where for is a airfilter.. to block air? No.. just to keep dust (and all other debre) out of the engines cylinders.. If you drive the car on a "clean"day without a sandstorm.. it will be no problem.. When engineers fidle on engines half of the time the filter is not in place.. Just remember that it's there for protection of the cylinderwalls and stuff. If the air around the car was always clean you wouldn't need a airfilter. Hey Gundee, i get that you want a faster car (By removing the airfilter) but in a autocross (With lots of dust!) I especially would use the filter as the cars in front of you make a lot of dust... or.. do you always drive at the front? 👍
  17. dutchzcarguy
    Just remember.. always take some pictures BEFORE taking it/something apart and yes.. everybody thinks i remember how it was... most don't haha.. so take pics from every angle. Better to many pics then to few! As to answer your question: Opening the screw on the inner cable should be enough to feel if the choke bottoms out.
  18. dutchzcarguy

    L20b Cody's Goon

    dutchzcarguy replied to Patcon's topic in 510

    If the inside is going from 1.25 going to 2.5 inch.. the cross section will be even 400% according to my calculations.. (CS= (Pi) 3,14159265 x diameter squared.)
  19. dutchzcarguy
    Congrats Steve, Nice car with a special color these days.. i would have gone for the blue one.. but they are no longer available overhere!! A 240z was in the us a 3500 dollar car overhere they were 21000 guilders about 7000 US$ ! a 300zxtt was about 35000$ in it's time? Over here... pfff... i got a bill of 173300 guilders with my 300zxtt.. about 75000US$ ? A 370Z was at the end over 100000 € .. now a Nissan Z would cost easely over 120000 € So.. be aware your very priveliged to have such a beauty! Hope you have a LOT of fun with it! 👍
  20. dutchzcarguy
    Mustache bar .. i don't know but the diff mount you can order a new one at nissan for as far i know.. (For a 240z i don't know if the 280z is the same.) I do have a new diff mount rubber for my car laying around. could look for a number on it if you need it. (Personally i HATE poly in places where rubbers where.. especially a diff can give strange noises through the mount to the body..) Maybe untightening the diff mount just for a test is a easy thing to test.. don't forget to tighten it up again!
  21. dutchzcarguy
    If the rubber lines are in good condition, no problem, if they are damaged by the plyers they were already not save to use anyway.. Maybe use a bit of cardboard between the line and the clamping plyers. (Also attach those plyers on a rope or something that they not interfere with driving and if they fall off you wont have to go look for them or buy new ones!) And as you said you will always have the front brakes.. and the front is used for braking about 60-80%! you barely notice the difference!
  22. dutchzcarguy
    So you only hear it while braking light? It must be IN the brake drums.. Maybe you didn't install the springs the right way in them? check the service manual! Is the noise always there and not loud or only louder while braking? If not found put some locking pliers on the rubber brakelines and test again.. watch OUT !! test on a save road as your rear brakes are not working now.. but if the sound is still there you KNOW that it's not the brakes!
  23. dutchzcarguy
    I don't know if the black stuff is hard enough for it but have you tried a "caramel"- disk? These things i used once to remove striping on a perfect painted car, went very well! Here a example if you don't know what a caramel disk is.. is a dutch firm.. doubtless these are also available in florida! CROP | Dé beste Paint & NonPaint Store van Europa
  24. dutchzcarguy
    I really hate firms like Amazon! They abuse workers and kill the market for small firms.. so don't buy it there if you can.. Amazon= abuse!
  25. dutchzcarguy
    2 Oz Eclectic Products 380100 Seal-All All Purpose Contact Adhesive | Adhesives, Hobby & Repair, Specialty | Paint Supply (I can't see the price at amazon as it can't get shipped to my location, is the mentioned price in my link sheaper?) And that was 2 months? 😉
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