dutchzcarguy
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Everything posted by dutchzcarguy
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Why the Ebay one is cheaper.. From the ebay site: This gun is made from a cast and is not milled (machined) like the DeVilbiss guns that cost hundreds of pounds. This keeps the cost down but means that there are minor imperfections where the casts are joined together. This is merely aesthetic. The functionality of the internals are top class. Years ago i heard that DeVilbiss had a lot of trouble with fake sprayguns.. I wouldn't be surprised if these ebay ones are totally fake. -
Ah... painting a car is easy, you just have to put on paint everywhere with the same thickness.. Just kidding.. if you can do that it's far from enough.. many variables are trying to make a mess of your paintjob, first look A LOT of you tube videos about painting it helped me.. I painted a car and only had 1 bad spot.. and that one i knew what went wrong and came out easy.
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I've got a 40-50 year old aerograph .. it's a little gun just for painting a roof/door/fender.. i found out that it is the far predecessor of the DeVilbiss! You could go for a good pro gun secondhand..?
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Ehmm.. arn't those rubber pipes the extra airinlet's from those cold air inlets you can open from those pull-knobs... under the dash? (both sides.) It was only last week i asked myself why are those openings even there in the cowl finisher? (Air for inside is pulled through the inner fenders not the cowl.. (hope i say this right?) )
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Btw.. it's a good way to prevent a robber from stealing your car while standing before the traffic lights! Pump the clutch 3 times and get out! He will not get away with it!!!
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I once had the problem that if i "pumped" the clutch a few times (very fast) , while having a new type clutch slave-cylinder on a early 1971, the clutch became constant detached! I had to bleed the slave-cylinder to get it working normally again.. so if you want to test this, keep a wrench handy! (12mm i believe..) Love to hear if there are more cars that have that "problem" ? (just pump the clutch three times.. haha)
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Interesting.. (Also for @Yarb) Mine are a bit rusty in that area.. but as i learned to make some for my 280zx i think i can make also some for my 240z.. The problem there is that it's 2 layers of steel .. and thats aways going to be a rust problem.. maybe take some of the orignal inside layer out clean it completly and close it with some sealer?
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If it was the needles, clean the carbs with carbcleaner and/or replace the needles..
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It can also be a clogged needle in the float chamber. you can check that with a piece of hose and blow through them.. ( the chambers have an air outlet and you can hear the air blow when you do it with a compressor!) If you can't blow through them with your mouth then use air from the compressor and afterwards you can blow through them with your mouth! Now they are open. (no fuel in the bowls is also a clue.) Check your pump first with a bottle on both sides and let the pump put in from one to the other.. if the pump does work your carbs are clogged up or have worn needles in the bowls.
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If you remove the valve cover and set the cam lobe in the far off position you can simply "pump"the pump by hand and see if it pumps fuel.. (I got a original new in box pump from nissan if you need one but it'll cost yeh 250 euro.. excl transport/shipping.)
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Wow, now just arrange a flight to bangkok, Taiwan! Does Fedex go there? I tried to look on that website for more parts/prices but i don't like the set up of the site..
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As i'm in the proces of putting in a clean L28 in my 280zx.. i see your L28 has no heatshield under the inlet manifold? Is that not neccesary? Maybe you can make one? cleaned up parts (incl. heatshields)
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Typical dutch young girl but.. no never seen her.. Much to young for yah! (or me) ( I could put a picture of a granny here but i don't want to mess up this topic haha)
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Oh.. so funny! Now i know again why i'm on my own... no missis to say it can't be my way.... That's also.. i think... why there are so much LAT relationships in the Netherlands.. (and a shortage of houses! ) ( I don't need to explane what LAT is? as it is a english abbreviation of: living apart together.. and yeah.. Dutch is full of english words.. and abbrev's ! ) I investigated (googled 😃) a bit and 45% !!! of the Dutch population is single! On 7,8 million households there are 3 million single households !!! so.. i'm not alone!
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I almost feared that question would come up... What the ..... should i say.. On one hand i like to sell it.. but in these days it's very impossible to say the right price.. as i sayd i sold a set 240z and they are now for sale for 3500 dollar? or euro i don't know but prices are crazy. First things first.. Yarb must say i don't want them.. then i can sell to others.. (as he was first to ask.) Then i have to unpack them and make a lot of pics and make a price.. that can be between 1200-3000 euro? i simply don't know.. (these parts are part of my retirement money/income 🙂 as i'm a bit disabled since 1999 workaccident.. i have to make money out of what i got.. Also sell to the highest bidder.. I find this always difficult. I also like you could look around on Ebay. but then again i know that plastic is very brittle in the states and these were here in a sellar/storage for many many years and are very good.. difficult to compare.. I looked around just now and saw this: Tail Light Set for Datsun 260Z 280Z 1974-78 NOS – JDM CAR PARTS (jdm-car-parts.com) Those are just the light units, mine are complete.. by the time i buy those i'm at 1500 euro easely.. (customs in europe are no picnic.) I looked but can't find the trim of the rear lights noware.. (Really good ones)
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this one 65 dollars and looks very original to me.. Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 1970-78 reproduction 5 Speed Shift Knob mahogany | eBay
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HAHAHAHA... In third i go to prison as well !!! My standard 240z does 150kph in third.. how i know i tested it this last weekend! (Top is around 210kph.. Bart can ensure that hey Bart?) (Where was it i tested?? The autobahn.. Germany! (I always say that haha..))
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Yeah.. and under a umbrella when things start to fly..! NO.. just kidding.. i don't think things immediately jump out.. read the tread about it first careflly and you know what to do.. When i go restore my 240z i will bring relais into the headlight circuit because those switches are first very expensive and the contacts are not up to the job (full amps from the 2 lamps is to much.. ) Better to use a relais for the front headlights.. unless there is something available in LED. ( by that time...) I rarely drive for a hour in the dark but after a half an hour i can smell the contacts hahaha...
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I'm looking for them many years .. i once found some but they were stupid expensive.. i need 2, 5 speed top inserts.
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I first would have liked to see pics of the contacts of that switch.. before buying it.. most are half way gone. i don't like the stuff they sell on Ebay.. When the switch is not clicking/feeling right it IS the culprit most times.. it needs to have a sharp click in it. You can take it apart but some experience on objects with springs in it comes in handy
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Yeah a REPLICA and it costs 355 dollar ??? huh?? A original was cheaper i think.. but then again.. prices have gone through the roof.. 🙈
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I only have left a set of rear 240z lights from france! What the H... is that i hear you say... these lights have only top red and bottom orange, no back-up white lights! I think i use these if i ever get to restore my 240z for the second time. (after i finish the 280zx enginebay now in progress) I have seen those lights also in canada or so? On early 240z"s i am not sure.. When you put euro or JDM units in a USA car you have a lot of wiring to do as the euro version uses a 3 pole alarmlightswitch on the dash were a USA has a 9 pole i believe (or 8?) It has to do with the fact that the brake lamps are also the indicators.. makes it complicated and you need a extra wire with the euro jdm version.. For 260z or 280z i got a very nice set left in euro version.. it's the set on the first pic on this topic. I have sold 240z rearlights in top condition for 1500 euro.. years ago! just you know these are also quiet expensive as they are in boxes for decades now.. (came from a euro (NL) 260z that never came back on the road and was sold in parts..) I must say if Yarb is interested he asked first.. and we know.. i make/show you, a LOT of pics! before i send something across the big pond.. haha.
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I;m sure to get Fedex or DHL next time because when i got someone on the phone to inform me how i can send a giant parcel/package to the US i got a woman that had her first day at work and ABSOLUTELY no clue about sending something abroad! pff.. then she sayd i give you my boss.. (she was saying that a lot i think) you guessed right.. after a long wait i got nobody and threw the phone aside.. then the box was to big sayd the website then i made it smaller then it was okay by the website, no protests.. then it costed 80 dollars or so less as they sayd in the first place then later on i got a letter that the box was to big! around 2 and 4 cm say about an inch! Haha.. yeah it's a very good company (Pure sarcasm..) Now they want 200 dollars because i sayd the box was 45 instead of 42 cm wide.. hight was 75 cm and when it got in the states it was 79 cm.. yeah they eat a lot on the flight i think.. 😂
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Found some pics also you can see here the diff. between euro and USA type! usa.. Difference between euro and usa.. both right hand units.. right hand outer part.
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this guy has a pic of the original 5 speed knob, Bart.. Zbred: Goodbye 240Z (s30zed.blogspot.com) Here they are.. I made one myself on a lathe but miss the top plastic piece with the doulble H and numbers.. the 10 is for ten years of (resto)work Hahaha.... The plastic chrome part under it i installed that later. it has the thread M8x1,25 (i believe) in it..
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