dutchzcarguy

I bought a new set of (whole engine)seals for my 280zx and there where no longer metal parts in the in/out seal.. they say it's better that way.. i will know.. in a few years.. i hope.. when i get these IN this year.. Btw.. to check the flatness of your exhaust header, take a thick peace of glass and some abrasive material (like where you clean/polish with in the kitchen). Go over the glass with some abrasive on it with the exhaust header. you can see the un-flat spots in a minute (or 5.. 😉 )

Me to, funny enough it's in a red little bottle overhere.. I use a very little drop on many bolts big and small. Never had a loose bolt ever. 1st, your welcome Cliff, and 2nd, most z-secrets are in the serv. manual haha.. The biggest job is to get people to READ it.. instead of skimping..

Yes i know .. but i found out that if you use silversand (very fine sand) and a high pressure washer with a special tool on it you can wet-sand the part.. i used it on alu-rims and it works very good. Only thing is you need a lot of sand for just one rim.. You are left with a lot wet sand on the floor that needs to get dry again before you can use it again.. I'm brainstorming to make a cabinet were i can use that special tool and use wet very liquid sand/water.. to blast more rims.. (i have about 26 rims that need a clean-up! 🙂 ) So the problem is that special tool on my pressure washer needs very dry sand, and i wonder if i can feed it with very wet sand so i can let it circulate.. It has pro's and cons.. wet sand is not dusty and saves your lungs i think? the bad thing is if you do steel it needs to get blow dryed fast or it will rust again.. Here some results.. (did these with water and silversand about 10 ltr/min and around i guess 30-40 bar (like 450-600 psi?) (My pressurewasher is around 140 bar. but the tool reduces that because of the bigger hole in the outlet) The one on the left was to far gone and just a test peace

It's then the thickness of the liquid that makes it overheating. I agree. But let one thing be also clear, a brass/copper made radiator will always be better than a aluminum one ! Brass/copper is always a better cooler than a aluminum (or aluminium) one. Only in this case of thinner (Normally also better) tubes makes it worse.. A copper radiator with bigger tubes would be the best of all. ( Sorry but .. I personally hate that alu junk .. not in my car! esp. those chinese junk rads..)

I changed the topic.. haha @siteunseen so a 260z has a diff. stick then a 240z or are there diff 240z sticks? never had that.. i remember that i had 3 the same in my stash once but were exactly the same length and looked also the same. Where from 240z cars.. My valuable lesson on Z cars is that... there are very few cars as reliable as a (good serviced) z car!! 😉 (Sometimes i think that there is no longer a firm that makes a GOOD CAR!! All that electronic sh*t is going to make them all unreliable! (I'm an (old) electronics guy myself i know what can and will !!! go wrong haha) Stuffed with computers.. bah!! I always say: a pig's rear is smarter than a computer, it knows when it has to go to the "bathroom" haha.. it takes just one (!!) "0"or "1" to mess up the whole program in a computer and that will stop your car...again! 😡

Helvetica... Switserland (swiss) coin of 10 rappen! I must have brought it home in 1986 when i was in Zürich/Regensdorf the home of Studer-ReVox! Thanks racer, you made me look/google for the 10 cent coin.. and this one came up..

I don't think that stuff is needed.. to expensive now days you have a red (pinkish) coolant that is good for nissans and never needs to be renewed unless there is a leak. It's called R12 or R12+ or R12++ also R13 your shop knows what to use for a steel or alu engine (or combination in case of a old Z car)

That MG forum has a nice write up and pics of making a wheel! I remember that is made 12 pieces and glued them later on the steel ring.. Now i would glue the wood first and make the circle with help of the wheel itself then you know that it will fit it later on.. first make the inner cut in the wood for the steel-ring of your wheel and then turn it up side down and make the inside and outside round of the front and later another one with the rear part of the wheel. remember that the steel ring lays only inside the front ring then you have enough material to make the "fingers"in the rear part.. (copy them from an old wheel) Hope to see some pics of your work!

Silver..ish. i meant.. It looks like silver/aluminum but you can weld on it.. ideal stuff..

@ArcticFoxCJ instead of the yellow paint use "silverish" paint that can be welded it's perfect for the job, you can ask a shop for welding stuff.. local. BTW... is it a 260 or 280z you are working on?

To test it can be used.. but for real use is birch much to soft.. use some oak from a old bookcase or so. (and if the test comes out great you can use the wheel!) I used mahogany. also for a gearlever knob. I made it on a wood lathe of a friend. Halfway.. lots of coats Ready.. The 10 stood for 10 years of restoring haha.. btw.. till this day i don't know where that coin comes from, have a good look and tell me .. is it a American Dime?? uh?? It's in my 240z from 2007 till today and functioning OK! Used a coin on top, and the lower part (with the threads) of a old knob.. (It's inside you can't see it.)

And a beautyful color you picked !! 😉

When i look at the pic above.... i would make a cable from the white connector straight into the motor.. all those connectors.. it's like modern cars.. to much connectors..to much failing!

Sorry but i'm not gonna read it all.. is your car a first owner car.. are you the first owner? if not you can't know where the car has been and there are always exceptions.. (Like the cars with total different serialnumbers but same month and year dates.. the factory sometimes did put cars aside and later on after "repair" they came back in the proces line..) It's possible that your cars had some extra black stuff but this does not mean they all got it..

Haha.. yeah a 2+2 but for 1000 dollars.. i think a lot of people wanted it for ... almost free!

The same here! I don't think they wanted to create something like a follow up of the s30 series.. they did that with the s130 then came the Z31 with a total new design and the z32 (300zxtt) was the following car with all the extra. It became indeed a expensive car. i remember walking into a showroom and see one for 80000 guilders (about 30000 dollar at the time i think..) for a four year old car with 80000 km on it (50kmiles) thought i never gonna afford one.. but in 2007 i bought a TT and i drive it this year for the 15th summer! Not a single hair on my head regrets buying this beaute... I bought it with 61000km and has now 86800km. there are VERY few cars that look this good..

@Reptoid Overlords i get a error on that link..

I think so to..

I don't think so if i may say.. the following statement seems more correct to me..

For as far i know the König brand is German and they make seats for almost about everything, from car,tractor till bulldozer, no idea if they still exist.. google...

It's a press fit... once opened.... yeah your f***** 🙊

It had probably a sport exhaust..? so he bought a 6500 dollar new OEM exhaust for the car?? (see pics.. of bill/invoice. Good idea!

I'm glad the more recent zx cars are going to be more apriciated to.. Wow.. new 33000 now sold for 55000 dollars.. 12k-Mile 1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo 5-Speed for sale on BaT Auctions - sold for $55,000 on July 27, 2021 (Lot #51,983) | Bring a Trailer In de states you don't get any warranty on the miles it has.. in the netherlands a yearly list is kept every year it's called NAP and tells you exactly how many km's or miles the car has done.. Also.. i wonder why a 12kmiles car needs new exhausts? Mine has done about 54kmiles (it's a km car with 86500 km) and still has the original exhausts from 1992...

I had this.. i measured 12 v on the poles but 0 volt on the connectors, there was nothing of dirt to see in the pole connectors but one was faulty! Clean them (special tool or wirebrush) and your good to go. If not.. then use a multimeter and test on your fuses when the car is not starting and flashers do not work.. oh and put some vaseline on your batterypoles and connectors..

Yes, very important to take pics from more than one view! What i wanted to ad.. there are on the column some wires that are not used i know.. they are for things your car is not equiped with.. Just test everything, lights, flashers... and if there is something not working, get a volt-meter and measure were the signal stops and test the of going wires.. look were they are going. Then there is the fsm diagram.. there are different diagrams for different cars and i always have problems with diagrams they are often for US. cars and euro cars are wired different.. In a original car i see cables that are not in the fsm.. so have patience and a bit of luck i guess.. we say: meten is weten! (translates in: measuring is knowing!)