dutchzcarguy

I'll have a look at it.. although i'm not a fan of "amazon".. ( And.. Yes the spare wheel of the later 280z and 280zx i think are exactly the same.. should be no problem.)

😂 I'm telling this to people for years now! (Goedkoop is duurkoop!) that's Dutch for cheap is expensive. But do they listen? no. A GOOD classic that is reliable costs as much as a new car.. and if you have 2 lefty's (hands) then it's double the costs..

Did'nt see this topic.. Few month's ago i asked my "tire guy" what a new tire for my 42 year old 280zx spare would cost.. oh he sayd thats the same sort of tire Porsche uses.. He sayd about 400 euro's... pfff.. no thanks i use my old one as it's not that hot overhere the tyre looks still good after 40+ years of hidding for the sun! 😉 If someone knows a good solution let me know...

Where can we get that sign? or a good - straight on - pic of it? (so we can make one ourselfs 😉 )

Although.. it saves energy for 3 x 23 Watt is you used one 23Watt lamp to get the flasher working.. let us know how the flasher works with just one 23 watt lamp (and a bunch of LED's). How much do the LED;s use? what's the total Wattage of the system.. is a interesting question..

If you want the rear are also leds, you could put some in there and leave one ordinairy lamp in the circuit just for load.. or use a resistor. That resistor should be.. normal bulb 23w/13,6 = 1,7 x2 = 3,4Amps R= U/I = 13,6/ 3,4 = 4 Ohm resistor! But watch out it has to be one of power.. P=U x I = P is 13,6V x 3,4 amp = 46,24 say 50 Watt !! Easyest is to use one or two (normal flasher bulbs) bulbs and hide them in the car behind the upholstery haha.. When you use one bulb of 23 W your interval flash will go faster.. you could also use a headlight lamp H4 or the one that was before those H4's they were 45 Watt and it will make the interval of the flash perfect i think. It ofcourse does not help with the energy saving of the leds but you got leds all around.. 🙂

I did'nt really listen but did not hear anything.. maybe it's the "selfmade" fan and axle extension.. that makes some extra noise.. (my computer has almost no sound/speakers are horrible..) Selfmade fan in pic 125! (and on.)

Take out a flasher unit and test it on the bench with a known good lamp/set of led's? (Are they made in china ? (throw 'm in the bin..))

Euro version of the 280zx never had a cat or O2 sensor.. We had only dirty cars!

Ah... Then the black pearl doors (spares) i got from a 240z (as new..) are for sure from a Dutch or at least a euro car? @Zed Head

Totally agree, But.. would it be possible to weld some extra on that exhaust header and (let it) shave flat? So that the "ring" becomes a bit wider for a better fit. He could do that? (I'm also interested because in the near furure i have to take a head apart.. 😉 )

Hi guys, This time i'm going to refresh The engine of my 280zx as i can predict that the seals and all will fail one time and i want to prevent that (after 42 years !!) So, i'm looking for a good (best) engine or headgasket set. (as i already did the crankseals i think i go for a complete head set of seals/gaskets..) I have found (local in the Netherlands) some brands.. 1. AJUSA (made in spain) makes a set for E89,- 2. Japanparts (Made in Japan? sheap junk??) E23,- (!!) 3. Glaser (no idea) E 50,- 4. ASHIKA (Japanese???) E56,- 5. Payen (Made in UK.) E65,- 6. Blue print (no idea) E143,- So i lean to a set of headgaskets from Ajusa or Ashika, Has someone the information were NISSAN got his headgaskets for the z or zx from? Last question is, how thick is a normal (orig Nissan) headgasket? (read something like 1,5 mm?? )

It comes from a Dutch 1972 240z car (sitting on a US. 240z 1971 now.) I took a look at a euro version balance tube and inlet parts in my "warehouse" and they were also E41 for the tube and E88 for inlets.. I only know it was on a Dutch 1972 240z. It had a little bigger damper sitting there but it was to damaged to restore so i used this smaller one .. I must say it did'nt work very well (it's work was to let the engine rpm's take a slow lowering so it woudn't stall.. (haha.. stall... i never stalled a 240z engine..) ) So i took it off.. it was also to damaged inside it was'nt working very well.. The last 14 years i drove without it and do not mis that thing at all. My 240z is a usa car from feb 1971 with the non emission parts of a Dutch 1972 240z that i bought in 1991 for scrap.. The Dutch car was rusted away but was an excellent car for euro parts! The usa car was from california and had a 2,5 mm floor (!!!) in it with lots of bondo to make it watertight... also the beams under the floor were NON existend!!!!! I made by hand a completly new floor in the car as it was original.. pff.. ( Lots of work but now it's made from 0.8 mm steel with zinc coating.)

Here some pic's of my 240z euro version carbs. for as far i know.. The black damper was a non orig. part (orig was a little bigger.. and passified sink.)

Totally agree! And i've seen it also, Man.. that lady gaga can sing hey!! 👍

Yeah, what i meant to say was it's LIKE a sort of olive green.. Not specific the olive green.. (and at the end what IS olive green...? british racing green is a good example i think.. also a color that has a lot of different shades.. one is lighter or darker than the other.. I've seen different brands of cars with all different colors of British racing green.)

I don't know for the early z's but later 70's datsuns had olive green brakelines for sure! Last year i restored a 280zx (1979) and it has still the original olive green brakelines Here a pic taken from the internet (from this site!) 😊

Welcome here on this site, Have you installed the right yoke .. there should be ZERO play on the driveshaft is you try to shift it from left to right..(and up and down..) Also, i think you did'nt use the right seal (twice) on your gearbox outletshaft.. (as far i know you can use the seal from a 5 for a 4 speed gearbox.) Again there should be NO play on the driveshaft it will leak oil after a short while, the new seal gets worn fast. And.. pictures can help..

That could surprise you. A friend of mine had one about 10 years ago and we, (me behind the wheel) drove it a few miles.. It was a cabriolet also red.. We are both about 6 foot 4 Hahaha can you visualise it ? It was pretty fast and thats because it's light weight.. and the bike engine has enough power in it. (It was a just new restored car and engine was top!) They have.. like a bike, chain drive you know.. hahaha

Take a round piece of hard wood (piece of your broomstick) and give the pipe some little hits with it, from the inside of the pipe.. you will get that super smal dent out.. Just carfully with small hits. 😉 (or scuff it with the wood from inside to outside.. take your time. )

Take a good look.. a spoiler was standard on a 240z in the Netherlands for as far i know. I still got one laying around on my attick from my 1972 240z Orig. Dutch car. In this pic a story of Johan Cruyff our famous eh ... football ? uh soccer! player.. (I don't give a damn about that, In fact i BLOODY HATE IT!!! ) Here some of the rest of the pages i stumbled upon haha.. Good luck with your translations hihi...😁

Besides my L24 spare block i do have another L26 with a Restored E30 ! head (No not E31 a E30!) , it came out of a Z that was souped up! Never used it myself but it looks like a nice step up.. A E30 head is the head of a L20 6 cyl. Nissan engine, and together with a L26 it makes a nice compression number around 10,5 i think? Has someone else experience with this combination L26 with E30 head? I could sell the L26 with a E30 head.. prices would be like this one i just found on the dutch marketplace: EDIT: he changed the price of 3500 euro to "bieden"( translation: make a bid.) ≥ Datsun L28 Motor Gereviseerd - Overige Auto-onderdelen - Marktplaats.nl

I remember something.. The weight on the front springs is different (on a 240z) and therefore these springs are on a different setting? Do some investigation.. the orig. springs of a 240z front have different strength's.. (not interchangeable)

All i know of a viper it has a big 8,2 ltr engine.. put some new sparkplugs in it.. (they are all old anyway.) and interchange the ignitioncoil that's on the #2 with #3 so if next time the problem is in #3 the ignitioncoil on #3 is the culprit. (i think this engine has no distributor anymore?)

That pulley (where the fan normally is on) is a bit out of line? The belt looks a bit of a ghostbelt on that pic. haha.. it's there but not completly it looks like it disappears.. You know of course those carbs are not the original ones? If it's a engine that was never apart it's time to take it apart completely and inspect every part. (install all new gaskets and oilseals!) If it's a euro version block it probably has a E88 head and about 162 hp. (But with these carbs that could be a bit less or more..) As it has a starter on it, you could do a compressiontest before you buy it, that should be around 10 Bar. (155-160 psi) and best is that every cylinder has the same pressure. Watch out the engine could get a bit jumpy when you get the starter running.. take out al the sparkplugs.. look if there was extra oil in the bores. it will influence your compr. data.. Bring a good flashlight and a full battery. 😉