dutchzcarguy

Yup.. that's why you need pics from every angle..

Like i did.. DON'T forget to shoot some ( A LOT!! of) pictures (In different angles!) how it go's together because when it's off you don't have a clue how it shoud go together.. Old.. New.. On the engine.

Glad to see you back and working on the zééé! I didn't know that the doors were already made again. How is the 280zx, still your daily car?

I must say i NEVER have seen this.. I am always amazed at how many cars in the States suffer more, due to the heat and humidity? Thanks For the pictures! Btw, your car is going to be awesome!

Well.. show me a worn lock then.. why? Because i think they are made from (high chrome) stainless.. so any lock can be polished to new after it's worn. Only when it's really scratched and dented then you need a new one.. I think, all the locks from a datsun are stainless outside.

We will SEE said the blind man, oh i'll hear from them the deaf man said.. Mmmm...

Oh, that's new to me, i guess that's a "europe" thing then? Or i'm just wrong.. i took a look in my cellar/parts warehouse and i got E88 on the manifolds and E41 on the balancetube of a euro complete manifold.. (I see 2 coolwater holes in the lower part, it would not surprise me if there are manifolds without those..

Zed... Your funny Hahahaha!! Take them off at the head! Flattops are more for the professional technicians! Get yourself some roundtops, MUCH easyer to Adjust! The manifolds for the flattops is completely different from a roundtop manifold, roundtops are never gonna fit so take it of and work on them on the bench.

You asked how to empty these carbs, you can get yourself a empty soap dispencer out the kitchen and unscrew the top and put the tube down the carb (or brakefluid container when refreshing the brakefluid for example) and the soapbottle is good to catch the oil out of your carb! I also use this trick to clean out the powersteering tank (On other cars) , You replace this ATF partial every year and the fluid stays nice and clean as you always change a part of it.. and you don't brake any bolts or get leaks of changing the oil! 😉

A pic of those special spade type and brandname would be nice as i'm also need some new ones on my tank meter connection. Btw, you have ( I see) a europe and JDM tank in your #21 comment.. Last week i bought a almost as new tank but it has a few more outlets/air exits on it as it is a american fueltank. (i seal those of as my car has already a (leaky) euro tank.)

Hihi.. btw, i;m NOT from Finland.. I'm from the Netherlands, you know, that little country with the best "chips" IN THE WORLD..? Back to the cars.. I would hope so, otherwise you wouldn't have a clutchpedal! There ARE differences in s30 (Manual) pedalboxes.

There was a belgian that said he went to the SUN! I asked.. didn't you get burned? NO he said.. we went at night..

BTW.. this is the correct(er) vid to your f-ked up not metric system hahaha... better late then never.. This guy is hilarius.. from finland.

And the answer is.... YES.. (At least between 260 and 240 has different pedalboxes!)

Maybe another swapped wire? A other solution to the problem could be replacing the electronics that was hit by the problem with the switched wires. curious what it will be! This by the way is EXACTLY THE PROBLEM WITH TODAYS CARS, they have lots of electronics in them and therefore lots of problems, i'm sure they don't get driven for over 50 years like our z's.. 😉

As yours has the intermittent wipers, it has a circuitboard with electronics.. could be there is a defect transistor that makes/has a shortcut and due to that the elec. motor keeps spinning. That's what i would look for after the pinched wires.

My simple answer.. A oilpump just needs to be driven by the engine.. there is no "timing" involved. The pressure the pump makes is going up with the engines rpm's.. that's normal, if you have a warn engine the oilpressure can get to low.. a good check for that is looking at the oil coming on the casmshaft when you turn the engine rpm's as low as 500 rpm, the cam should stay lubricated at that enginespeed, check it through your oilcap opening when the engine is idling. Your car is probably idling at a higher rpm as it is a automatic.. About that auto.. if you change to a 5 speed change the diff as well.. as a auto has a 3,5 diff of even 3,3? A 5 speed needs a 3,7 or3,9 otherwise you use a lot of clutchplates as the 1st gear becomes very long.

Hihi.. yeah that's a L.E.D. (Light emiting diode) as it probably chinese junk, they die.. I got a bulb in my car and after 53 years it still works.. put the standard bulb inthere it will work for many many years.. I;m not against led's but just against cheap junk led's.. 😉

Who told you it's a LED? If it was it would probably work.. as LED's (I'm talking about the good old led's that where around 40-50 years ago..) have a long lifespan. Normally there are candescent little lightbulbs in there. Someone with small hands and Patience can change them. maybe lying up side down in the car but it's in the blind doable.

Well if you are done with laughing, take a look at this comedians answer.. hahaha...

I Sure hope so! (I want to be in time with my solution! 😉 ) Don't even try to weld it up side down.. it's going to be a mess even when your a pro welder it will be very difficult.. better take a strip/piece out of it and make the weld from the top! (Clean the paint around it thoroughly) Also use a cotton towel that is moist to cool every spotweld you do.. take your time and it will be good! Use 0,8 mm steel.. sorry don't know what thickness it is in your measurements..)

YEAH!! That's the one!!

Hi John, If you can get those off in one part, you put them in a small container (glass) and put a lot of clothes detergent and some hot 60c water and leave them there for a week they will get unbelievable nice and soft. During the week you can heat this pot with stuff in the magnetron.. not to hot but 60 degrees celcius is fine.. you WILL be surprised! Also there is someone that makes all(most all) those rubbers of a 240z.. can't remember his name.. he is named more than once on this site.. sorry..

Hihi.. my car does not have that roller for over 25 years at least! btw.. is that the culprit why my window comes (at the top) about a quarter inch to the inside when i'm driving about or over 50mph and want to close the window.. I need to stop/ slow down, and get the window back in the good position! Then close it.. hahaha..

Hihi.. not in Fahrenheit! Lets say if you touch the aluminum wheels (somewhere in the middle) and you have to pull back fast because it feels to hot to let them a few seconds on there, that's most times to hot.. Normally if you drive an half hour with lots of hard braking you get the same result, those wheels get very hot.. (That's normal) Take a look at the container/user manual of the grease you used! It should say something about temperatures.. It does remind me of a time i drove a sunny coupe to work very fast.. When i came at the firm and stopped and got out there was a black plume of smoke over both front wheelarches! 😁