dutchzcarguy

@240zadmire You got us some pics of the whole car? (Or did i miss something somewhere?)

You did it Again!!... you put a smile on my face and i laughed out loud more than once, but telling my ....yada yada yada... no... i'm (as i asume you don't know )home alone and at the moment more than disabled.. (at the moment a Hernia.. i could barely walk, now it's luckely a bit better.. ) Oh.. let it go.. the paintjob is not perfect, so what.. nothing is.. I drive a 300zxtt a very clean nice paint car, you'r scared to park it on a lot, scared it gets dented by a cardoor.. i got a 240z with... sorry but what we call here an american paintjob.. (the red paint is so thick layered it filled the rain edge .. you know where the rain comes of the roof) and i once backed it up into my garage.. a bit speedy... and i hit some rims with the side of the 240z... it's still visible! I don't care because i know it needs a paintjob anyway.. i had more problems with the fact i scratched those rims! (red paint on them! the 1st of july my 280zx got a Dutch MOT (APK) and i drove the fresh car/paintwork backup against a GoldWing! My own one! It has a very nice paintjob but now it has a little dent after 1 day!! I let it go... i don't care (grr.. i don't care i tell myself.... LET IT GO!!! )

Yup.. orange peel can easy be taken out by buffing. These days, lots of cars have it.. (My 280zx go's to the painters for some buff work and a few dust particles, the paint is hardend now after 2-3 month's.)

now you did'nt...? (could;nt help my self..?) btw, you can buff till your weigh an ounce.. it won't go i think.. it's in the underlaying structure.. just my op.

Top tip! Or your mailadres. (a extra one you dedicate to these things.) I have'm on my wheels... just kidding... ?

Haha.. even that you Screwed up! Haha... JUST KIDDING..!! ? I found it very special... Ah ... no paintjob is perfect.. let it go.

We posted at the same time.. both talking about the 0.7 mm diff.. haha.. I once put a E30 (No not E31) A E30 head on my L24.. That gives you some compression hahaha long time ago but i remember the starter had trouble starting it! Did'nt drive very well.. few days later i blew the gasket out haha.. still learning hey...

These are NOS (new old stock) 240z original L24 pistons, they have no indents.. these are 1 mm oversize Later on i red that they also fit L26 blocks.. (New pistonset.. in stock still. just 30+ years of dust and some lube on them..) I also have a 1973 complete engine, so i could measure the diff. between those orig. and 1973 pistons, there should be a difference of 0.7 mm!

I've got a new set of original nissan oversize pistons still in stock and i don't recall they have those indents for the valves.. (i think pics of them are on page1-2 of my 280zx slick roof 1979 restauration topic) Also the "Ampco" tells me it's not stock? AMP00 is Ampco and the symbol is the NISSAN sign! ampco made these pistons for nissan i assume.. I'm almost sure i never seen pistons for z cars with the indents in the piston! So NOT OEM.

And ofcourse this oil is no where to be found in Europe.. the Netherlands to be specific? Is it General Motors ac delco 75W90 or ?? i see 10-4016 75w90 is a pure synthetic and an other one which i forgot.. i went to amazon.nl (netherlands, typed in: ac delco 75w90 and..... i got a Bosch filter... yep.. thats amazon in the Netherlands....pffff... never have and prob. never buy from amazon overhere. duhhh..

It's... to say the least.. a very different color, also it looks like it's has a very coarse grain that yellow paint and covered by a clearcoat. If you enlarge the photo (click on it) you can see how grainy it is.. It's not a metallic or is it?

You mean 15,9 Volts ?? a bit much? is that from a good meter instrument or a 5 bucks toy? ? What you could do is put the voltmeter on the starter and let someone start the car, what does the meter say? my guess is 1,2 Volts... when starting (trying to) .. clean also all grounding leads.

Clean the terminals inside also.. i had this ones, voltage on the pole 12,2V, on the terminals 0Volt! They looked very clean but there was a isolating layer of oxide between the poles and connectors! If i had'nt measured it with my meter i wound'nt have found it so fast! clean them (brush) and use some petroleum jelly (we (Dutchies) call it vaseline).

I've got exactly the same in my 240z (with a worn out euro 5 speedbox the FS5C71B which i got out of a euro 240z) Or when coming from 4 or 5 th braking hard and going to second gear... it's very much a grinder..!!! My gearbox started that years ago and now going back to 3th from 4-5th is also starting to grind. It needs a new set of bearings AND synchro's. (after 49 years!!!) Btw, what do you mean with a " A type transmission" ? an FS4W71A? Maybe @Zed Head knows where we can get a revision set for these transmissions.

I'm not sure.. but did you first install the glass with rubber, and then the trim? i had to install the rear window of a 280zx and i installed first the trim IN the rubber (which was on the glass) and then put the whole window with rubber and trim IN the rear door.. Installing the strips of stainless in the rubber is very difficult after fitting it in the car , much easier to install rubber on glass and fit the stainless in the rubber (with lots of lube) and then put it in the car. (The rear glass stainless of a 280zx is edged and impossible to fit after you fitted the glass(and rubber). I can imagine that the trim can be fitted in a 240z front screen but installing it before you put it in the car is much easier.

I know duct tape and that would'nt be good enough.. Thanks.. but i don't think we have that gorilla tape over here in europe.

I ask myself if that "gorilla tape is good for this.. does it it's work after years? i would not bett on it! Is it still closed that visor? now after 4 month's? @dmorales-bello

The holes exist .. maybe because the japanese fairlady or the 432Z had a elec. pump.. i don't know..

èhm... a 240z has NEVER had a electric fuel pump (for as far i know) so... stay with a good mechanical one. (NOT THAT AFTERMARKET JUNK! sorry but people buy a mech.pump from nowhere and for 16 dollar and expect it to be a good new pump.. that will work for another 45 years yeah right... makes me angry... sorry again.. you want junk you get junk.. a good new mech pump costs money.. i say around 150-280 dollar..)

use 10 or more feet of it.. then you have plenty of length and see the fuel coming.. it does not matter how long it is as long the end is lower than the part in the tank. even more easy when your car is on the ramp (carlift)

Yeah... OCCarpets.com Man... if you get the stuff just check what you get precisely and exact if it fits.. they gave me some carpets for a 2 seater IN a 4 seater kit..... grrr.. i discovered that after 2 years because my first painter took a lot of time.. and then did'nt finish the car.. Now painted it at a prof shop partly my self! JUST ALWAYS CHECK THE STUFF YOU GET THE MINUT IT GETS IN.. DOES IT FIT PERFECTLY..

ALU lugnuts? NEVER... I once.. almost 30 year ago had a loose rear wheel Alu-wheel on a (my first!) 280zx, i used steel lugnuts the correct ones for the alu wheel (steel) but did'nt go over 90 Nm and they came loose.. nowdays i put 100-110 Nm on them and no problem.. i can't believe Nissan uses alu nuts for something so important! (I discovered the loose wheel in time and stopt and solved it besides the road. a friend once had a old merc and shouted: Hey! i've got those wheels to! knowing it was his own wheel that came by hahaha)

I did'nt ? i mentioned BPR 6 ES .... not the (hotter) 5.. don't know where you live? May be the better plug for your enviroment..

BTW should there not be NGK -BPR6ES plugs in that engine... you use a Iridium type? any good expirience and wich ones are those?

Eh... guy's am i mistaken.. a gap of 0,32 inches is 8,1 mm! Just wanted to let know you must mean 0.032 of an inch... oh such fine stuff.... inches and miles... sorry ? (I'm metric..) (EDIT>> I did'nt read that last post.. there it's correct at 0,032")