dutchzcarguy

Nice picture! I ran to my glass store.. and yep! It has 20 lines also..

Wow... some bondo there!! I ones restored a door where i hit the underside door with a hammer.. a piece of bondo broke of about 2 by3 inches big!! came from a California-car! Hi .. Ive got a Original new 240z/260z doorskin, years ago bought it from a ex-Datsun/nissan dealer. It's possible it has the 260z partnumber on it.. but it has a orig nissan partnumber on it. If i had a micrometer i could tell how thick this orig. one is.. :-( Another question, does someone have the colorcode for this type of (260z) wheels? It's a blue-ish dark grey i see on my originals.. (the pic shows a restored wheel by a Nissandealer where i saw this one.)

Is your new (but not Original) seal thicker than the one that came out there? (hope you still have the old part..) In this time of many aftermarket parts.. maybe the new seal of bearing is .5 mm bigger and thats a problem..

In this topic you can put parts with (real or unreal) high prices people ask these days for Datsun z (and zx?) parts.. Reason is i got a set of 240Z AND 260Z doors… The 240z door set is in still Original black metallic without rust! and the 260z set is with new doorscins (one is on the door already, the other comes with a good door.) (Not complete doors only the metal part, no glass or handles and..and…) One time i askt 600 euro for a door.. i got questions like: are they made out of gold? To tell you the truth, here in europe a door is no where to find… i'm not selling but what i ask myself is: what's the price in the U.S of A on a very good door (one with no rust or dings in it!!) ? Another one… A early as new rear window glass with naturally vertical heaterwiring in good condition! What do you think or "have seen price" .

By turning bench ? Bart means a Lathe.. Oh and by the way, how did you know the castlenut had to be fastened to 70 Nm? just kidding!! ... as they say: just busting your chops (of zoiets.. ?)

Glad to say: Euro version does not have that (crap).. haha. the only dual filament bulbs are the running light/brakelight. (and some people manage to push the bulb so hard into it's filament that the brakelight becomes the running light and viseversa.. watch carefully the side tabs on the bulb.. they differ in hight position on the fitting. When you push them in and turn it has to go easy.)

Side markers that brighten when braking?? Hahaha… somebody has made some changes in the elec. cables and you must have side marker bulbs with double connections on back? huh???

Yes.. btw.. i didn't look into a elec. diagram but know there are a lot of wires onthat hazard switch..?

If you switch your alarmlights a few times on and off.. it's might be possible they work again.. the alarmswitch has many connections involving the brake and direction lights cables.. A euro car's alarm switch has only 4 or 6 conn. a USA model has 9 connections..! ( in a USA car the brakelight wiring go's through the alarmlights switch..)

In my old L24 i glue'd it with some 2 component steel glue. Also only the short little pipe on one end. (near windscreen) It (glue) is very strong and can take the heat.

The Horns are working again! Take the 6 screws out (on the front) at the edge, NOT the middle one.. leave that one in. There is a contact under the small steel bridge.. this bridge is adjustibke by the screw on the back. Clean the contact and adjust the screw on the back out.. In my case there was some sand or grit between the contacts, clean it thoroughly. put it al together and connect it to a battery or pwrsupply. (12v at least 3 A) then adjust the screw on the back in so it sounds as it should… paint it and ready to install.

Many years ago, a man came to me with these …. He sayd that the carbs where off every few weeks after adjusting them…. and it IS !! a imposability to tune them, the only way is after a complete revision.. get yourself…. ehhh. ehhh.. an injection kit? (proest)…. But seriously… they don't call them boat anchors for nothing.. the time you could get a z car running for few bucks is long gone..

Agree, Get a (empty old) handsoap pump and pump the most out... ( i Always use this when i renew the brakefluid! .. you take the pump out of the bottle and pump the fluid into the same bottle.. this way you don't make a mess with that brakefluid (or in your case the oil)) (When doing the brakes then you don't have to pump all the oil through the system and you can start with a container full of clean brakefluid.) ?

The horns were sandblasted.. they don't work any longer .. ? (very dark olive green ones... is this correct for a 280zx 1979.. YES! ) Question: has someone taken them apart already? (don't need to invent the wheel 2 times..) is it the sandblasting material that gets into a contact or so inside? does someone know an answer how to fix these low and high both are dead.. ( meter says open contact..)

Sounds like dried up fuel in your injectors.. pull the injector(s) and clean with carb cleaner or other solvent.. after a long sit, the injectors stay closed.. test them with a 9 volt battery (small type you find in a fire detector or so) NOT with the car battery YOU'LL SMOKE THEM... You can also take e'm all out and (try to)start the car, i think they won't fire any fuel.. (put the injectors in a glas) Also now you can renew those old most times fully deteriorated seals.. Mart

This is certainly true for many parts..

Congratulations To all.. Does remember me of achieving my own degree in electronics.. in 1985.. every time i see a diploma.. That last year we started with 28 then 4 fell off, (in the first few weeks) of the left 24 there went 14 to the exams.. and only seven succeeded for their diploma! fortunately i was 1 of the seven.. Still know the date, june 19th. why? half an hour after i heard i was graduated i got the news my mother died on a day out.. she never knew.. that day i think turnt within that half an hour from the best into the worst ever.. Sorry for this heavy story, hope no one has to endure this ever..

After 40+ years the rubber hose on the filler tank inlet gets hard and does no longer make a solid fuelproof connection to the tank, especially when you've take it apart once.. (ask me how i know ?) Just put enough gas in it, not completely full unless your going to drive a 20+ miles after filling right away. In europe we don't have the expansion tank so i removed that leaky stuff.. I've seen those tanks with cracks.. logical after 40+ years in contact with gas.. Remove or renew.

One thing i'm shure, NOT in the Netherlands, why Clarion? I Don't know, but there were NO Hitachi's in the (few dilivered)Dutch 240z's They where Clarion with DATSUN on the dial. (Next to also the name Clarion) Had 5 presets and only AM. And i think the German cars were the same clarion.. Can someone from Germany chip in?

Oeps that's a 1000 euro for a radio that (in europe) receives… eh.. almost nothing, because overhere there are very few AM stations left.. i tested one (and sold one) with a test transmitter i have on my radio/audio repair desk .. (it transmits from 200kc till over 100 Mc.) These Clarion's have DATSUN on the dial glass and 5 presets and only AM also known as MW (what stands for the german words: "Mittel welle" what could be translated to: medium wave. )

And remember.. Hitachi is USA.. on European ground the 240z had Clarion radio's standard they were only AM and no auto tune..

Left one is for ride hight and right one is for mach 1 speed...

(Sorry in advance but can't help myself..) The right one is for your front carb.. and the left one is for the rear carburetor.. this is made this way for if your front part of the engine is already hot due to the Sunshine.. No no..Now for real.. left is choke ( ofcourse for both carbs) , right is your gaspedal.. for controlling it by hand.. Only the first year (or the first 1,5 or so..) had the right lever.. my feb.1971 has had it .. but when its older it can get dangerous.. so often it is removed..

gonna clean them chemicaly.. (left one is still a bit dirty..) but overall not bad. VUIL ? … means Dirty? Yeah it's Dutch.. keep on smiling!