Marine240z

Thanks for all your comments and advice. I do agree with Zed that Pertronix has gone to a "quantity" vs quality type of manufacturer. I have done just about everything to figure out this problem. Various coils, various coil outputs ( 1.5 vs 3.0) resistor vs non-resistor, wiring upgrade etc. The results are the same, ignitor failure at some point. Going through my records there have been FIVE over the past two years. Thanks goodness for Amazon's great exchange/return policy. I will review and research all the excellent recommendations by everyone and keep you posted. Thanks Lon

Thanks C man. Decisions, decisions. lon

hi pat, what system did you end up going with?. I am debating going back to points thanks lon

Thanks Lon

Hi all. I keep having the same issue post install of my #1761 pertronix ignitor. It is coupled with the blue Bosch 3.0 coil and resistor bypass. I have also installed a new alternator and double checked the wiring throughout. The problem is as follows: After install car runs perfect no miss, strong power, tach fine. After about 3-4 days and numerous start-ups, the ignitor dies and stops sending electricity to the plugs. This is the third ignitor and I took it my mechanic who installed this most recent one. After starting and stopping it approximately 6 times ( idle for about 30 min. ea session) the ignitor died. We are clueless why this is happening, any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreaciated. Thanks Lon

OEMZ, I agree, take your time visit all the potential sales avenues, check out Craigslist in surrounding cities close to you, just put "Datsun 240z" in the search box. Bring a Trailer auctions on the web is great too. Go to that site and look up past Z's that have sold. Pay attention to the comments section at the bottom. It provides a wealth of knowledge from others. It took me almost a year to find mine. The wait will be worth it. Put some extra $$ aside wile you are looking and purchase one that is rust free or as close to it as possible. Maintenance records are a bonus as is location of car. A crack free dash is a great indicator of a car that has been well taken care of.

That price should get you a well sorted rust free 70-73 Z. Expect to pay 23-35 K for one that meets all your criteria which should also include crack free dash, numbers matching. I would not take less than 30 K for mine if it were on the market. At 130 K miles on my early 1972, I decided to do a complete front to back mechanical refurb, of the trans, entire motor, SU's, updated to a period performance ABARTH NOS free flow muffler system, suspension etc. The only mods were that I installed a slightly aggressive cam, port polished the E-88 head, increased the bore from 83 to 83.75, supplemented the fuel delivery system with an electric fuel pump. I also completely refurbished the entire A/C system which included a custom hand built hi performance evaporator from Auto AC systems out of Graham, TX. It's almost too cold. Good luck on your search! Few pic's in Gallery under GOT Z

Yes, it's a good stable mate for the Z. Both give a different type of driving pleasure. Refined German engineering vs raw Japanese 70's roadster driving that demands more attention when taking things to the edge of the envelope.

Charles, love Spartanburg, great city. I grew up in Beaufort, our football team used to make the trip to both Charleston and Spartanburg to get our "low country" asses kicked. We were always in awe of the football stadium there and in Summerville. I was up that way last year when we took the long way home from an annual Porsche 928 get together in Elk Mountain, N.C. Need to take that kind of road trip in the Z...

Jim, Charles, I* did not make it to Z Conn ( at least not in person), but as I said, I purchased my complete ABARTH muffler system from a vender who was there. I only mentioned it in case someone else had seen the mufflers while attending the event. I saw all the picks that everyone took, it looked like a real Z love fest! Thanks for the pic Jim. I will use it as a guide should it become necessary to revert. I am going to do the dyno first and run a laser temp sensor on each cylinder to check out the temp. range. I will let everyone know the results. Thanks for the input I hope to meet up with everyone in the near future. Lon Davis Kingwood

I upgraded to the Abarth system after doing a rebuild on my engine. It is a little pricey and NOS but you can still find the original 30 plus year old exhaust from a few suppliers. It is a direct bolt that was manufactured in Europe, made exclusively in the 70's for the 240z's with enhanced modifications. I have a few more pic's in my gallery. It has that low rumble and sounds great.

Thanks Site, I have done a little research on this topic and it appears that there are many comments and opinions addressing this issue. A lot have to do with variations of the temperatures at different points on the head. Hotter in the back vs cooler in the front. Lots of opinions. I just recently completed a full engine- transmission out rebuild at 130K miles. I increased the bore 83.75, installed Silvolite pistons and circle high performance rings, put in a slightly aggressive cam, port-polished the E 88 head, also balanced - ground the crank, had Z therapy redo my SU's and completely redone ( upgraded) the entire a/c system. I also replaced the entire exhaust system with a NOS Abarth free-flow model I found from a supplier who attended Z con in Memphis. Just completed the break-in period so have not run the engine hard, just the normal rpm variations. I am going to dyno the engine to see how much hp was gained ( if any) and will check head temps at various points. This should answer some questions. Lon Also, this shot was pre- rebuild. I have post build shots in my gallery.

Hi all, I noticed recently that there are several variations on the heater hose configuration where they exit the firewall. My 72 ( 06/72 build) is set up differently than others I have seen. See pic. As you can see the upper hose exits and runs the full length of the motor. The short lower hose runs to the engine block/head. Most of the others attach to a 3 way connector at the lower hose entry point. Both the upper and lower feed into it at that point. As you can see, there is no exit fitting on the lower hose on my engine. Can anyone chime in and let me know if this was a factory variation on some engines or a modification made by the PO. My water temp has always been normal even sitting in traffic with the a/c running. I did not realize this until recently when I went to replace the hoses with original braided ones and they did not match up. Should I leave it alone or renconfigure. Thanks M240Z

Yes, when my 72 was ordered the A/C was an " automatic" add on by the dealer. They also changed out the finger guard and added the whole shroud. I don't have the belly splash pan but would like to get one. Does anyone have an extra they want to sell. Also will the 280 z splash pan work? Thanks M240Z