KenFirch
Subscriber
-
Joined
-
Last visited
-
-
I recently converted my Caswell plating setup to a rolling workbench. I'll get more use out of this for the space it takes up in my shop. And I've found a place in town to use for plating instead of trying to do it myself. I've found that all things need to be near perfect for good results with Caswell, and it's a time burner. But it was fun while it lasted.
-
Yeah, the MSA headers I bought have the "Thermal Barrier Ceramic" coating. I guess if I want something really ugly, I could get this: https://www.thezstore.com/product/5287/protective-header-blanket-straight-6-headers.
-
I've got the MSA 6-1 header installed. Pics here:
-
I'm looking to install a heat shield below my SU's, to replace the stock shield. I've been noticing a bit of stumbling after idling for 4-5 minutes at those stupid stop lights. It may be the California 10% ethanol gas lowering the boiling point, or the fact that I haven't yet done the Spring valve adjustment/plug change. I see Z Car Depot has one, not sure how well it works. Anyway, any other options or ideas out there? Thanks, Ken
-
Curious as to what happened on the flatbed. Maybe a cautionary tale?
-
Go all the way and remove the shaft mounts too, by using a throttle cable.
-
My 73 Z had a L26 block and an E88 head when I got it. I rebuilt it 8 some years ago, flat top pistons, but no mods to the head. It runs great, and a blast to drive. It will ping on regular, but not 91 gas.
-
Smart move.
-
Your 71 may have had bolts on the top row, studs elsewhere. Studs will save wear and tear on the aluminum head threads, and probably hold a torque better. Studs are usually only removed if damaged. Good thread here.
-
No oil to deal with. Clean gasket surfaces. I couldn't tell from your pics or video, but you should have 6 thick washers where the stud is between the exhaust and intake manifolds, like these.
-
I'm thinking you'll need to drain coolant and remove carbs and intake to get a clean shot at removing the exhaust manifold and easier reinstall. Especially if you keep the exhaust down pipe in place. Here's what some folks use to plug the air pump tube on the air filter base. I think it's a chair/table leg cap, probably from Home Depot. If you need help wrenching, send me a message.
-
Those white plastic ball sockets should pry off pretty easily with a screwdriver or small open end wrench. Post a pic when you get a chance so we can see what you have.
-
Found a new air galley for you: https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/air-galley-for-datsun-240z Kidding! Unless it's a must have for a concours Z. You might try the simple and cheapest #5 option first. I would try to jam a short 1/2" long piece of tubing (or bolt shank) that tightly fits in both ends of the broken tube, to hold together in alignment without completely relying on the JB Weld. Might be worth a shot before spending a lot of money. It'd be a shame to trash all the work you've done so far getting that stock appearance, looks great. If you need any mechanical help, feel free to contact me. I'm just an old retired guy with lots of free time lately. Yeah, I'm satisfied with the MSA 6 to 1 header, good clearance over speed bumps, unless you go too fast. For performance, there are better ones, but this one suites me fine. Muffler Tech is still there on Florin Road, a bit of a drive from Roseville with an open header, but the cops will understand, right?
-
Yeah, I’m guessing an exhaust leak somewhere on the air galley. Dang! That sucks. From your video it looks like you’re going for the factory look. You may want to start soaking the six fittings above each exhaust port in case you need to remove it for repair. I’m not sure how successful others have been removing the air galley, I’ve found them tough to get the fittings loose. I’m not sure what year your Z is, but I’ve got a 73 manifold with usable galley hanging on my wall just down the road from you in Elk Grove.
