KenFirch

I had to educate myself on Swift springs. Found this helpful. Sounds to me like it would be worth the extra cost. Found this one with good Coilover 101 info too.

I'm thinking of putting coilovers on my Z. Would like to lower it a bit more, and get the alignment to some decent settings. And, to just do it. I'd rather have bolt-in vs welding, but okay with cutting for better access to the camber plates. Street driven car by old guy, so good ride with ability to have fun in the curves occasionally. I haven't seen any posts newer than a few years old, so just wondering what is a good choice nowadays. I see BC, Silver Mine, Megan, etc., and others. Even Techno Toy Tuning, pricey, but they are 30 minutes up the road from me. They even have strut casings available if I choose not to cut mine up. Maybe throw in one of their steering racks while I'm at it. Anyway, just wondering what some recent experiences/opinions are out there. Thanks

Negative, couldn't "tweak" it quite enough to get the right angle.

Steve, the Amazon link describes a "Fog Bulb." Is that what you are using for your headlights? Or is it this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJQP6KMR I was going order new bulbs for my Hella H4 housings, just want to get the right ones. Ken

I recently converted my Caswell plating setup to a rolling workbench. I'll get more use out of this for the space it takes up in my shop. And I've found a place in town to use for plating instead of trying to do it myself. I've found that all things need to be near perfect for good results with Caswell, and it's a time burner. But it was fun while it lasted.

Yeah, the MSA headers I bought have the "Thermal Barrier Ceramic" coating. I guess if I want something really ugly, I could get this: https://www.thezstore.com/product/5287/protective-header-blanket-straight-6-headers.

I've got the MSA 6-1 header installed. Pics here:

I'm looking to install a heat shield below my SU's, to replace the stock shield. I've been noticing a bit of stumbling after idling for 4-5 minutes at those stupid stop lights. It may be the California 10% ethanol gas lowering the boiling point, or the fact that I haven't yet done the Spring valve adjustment/plug change. I see Z Car Depot has one, not sure how well it works. Anyway, any other options or ideas out there? Thanks, Ken

Curious as to what happened on the flatbed. Maybe a cautionary tale?

Go all the way and remove the shaft mounts too, by using a throttle cable.

My 73 Z had a L26 block and an E88 head when I got it. I rebuilt it 8 some years ago, flat top pistons, but no mods to the head. It runs great, and a blast to drive. It will ping on regular, but not 91 gas.

Smart move.

Your 71 may have had bolts on the top row, studs elsewhere. Studs will save wear and tear on the aluminum head threads, and probably hold a torque better. Studs are usually only removed if damaged. Good thread here.

No oil to deal with. Clean gasket surfaces. I couldn't tell from your pics or video, but you should have 6 thick washers where the stud is between the exhaust and intake manifolds, like these.

I'm thinking you'll need to drain coolant and remove carbs and intake to get a clean shot at removing the exhaust manifold and easier reinstall. Especially if you keep the exhaust down pipe in place. Here's what some folks use to plug the air pump tube on the air filter base. I think it's a chair/table leg cap, probably from Home Depot. If you need help wrenching, send me a message.