KenFirch

Decided to rebuild the front and rear suspension on my 73 Z. Decided to splurge and buy the Koni Yellows, and Eibach progressive springs. Going mostly rubber bushings instead of poly since it's mainly for pleasure driving. Going to tackle the front first. I wasn't planning on dropping the subframe, but couldn't remove the lower control arm bolts without hitting the rack. Made a couple metal bars and used the anti-sway bar bracket bolt holes to support a piece of wood, which held the engine up resting on the oil pump. Easier than dragging out my engine lift. Sand blasted the subframe and repainted. I used poly bushings for the rack mounts. To remove the LCA bushings I drilled a couple holes through the rubber, then used a coping saw to saw around the rubber to remove. Then cut inside of the outer bushing steel with a hacksaw as suggested in other threads. To remove and install new bushings I used a 35 mm deep socket on the bottom, and a 1" socket on the top. The 35 mm seems to support the welded in A-arm bushing good to support it without deforming the LCA. When I dropped the Koni's into the strut housing, I had a 6 mm gap instead the required 1-4 mm. Called MSA and they quickly shipped a set of the gland nuts with the relief cut, which got it down to 3 mm. I guess Nissan had a few different suppliers for the strut housings, which made them slightly different. Here's the only way I could figure out how to hold the strut while torquing the gland nuts. Used an aluminum block with just enough pressure to keep it from turning. Here's the assembled pair ready to go. Cleaned up the wheel wells with Simple Green and a brush. Looks pretty good without the dirt and grime. New ball joints and tie rod ends too. Ken

My experience with CA DMV INF 70 requests for info before the late 80's has been futile. Having worked in the IT/database world for 40+ years, since the MS DOS 2.1 and DBase II days and multiple database upgrades, with the DMV having gone through several OS/database/software upgrades over the decades, sometimes a decision is made "we can't migrate that old data, we've got it on microfiche, right? And who's going to want to look at that useless old data anyway!" And even though the form says they will look at microfilm, I'm not so sure those state workers will that for $20. Or what tools they have available to them. Searching microfilm is not fun, and unless they've scanned the microfilm into a searchable database or document, almost impossible. But maybe worth a shot. Just remember it's California you're dealing with.

Awesome, thanks! Needed the 🥾 too. 👍

I'm in the process of installing new Koni Yellows, Eibach progressive springs (23-4041) from MSA, and the rubber suspension kit from Car Source on my 73 Z. Since the car will hopefully be about 1 ½" lower, I'm thinking I should add some bump stops, and don't want the hard poly ones (going for an old folks ride 😉). MSA only sells the hard ones. I've seen other threads of soft bump stop talk, but no specific part numbers used. I called about the FatCat ones, but they mostly offer Miata advice. Heard others use the Koni stops, but which one? Koni strut shaft is .856" (21.74 mm), so I'm thinking the Koni 70.34.95.00 one is the one used, right? It's over 2" long, should I cut it down to about 1.5" ? Anyway, just looking for some advice. Thanks, Ken

A few months ago I installed a Retro PA-01 antenna in my 73, works great. You'll need to connect leads to an always on power, and accessory power to automate. https://www.jegs.com/i/RetroSound/700/PA-01/10002/-1

While replacing the throttle rod boot, I plated the bell crank and rod. Not perfect, but almost there, and still learning. This is the main reason I wanted to get a CopyCad system, so I can take a little extra time to make it look good as I'm working on a small area, without sending it off, and waiting, etc. In this case I can get it all done in an hour or two instead of a week or two. 👍 Well, I should have let it dry at least overnight, and maybe bake it for awhile.

Yeah, saw Patcon’s bench, barrel, and dangler [emoji15], but no heater info.

It's a 5A from Amazon, hopefully lasts awhile. Curious what heaters you all are using for your zinc tanks? I'm thinking of getting this temperature controller along with a coil heater, but don't want to increase the amount of metal in the tank by too much.

I've been lurking on the Caswell thread for months, and finally pulled the trigger and bought the 1.5 gallon system. Built a cabinet: 2 sheets of plywood and sheet of poly from Home Depot, removable casters and power supply from Amazon, and Crockpot from Costco. Didn't want it any longer than 6 feet long, and wanted a fold down top so it's not a wasted space and I can also use it to work on whatever. Rustoleum Royal Blue paint looks surprisingly like the color of my 240Z block. 🤷‍♂️ Just starting off with small pieces and fasteners as I work on various stuff. So far, some success, some so so. Need more practice to get the routine down. Nice to be able to learn from others experiences.

I just stopped by my local Nissan dealer ready to order a couple #16356-25610 tubes. He told me, with a straight face, $53.76, each! I think I'll call ZTherapy. I do like the baked in curve though.

I bought a few feet of the same stuff from Z Car Depot a few weeks ago. The rear one seems to have a little bit of collapsing going on, less on the front. I thought I'd try cutting a piece a little longer to fix, maybe not. Choke seems to retract fine. Is there an "official" length to use? Heard a rumor the hoses are still available from Nissan?

One of my throttle linkage rod ends was broke/worn enough that it occasionally popped off while driving, not much fun in traffic. Saw this thread that talked about salvaging the old plastic ones to create new linkages, but did this instead. Bought some 8mm-M5 ball sockets from Grainger and M5 threaded rod. I've seen them or similar on Amazon also, but wanted to see them before buying. Sockets have a wire lock pin, which definitely lock them onto the ball, but they are also pretty tight without the wire. I wish I had a lathe to remove the unused threads, so I used some shrink tubing to cover them up. Not factory looking, but works great if you're not into the originality thing, or just need time to round up some unobtainium originals.

I'm getting ready to put some Euro bumpers on my 73. Found the unused mounting points on the frame, should be good to go after chasing the threads out. Bought a pair of 70-72 brackets, but not sure which bracket is for the left or right. Looks like the frame holes are offset a bit and may raise or lower bumper a quarter inch or so. I searched, but came up empty. Which is which? Or does it matter? Thanks

Okay, back to this mystery part. I think it’s the fitting that holds the hot end of the 2” pre heater flex hose that connects to the bottom of the air cleaner cover. You know, the one most people remove because it’s such a PITA. [emoji846]. So, it slides around the front part of the exhaust manifold, and the bottom end of the flex hose connects to it. Must not be a factory part though, maybe a quick fix back in the California smog days? Anyway, don’t see any other place on the exhaust manifold or shield to connect hose, and I don’t need it where I live anyway.

Okay, had my grandson Jake over to help put the engine and trans back into the car. I made some longer sling brackets so the lift chain would clear the valve cover and curve inside the smog air galley tube. Went well, took about 90 minutes. Thought I measured right, but no. That extra ~1" distance the 73 bumper sticks out was an issue. The hydraulic jack on lift was over the top of the bumper, which should have come off. Had to push engine back a bit to land on motor mount pad. New early style bumpers in the rafters ready to install, need to get some bumper brackets. Right side motor mount bolts were the biggest challenge, and of course the drive shaft bolts are always fun. Time lapse video below. Hopefully startup in a couple weeks.

A bit off topic, but primed the motor today. Found a 7/16" diameter rod about 18" long, and ground a flat to fit the oil pump. Ran drill CCW for a minute or two and made sure oil was squirting out of all the cam oiler bar holes. A little messy having to remove oil pump afterwards, but should be good to go.

Yeah, that seems to work okay with trans studs into bell housing, but not so much for bell housing to block. Install has gotta be a be a bit easier than my Sunbeam Tiger! Engine has to be pulled with trans to get to trans or clutch. Tight fit! 😓. On Tiger you can go out the top, or drop subframe and drop out the bottom. Choose the scary way.

Thanks pogden, detailed! And everyone else. I should make a time lapse video of install. Waiting for a couple parts, and maybe get my 16 year old grandson over to help. But I'll probably keep him away from the hoist lowering valve as engine is dangling over the car.

Not much original paint left on the plate, but it does look pretty close. Here’s a pic in better light (old fan belt). But I may be a bit color blind too. I think my spray can is about 3 years old now.

I ordered it from California Datsun. Felt stupid at the time spending 30+ bucks for a rattle can, but is does look right! 👌 1 can did the block, brackets and air pump pulley, and still a bit left. https://www.californiadatsun.com/paint-body/datsun-engine-true-blue-green-spray-can-paint.html

A good read on Site's thread, thanks! I've got the same leveler, so I guess I shouldn't worry about it too much. Years ago I pulled the motor sideways over the fender after removing trans. I guess I'll do the the engine with trans method this time. Hopefully no need to remove the front bumper, I'll do some measuring first. Engine is not as great as some I've seen here, but will hopefully run good. Decided to try to keep this 73 on the stock side, even the smog stuff. Well, it does have earlier carbs. I'll probably regret that choice later. 🙄

Getting ready to install my rebuilt motor. Just wondering if I should install engine and trans as unit like the FSM suggests. Or get engine settled in, supported in the rear, then lift trans into place. I've never installed/removed engine/trans as a unit in a Z, but have in other cars. I've got trans jack and load leveler, and a helper, could go either way. Harbor Freight load leveler is scary, hold my breath every time I use that dang thing. Hood removal, reinstallation, and alignment seems the only disadvantage. Anyway, just wondering what others do.

Obviously not from a Z, probably my kid messin' with my head.?

Okay, I know I'm getting old, but I usually still do a decent job of putting parts on the right storage shelf of the different make cars I work on. Found this on the Z shelf, which I took apart 3+ years ago, and I'm not sure if it goes on the Z or not. Looks like an interior part or something. If so, please give me a hint so I can return it to it's original location. If not, never mind.... Thanks! Ken

Thanks!