KenFirch

Your experience with Robella really sucks! I'd be pissed too. Definitely ask for a refund on the dyno and tuneup. If having the original block is important enough to you, I'd ask for a refund, ship it back, and get your old engine back if possible. At least let him you're mad enough to consider it. I'm surprised he's still in business. Sounds like there's a void for another Z engine builder to step into, one that can type emails and take care of his customers that pay his bills. Your car looks awesome! Nice work. Ken

Steve, I ordered 2 of these kits last week. Thanks for making this and other items for us Z owners.However, IMHO, I still think rubber is the wrong material for this particular area, and won't last long. Ken

73 240z, 7/73 build date.

Nope, it's a fairly tight fit around the lobe, no movement. Plus, once it does it's job of starting the rotation of the the latch, the smaller lobe takes over the movement, and larger lobe (with new piece) rotates up towards the outside, out of use. The small lobe once facing downward in the closed position is a pretty tight fit, along with adjusting the dovetail, preventing door movement. The original setup, when in closed position, doesn't change, a metal to metal connection. The original rubber (now metal) just gets the rotation started. That added 1/16" improves the geometry of the whole setup. I'll post a long term update once I get a few hundred door closes.

While trying to adjust my passenger door, which wouldn't shut without slamming, I can across this thread. It seems to indicate the latch is missing a piece of rubber on one of the lobes (the larger one). The suggested fix was to cut a piece of rubber tubing and glue it onto that lobe. The other fix was to carefully remove some material from the catch so the locking lobe (the smaller one) doesn't hit before coming down into locking position. When the rubber is there I assume it worked great since the first lobe starts to rotate sooner to drop the second lobe into postion quicker. I'm thinking, why in the heck did they decide to use rubber in this area! No wonder they are missing! I thought of making one out of plastic (Delrin) but I think it would eventually fail also. So, here's what I came up with. I fabricated a metal "C" shaped clip that I could pinch onto the lobe to replace the missing rubber. It's made of 16 gauge (.062") steel, about 17/32" wide. Easier to tightly install when latch is off the car, in a vice, and tapping the piece around the other side of the lobe. But probably doable while on the car with a good size set of channel locks. After a little adjusting of the latch and catch, a little spray of lithium grease, door closes perfect! Hopefully this will last for awhile. Ken

Thanks for the part number. Now onto adjusting the door latches....

Okay, took the left panel off, masked, removed paint from trim ring and steel wooled. Looks better, but needs more buffing later. I guess it is stainless. Tail light renewal on the to-do list, after I fix a few other items.

Thanks for the info guys! I saw the gap while stripping. I could have sworn it looked like plain ol' steel to me, like the panel itself. I'll take them off (haven't ordered the top plastic rivets yet anyway), take a closer look and post results....

DupliColor wheel paint, Graphite. Dang, I thought I would've seen some leftover chrome, surely on the backside, if that's the way they came. So, how do folks fix these? Replacement chrome piece available? Remove piece and re-chrome? Hunt for decent replacements? Repo's? Sorry, new to the 240Z scene, I'm sure I'll have a bunch a questions for the experts! Thanks, Ken

Hi all, first post. I picked up a 73 240Z a few weeks ago and have a quick question. I repainted the rear panel yesterday, but notice on some panels I've seen, the thin metal piece that is crimped to the panel surrounding the tail light is chrome and some, painted on others. While stripping mine it looked like bare mild steel with no evidence of plating, so it's painted. What's the story on the chrome style trim panels? Thanks, Ken