wheee!

Yes, I will be getting a 15/16 280ZX master, probably from Arizona Z Car with the brake order. I am leaving the old 7/8 cylinder on there now for safety sake. No need to let dirt and dust in.

Very nice. I will have to get my car up on a lift for some pics when I'm done too!

Quanto dineros?

I'm sure. There will be times when everything comes to a stop as you search for a clamp or a screw. I really need to order a complete bolt kit. So many are just wrong or beyond salvage.

Enter it? I signed a long term lease years ago! I have all of the above except the zinc plating system. Plus I have a powder coater. Some of my small parts I have already prepped, others I will do as I go. At least it feels like progress! The brake distribution block and proportioning block are already restored and mounted. They were a day apiece...

I'm thinking more like satin black...

Cleaning up the booster...

Very true. I had thought about this as well. Might just add it to the wilwood order anyways.

I have emailed them about availability ...

Hi guys, I am trying to source a new or gently used 280ZX 15/16 master cylinder for my car. I am wanting to upgrade the stock system on my 280Z as I will be using the Wilwood 4 wheel disc system from Arizona Z Car. Anyone have a spare available?? Thanks!

I have a reel of string that I am using for measuring the lines. My mistake was to try and measure the new piece while it was still coiled. Some slippage occurred obviously. I still have lots of line and there won't be any waste.

I am going to use the four bolt race pack from Arizona Z Cars. Wilwoods all around and rear discs. I spoke with Reg Sumaru here in Edmonton with this same setup and he has a 260 with a built motor. 3.5 stroker. He is a master mechanic. He is running the same brakes, 280ZX master cylinder and the 260 booster. No proportioning valve and he swears it is race stable. I may order one as insurance, but I am going to use the 280ZX master and the 280Z booster. Should be enough.

6 hours messing around in the garage today. Just going to bolt this back in I think. So much easier! ...jk! Put in the back brake lines first. I then made up the main line from the front... 6" too short! That's why you buy 50' of this stuff! I will have some spare line leftover but it is cheaper to order more to start with than to reorder!

That is indeed the correct tool. Grannyknot shipped me his to play with.

BTW, forum brethren. The Eastwood flaring tool is the schizel. Can't believe how easy it is to make perfect flares... Pro tip: the single rubber insulators are NOT cut and just slide onto the line prior to the nut and before flaring. Don't ask me how I know....

, I searched the forum for the details, thinking it was someone else that built it for some reason. When I found it in your thread, I was like, duuuhhh..... too funny. No big deal. Shipping would cost as much as building one.

I am going to make the same one Grannyknot made for his build. Super simple. He ended up using hand bends for most of it though. Just the bottom frame rail section is the most obvious.

My damn tube, I'll polish it if I want to !

Cunifer tubing shines up bright with a little steel wool. Not silver but but very bright in comparison to the stock finish.

It's more like my period.... monthly doses of both pain (financial) and relief (parts!)

Congrats!!!!!

In case anyone is wondering, the 50' x 12"" rolls of butyl weigh 16 lbs each.

Packages! Did I say I liked deliveries? Granny's flaring tool back right, copper nickel lines in front right, 3 x 50' rolls of butyl sound mat in the white boxes and 1 package of V-Comp sound control in the tall box!

Brake lines and sound deadening next. Supplies arrived this week!

Thanks! It was indeed a long process. Before I flip the car onto its shoes, I will probably put a good coat of hard wax on the clearcoat. Buff it up and that will be it. I don't expect to see a lot of the bottom of the car in the future. It was my practice paint area.