wheee!

I'm not too worried about the spindles in the end... I'm going to go with the Techno Toy rear support arms so I will not have to deal with spindles again in the future... yay! EDIT: I have no idea why, but quoting isn't working for me! I press quote, see it in the response I am typing, hit post and it disappears....

I pounded the first one out too, but it mushroomed and took far too much effort than I wanted to repeat with the second one. The pre-work is mostly what I expected..... I didn't want anything to be rushed or half-done. I am looking forward to getting the car on the rotisserie though. That has been delayed mostly because I have been so sick lately. Darn colds... The undercoating will indeed be a chore. I have done some here and there and it does come off, just takes time. Again, I am a patient man.... mostly But yes, the plan is bare metal then POR15 and then a chassis coat. For the underside and the interior. Possibly the engine bay too, but it will be primed over the engine bay area so I can spray body colour in there too. And lots of seam sealer and cavity spray as I've seen in your thread!

Rebuilt the Spindle Puller with 3/4" rod. Should be good enough now. Also ordered a 20mm thrust washer to accommodate the wider threaded rod. In the lathe... just over 14" long for good measure threaded end M12 x 1.25 M12 bolt inserted for example

Gotch. Tabco shows the same part a bit cheaper... https://tabcoparts.com/16730.html

Awesome!

When you (EuroDat) shipped my rubber brake line bushings, I wondered where the inspection light cover came from! Now I know, it was another great piece of artwork from you Chas! Thanks for the lens cover bonus! Now I have to look up your taillight project....

3/4" would be more than enough I think. I will try the welding first as I only need it for the one spindle pin that's left. TTT arms are going back in so no more spindle pin.

Are you going Futofab?

Not quite. I felt it give as the threaded end split.

Quick test tonight and I discovered the 5/8" threaded rod is too thin to work. I will go up a gauge in rod and try again! ... Or weld the bottom of the threaded rod for strength, grind it smooth. Might try that first.

Yup. Bumpers were the first thing to go in the scrap bin...

eBay to the rescue! $3.09 cdn later...

Did the Chassis Black come off WITH the primer or just the Chassis BlacK? Sounds like an issue with time between coats (tack) or possibly contaminated surface (on the primer).

Just have to get a thrust bearing....

Had access to the machine shop today so I grabbed some scrap and built a spindle pin puller. Rudimentary but hopefully effective. 5/8" threaded rod drilled and tapped M12 x 1.25 in one end, inserted into 1" square tube with 3/4" washers welded on for end caps.

As I understand it, there is rarely an issue with too much front braking versus too much rear braking. The proportioning valve makes more sense on the rear line to me too...

Got bored at lunch and ordered a Pulse Width Dimmer module and some Green LED BA9 bulbs for the instrument cluster.... $5 ebay

So close, but gotta work....

Nice! My fuel pump looked almost that bad when I pulled it. I cleaned it up and sandblasted the outside. Looks pretty good now. I don't have pics up yet. You sure went to a lot of trouble installing and removing things for mock up! I am hoping to avoid too much of that as I go,

Thanks for all the info Steve!

I spent a little time on the fuel pump too. I got it running this spring with a few whacks on the side but I wasn't sure how good of a shape it was in. Hooked it up on my workbench to the power supply and pumped a bucket of CLR through it. Ran like a top! Nice smooth whirrr and strong stream pressure. Didn't disassemble it but inserted the end of the pressurized air line blower into the intake end and blew all the remaining fluids out. A lot came out... I then blew air in reverse of the flow and NOTHING! Check valve works great! This is great news as I think the pump is solid! I have pics on my other camera. I will post them up later.

Not like I had a lot of choice really. No replacements to be found around here....

Well, approx 90 ohms in the empty position and 15 ohms full. Smooth transition of resistance through the range of the sending unit. Success!

Post pics! Congrats!

Would love to see pics of leather doorskins from Interior Innovations...