wheee!

Love it... added to my build list!

I would really like to have one of Dave's DZ-Push Button Start modules but they seem to be out of circulation. Dave has indicated he does not have any left and hasn't made them for three years. Does anyone have one of these they are not using and are willing to part with? Shoot me a PM! Thanks! Mark

Would be interested to know if the gaskets fit my 76 horns....

. I have the classic dapper lights already. The stainless steel rings are nice but the best part is the smooth acrylic lens. No angles. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

updates?

Looks good, but I think I am going to get a set of these.... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52298-reproducing-headlight-covers-input-needed-from-the-community/

Another good night.... I removed the steering column support/pedal box as well as the Fuel Injection harness. Also removed the flasher and hazard units that are most likely dead and will need replacing. It appears that the clutch cylinder was leaking into the firewall as the matting was destroyed and moist along with significant rust against the firewall and pedal box in that area. The clutch reservoir was also empty.... I take a few breaks from each task to do a little sandblasting too. I cleaned up the door and hatch hinges and scraped a few pounds of undercoating off the inside of the headlight buckets too... I am trying to put most things away clean and labeled rather than dirty and rusty. Should make it easier down the line.

Thanks for the heads up guys! I will test fit it when I get the diff out later this month.

Good friend Taka Yuki passed along a brand new, unused RT front diff mount yesterday! His 260 has some exotic custom mount instead. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/taakahirano/media/260z%20restoration/DSC_0023_zpsf5a4wtva.jpg.html#/user/taakahirano/media/260z%20restoration/DSC_0023_zpsf5a4wtva.jpg.html?&_suid=1443796932278048328735376149356 I'll get this metal prepped and primed and stick it on the shelf for the reassembly! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Picked one of these up this morning. This will replace the fusible links. It will be relocated to the firewall as well. Looks like it should do the job just fine. I'll make sure to get the appropriate size ANL fuses too. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Picked one of these up this morning. Looks like it should do the job just fine. I'll make sure to get the appropriate size ANL fuses too. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Well, if the fusible links are 4x smaller gauge than the supported circuit, it's going to protect it regardless...

Thanks Matt!

When I get to doing mine, I will try and accomodate if it has not been done already. I plan on splitting the harness for just this purpose. Plus I am going to 11mm barbless injectors so I need to redo the wiring regardless.

I have had a hard time finding a fuse block that will work with the cartridges. I agree they are more similar to the fusible links. As I am doing the whole car anyways, one of my plans was to clean up the engine bay. Pallnet fuel rail, hidden injector wires, rerouted fuel lines, carbon canister, brake booster and vacuum lines etc. Adding the Maxi Fuses as a way to eliminate the fusible link connection is a real easy step and I will move them to the firewall along with the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter.

Thanks for the tips! I am doing all of the above already, however, the advice to tape the screws etc in their Ziplocks bags to the parts is an interesting idea. I have a rubbermaid container holding all of the Ziplocks at the moment. All components are tagged as they come out as well. Even the obvious ones. I have alot of spare parts too so I keep them marked as original or spare. I have also tagged the wiring harness at critical junctions for ease of reinstallation.I have been documenting a lot of the disassembly with the digital camera for reference as well. I will post a few pics this weekend...

I don't disagree in theory, however, I am of the opinion that fusible links inherently invite more risk of failure than a Maxi Fuse. Fusible links are merely wire of a gauge 4x smaller than the rated current of the device it is protecting. In case of an overcurrent, the wire melts withing the heavy duty sheilding and protects the circuit. A Maxi Fuse does the same thing, only in a fuse style and in a design for high current draw circuits. If Maxi's had been available at the time, Datsun would probably have used them instead. At that time, fusible links were the traditional method of securing high amperage circuits for which fuses were not rated. IMHO Maxi Fuses are an elegant solution to an older technology. Maxi's provide a quick visual reference to the condition of the circuit as well. Fusible links are visually harder to identify as serviceable...

As I understand it, the function is pretty much the same in a fusible link as it is in a Maxi Fuse. Current draw above the rated size of the link or the fuse causes the wire or fuse to melt and opens the circuit. Why would it act any different? This article explains it fairly well... http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb1.pdf

A really productive night! Pulled the engine bay harness and removed the steering column and dash tonight! That is no easy job.... I am glad this is a full resto project otherwise I can see why people "half-do" a lot of these jobs. Massive amounts of equipment and wiring to move etc. A lot of PO's hobbled bits and pieces to remove and label as well.... Found some of the ventilation tubing tied up with string etc. Wires cut and spliced to add an aftermarket flasher unit etc. Lots to sort out! Overall I am happy with the progress made so far. Looking forward to having the car completely stripped!!

Years from the finish line but the wife got her vanity plate already... Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Definitely going this route....

I am super fine sandblasting most everything that will be plated, then wire wheeling, then muriatic acid dipping (repeating as necessary!). Hope to avoid the pitfalls you have pointed out. Thanks for all the awesome tips Granny!

New compressor went in; makes a huge difference. Otherwise I am having a 'fun' time removing the wiring harness from the engine bay, trying to loosen 40 year old fittings on the brake and clutch lines, removing tons of undercoating and generally bashing away at the disassembly. At times it is fun and exciting, others more frustratingly slow and tedious. Hats off to all who have gone before as I am sure I am going to make mistakes along the way! Trying to take my time, labelling and tagging everything as I go. I have gone through three boxes of Ziplock baggies already..... Hoping to have the rotisserie here soon, even though I am not ready for it.... snow is coming soon to our parts so I want it in the garage at least!

I made a single post in HazMatts thread and it posted three times.... didn't refresh or try to multiple post either. Forum glitch.

Every single nut bolt and component is coming off my car so the work is there regardless. A review of your finished would be great! A friend of mine is going T3 with his 280 as well, but his is a performance build. Mine is more of a resto-mod. Coilovers now gives me more options later after the car is restored. I have two motors and the first is a stock build, the second will be more performance oriented. Going coilovers now will be a benefit later. The JPN Garage solution looks elegant and more than enough for me. Hazmatt did a great job with his... Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....