wheee!

Very nice! Quality work right there. Do you have the vertical deflector shield for the 280Z version as well?

They should move fairly easily. How much grease did you pack in there? The FSM is very specific about how much to use and where. My thread has the complete half shaft disassembly and rebuild guide. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61539-s30-half-shaft-disassembly-and-rebuild/

Spent the entire night working on the hatch. I welded up all the holes from the screwed in louvres and welded the emblem holes up as the spoiler will be going over them. I also welded up the hatch release button hole and welded in the pull ring and mounting points for the hatch release solenoid. All ready for final prep! The solenoid bolts to the inner hatch where I welded in a support plate. The solenoid fits perfect in here and I can adjust the tension for the proper release pop. The cable goes inside the panel and through a washer that I welded (carefully) just inside and to the left of the release arm that needs to be pulled straight down in order to pop the hatch. If you can imagine a washer with the top quarter bent over and welded just below the right hand bolt of the catch in the picture. That was some trick welding (about 6 tries). The hatch emblems and louvre holes had to go. I didn't want them to be rust holes later and the spoiler would cover half of them anyways... The latch opener was the biggest hole and I took a very closely sized washer, welded the centre shut, then tack welded it into the hole at four points to reduce the amount of heat transfer to the hatch. I will fill all the pinholes with fibreglas before final bodywork.

Thanks Chas! I am looking forward to getting the bodywork done this fall and having the car painted by spring. I am really trying to get it on the road next summer. Fingers crossed.

I haven't decided yet. I have the original ECU location behind the panel on the drivers side footwell, but I also want easy access for the USB port for programming. I actually have a plan to run a USB extension into the dash for the Haltech programming. I also have the CANBUS kit that needs to be installed as well for the wideband O2 sensor.

The 280Z has a lot more options for wiring as there is the original FI hole on the drivers side plus the standard wiring harness hole on the passenger side.

The 76 was the last one with full size spare well.

The dent was so easy to dolly out too. Took all of 15 minutes. The rest of the panel had been skim coated too. Thicker in some places like near the headlight bucket.

Turned out the nice yellow fender was actually a repop! Made in Taiwan. Apparently a little sculpting was needed too. Still a great rust free fender!

My console has a lid. It is in good shape but I haven’t looked at it much since I took the car part years ago. It is a stock lid with hinges molded into top and bottom so, not aftermarket I’m thinking.

My plan is to coat the underside with ospho and then clean it off and 2K prime it.

Found some time to strip the cowl down. Couple layers of paint but otherwise beautiful condition. A little surface rust to deal with on the bottom side.

Oh, now that is nice! Looking forward to seeing this complete!

My cable setup will still close the butterfly when I pull up on the pedal... Edit: NVM, I missed the cable to bar linkage issue.

Thanks! I built mine further away from the block for two reasons: I wanted to ensure the COPS were far away from the heat of the block, and secondly, I wanted to 'balance' the look of the engine bay so the intake wasn't out of place. The COP manifold also hides a lot of the unsightly hoses and wiring on the passenger side of the engine.

I agree. My COP rail is the third version and the orientation of the plugs for the connectors was a consideration. In the end, I still feel there is quite a bit of room though.

Yup. Pretty common part and they’re all the same. Zed is right. It will still work, just not win any beauty contests.

Great garage art....

Looks sharp!

I'm in.... after 65 degrees Celsius in Afghanistan, I can handle anything.... except constant moisture. ?

Send heat this way... we have had three days no rain since May....

Yes. Smart coil design. Two wire systems need a separate igniter.