wheee!
Free Member
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by wheee!
-
-
-
I also added most of the grease for the shaft in the top of the grooves. Minimal in the ball track until the last 30g at the top of each ball run. The grease will get to all the necessary places as the shafts turn and move. As I said earlier, the balls and spacers had a coating of grease on them first to get them to adhere to the shaft.
-
Grease is the last thing you add before the shaft is assembled. It will bind up your shaft as it slides back in and push the balls and spacers out. Go slow, as the first half of the assembly will slide in easily, then you will need to keep even pressure on the spacers etc. Add the remaining grease as per the thread I quoted above and you can close up the assembly with the top plate and snap ring. I also placed the open shaft in a vice, vertically so I could lower the ball/spacer shaft assembly down vertically as well. This made it easy to use two hands on the shaft and control the balls and spacers. Yeah, I know.... siteunseen is gonna have a field day with that last statement.
-
If you read in the FSM, you DO NOT put grease in the shaft receiving end first!
-
Once I had the inside of the shafts cleaned, I put a small amount of grease on the balls and spacers so they would stick to the shaft, and they slid easily back into the clean tube. I held the top pressure ring against them as I completely pushed them in and I had no problems.
-
Try this... S30 Half-shaft Disassembly and Rebuild https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=83168&share_tid=61539&share_pid=567460&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eclassiczcars%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F61539-S30-Half-shaft-Disassembly-and-Rebuild%2Fpage__view__findpost__p__567460&share_type=t
-
I believe he cut off the lower section of tube first, then removed the tube material under the perch until it was free of the tube.
-
Nice job on getting them off the tubes! Looks good.
-
All that and no pics? C'mon Blue!..... I gotta see this
-
Any updates Captain?
-
The brakes need to be “pumped” to actuate the piston in this device. The piston then blocks the defective line and shuttles all fluid to the working brakes. Quite ingenious really. ... as long as you remember to pump the brakes when they fail!
-
Best kind of mistake.... easy to fix!
-
Mine is the 2010 40th anniversary cover from the dealer.
-
I have a tight fit indoor cover on my 370 (when it’s clean) and it is wonderful. Washed in the machine no problem.
-
They are pretty thick steel. Pics? You could make them out of steel albeit without the rounded/pressed look. It’s been done.
-
-
-
The great news is that the driveline is done. Engine and transmission bolted in, rear end bolted in and driveshaft installed. So much relief and satisfaction today. Now on to all the fun and not so fun stuff. I will button up some of the plumbing for the AC and the heater lines, route some lines for the speedo cable etc. I will leave the wiring of the motor for a while. Once I’m done playing with the engine bay I will get going hardcore on the final body work and metal repairs. Time to get serious!
-
-
-
-
Sorted out my Clutch Slave Cylinder. zKars had provided me one with the Stroker, but I had not noticed it was designed for the clutch fork with the hole through it! My 280 fork is solid... So after careful perusing of the forum and referencing the info from Eurodat, I was able to mount the new CSS with the push rod out of my old rusted CSS. It’s all in the small details... Adjustable pushrod (assembled backwards to show needed length) Adjustable and old solid pushrod: Properly assembled and adjusted for 110mm static length and 126mm stroke length from bell housing. Thanks to zKars for the wealth of info and Eurodat for the reference.
-
-
