wheee!

That's what I was thinking! But the boots both came apart full of the cruddy yellow goop that was also inside the shafts themselves. There is no o-ring or seal between the boot and the shaft, just the snap ring and collar. There is a small amount of "residual" grease in the boot from sliding it onto the shaft and being handled with greasy gloves, but nothing excessive. I will seal up the boots with the cv bands when they arrive and be done.

Well, that’s one restored! I added the 10g of grease to each of the ball tracks and another 30g in the top section beneath the snap ring. The manual has no info on adding grease to the boot itself so I assume that is left dry? Catches the oversling later?

All of them did.

I’m glad this post has enlightened more than just myself. Thanks to Jim for suggesting I report my findings.

Sold!

Ughhhh. A ton....

Megasquirt or Haltech can fix that..

And before anyone starts saying “but those are 280 shafts....!” I pulled apart a 240 shaft I had laying around (yea it’s a 240 cuz the stub shaft is attached and the spline count is for a 240...) and they are the same as the 280 ones. The 240 shaft with u joint still attached on top.

Time for a mythbusters episode! The half shafts are absolutely identical. No one side longer or shorter than the other. @zKars

I think your results will be indiscernible. Notched or unnotched. You should be good to go without any power loss or significant gains.

The firewall flange is welded together. And you are correct. The mounting tabs would indeed be moved as you suggest.

I regret that I have but one like to give....

Unfortunately I did not take any pics of the column not aligning with the pedal box when I installed it. It slid into the collar on the firewall and ended up being low and to the right from the drivers seat perspective. I (gently) persuaded it to line up with the pedal box mounting bolts and bolted it in. I mentioned it in the thread for due diligence in case someone else ran into the same issue. After speaking multiple times with Edan, it was discovered that the offset position was required to clear the headers from the V8 swapped cars (Edan has one). Somehow the jig was slightly off (at least on the one I received) and the column didn't align perfectly. After I pulled it into the proper position, the slight angle change at the firewall was now correct for the parts to align. What I intend to do is release the bolts from the pedal box and photograph the relaxed position of the column (it may or may not go back down and to the right) and see if it still needs correcting. Then I will replace the firewall mount and collar with the seperate pieces supplied by Edan and bolt the assembly back together in a relaxed position. Then I will tack weld the collar in place so that a jig can be made to replicate the offset & correctly angled collar to ensure a direct bolt in fit for both L series engines and V8's, no pulling of the column required.

sale pending.....

Doing this mod while the car is disassembled is a no-brainer for me. I know my wife will appreciate the creature comfort of power steering (and so will I)! As for @silverminemotors, Edan has been awesome in communicating with me about the design. He needs to ensure the final product works with his V8 swap customers, but is very motivated to improve the product for the benefit of all S30 chassis owners. For my part, I am happy to assist in the quality control of the final product.

None of those setups have a stock fender... they will have to have been rolled or they will rub. Also, you will need to have some camber involved to clear the wells. The front air dams on all of those cars have also been modified (not stock) as the front wheels would rub the nacelles in corners.

Update: silvermine is shipping out a set of the firewall and collars for me to fabricate a correctly positioned shaft support. He wants to make sure it is correctly positioned in a car before setting the jig up to a different angle. I will bolt up the shaft to the pedal box with the collar loose, poking through the firewall plate that will be bolted to the chassis, then tack weld the collar on at the correct angle while everything is correctly aligned. Doing this in an actual car will ensure the fit and angles are correct. I will then ship the part back to silvermine to use as the template for the production line.

Yup, been burning up the data with pics of my install etc. Kent is on track with what I did, he is just going to have to modify the setup he has a now a little to achieve the same type of drainage.

Driveshaft comparison pic...

Now to find my two pin tools... And order some U joints!

I have a Fiberglas fender that came with the car. I would not recommend them... I bought the steel panel to replace it.

I can’t remember if you braced the urethane air dam. Most people find they flex and droop at speed.

Some more cleanup and progress...

This all looks vaguely familiar...!