wheee!

First time in the sunshine! IMG_4047.MP4

All I use is pin D for crank + That connects to the Haltech crank + wire. Then I use a sensor ground from the Haltech loom to the Haltech Crank ground. All done.

Your megasquirt may have igniters internally. I had heard that somewhere. Haltech doesn’t include them in the ECU because they are difficult to replace if they burn out, versus popping a new COP on the plug.

If you were running Haltech I could answer your questions with some confidence. I know that in the end, I only needed one pin in e CAS from onesix in order to have full sequential spark and injection timing. The ground signal was sensor ground from the Haltech. The COPs you are describing are not self ignited, and need an ignitor in either the megasquirt or a standalone unit (as I understand), that’s why I choose the Honda Acura COPs with self igniters and ground reference firing signal. Full power all the time and a ground signal to fire.

I bought the set from the Z store.

Well the rest of the install went seamless. No issues with the back or front glass going in. Very happy overall! I had a friend help push on the glass as it went in and everything went smooth. The front top corners are a bit tricky due to the sharp angle, but still went well.

Started the windshield and hatch glass install today. Will finish it up tomorrow hopefully!

Looks spectacular!

Way better than my 7 years... !!!

My friend had a car built by a repair shop here in Alberta and paid about $150,000 USD after labour for the same job as you had done. About $20,000 of that was for a built motor though, the rest mostly labour costs. My build contains no labour costs as I did it myself. It would be another $100,000 minimum for the work to have been done here. It seems it would be cheaper to ship cars to Dubai and have them restored then shipped back!

Without judging in any way,.... what is your total cost of restoration (equivalent US dollars) to get the car from arrival in Dubai to where it will be finished? You are moving so fast!! I'm about $35,000 USD deep into mine and seven years.... Curious to know if the resto costs are comparable there to here...

Amazing progress!

Wow. Makes my car look like one of those drawings your kid brings home from preschool.... “ooh I love it hunny!” This is beautiful detailed work!

Thanks. The thread has been my therapy and my school. Everything I have done has been a “first” for me. Thankfully this forum had been guide.

My connector pieces were built to match what was already there. Not perfect I’m sure, it is very close. The jack plates are my own design as far as I know. I don’t remember seeing them done before. But I’m sure someone else had the same idea. The TC bucket was removed by drilling out the spot welds and careful grinding. I just welded back through the spot welds to put it back on. And yes, my thread would benefit from “chapter markers” ....

Should pop out pretty easy if I remember mine.

Do you have a pic of the whole car? Curious to see another local 75/76...

Bonus metal!

This is epic car modding...!

Great work on the driver side trans hump! That will be so much easier to fit modern seats.

This is why it’s simpler to just buy the correct flasher unit that can work with both led and incandescent bulbs. Worth the extra $$

Here we have a shot of the rear video camera turning on when I shift into reverse! Cool! IMG_3649.MOV

Some shots of the Led lights, flashers working (but with rear incandescent bulbs). IMG_3644.MOV IMG_3643.MOV IMG_3646.MOV

They are good quality leds, and the problem was I still had one set of incandescent bulbs in when I tested before. The LED compatible flashers were faulty. I ordered new ones and this should solve the problem. I put the incandescent bulbs back in and everything works so obviously the flashers are not LED compatible, even though they advertised they were.. grrrrr. Live and learn.

Everything was deleted and I run a map sensor in the Haltech ecu. Complete system upgrade.