wheee!

Nice work as usual!

[emoji38]

It’s numbers matching....

Looks pretty good with a little hammer and dolly work but it is still oil canned. The PO had done a small patch weld in the corner that probably started the tension issues in the metal.

Congrats on doing it right. Take your time. Triple your budget, and read all the threads on restorations on this forum. Some of the best Datsun minds come here daily and I have learned EVERYTHING from these people.

Mostly cleaned off but thankfully most of the damage is the bottom left corner. Looks like I will be ordering that shrinking wheel soon...

And now back to our regular programming.. The rear hatch pictures show how the PO had applied massive dumps of bondo to fill the oil canning. Glad to know it wasn’t my stripping wheel. Still going to be a challenge to flatten this out properly. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Zedd Findings in Ontario. Great stuff.

Look like Rota knockoffs of TE37’s

As you have already heard, work on small sections at a time, don’t take out both floor pans at once etc etc.

A 280 has a stronger trans tunnel brace built in. A 240 might need bracing. I would also recommend you remove the running gear from the car while it’s on the rotisserie too... that’s a lot of weight.

You must be new here....

Nope. I am eliminating the door locks too. Too easy for people to break into the old style locks. Extra layer of security and no water access. I never liked the notched look on the rear spoiler anyway. To each their own.

Nice! I'm glad to see the CLR method making the rounds. It's very hard to find replacement sending units on the 280's.

SO hopefully with the change of seasons I am going to be able to move into more of the restoration phase of SASSZ. Last night I pulled the hatch glass and hardware and started prepping the hatch for stripping. I used the new Eastwood green "brush" paint remover on the grinder and was dismayed to see the amount of paint, primer and bondo on the hatch. After some aggressive stripping I was even more dismayed to see the left bottom quarter of the hatch completely oil-canned.... Not thrilled to have to deal with that but c'est la vie! While the hatch was disassembled, I looked at the latching mechanism a bit. I am planning on running the rear spoiler on the hatch, and it interferes with the push button trunk release. @zKars had previously had this on his 73 with a remote trunk release and had welded over the hatch release and lock button. I plan to do the same and have been looking into an alternative way to remotely release the hatch. It involves inverting the latching system and using parts from other vehicles, but basically I will have a striker latch on the hatch itself, and a latching mech on the bottom with a remote solenoid and cable release through to the drivers side of the cabin . I will post more on that as parts arrive and I get closer to testing it. Might work....might not!

Nice work Jeff! Thanks for showing the warts along with the beauty marks... it helps to know you’re human too! Can’t wait to see this rolling down the wrong side of the road!

Here's the link: TC support install

I mounted a wheel for a test fit and it looks good. However, the car is still on jackstands for a while. @zKars had them on his 73 before me, so may be he can chime in.

Check my thread for these exact same repairs. I did this a year ago in my build.

Yup. What was it, like 12 years ago that Cdn dollar was actually worth more than the greenback? Didn’t own the 370 or the 280 then.... would have made parts a lot cheaper.

$130 US per seat is $400 Cdn... I have the seat covers already, but the foam plus shipping, duty, and taxes will be close to $500 Cdn..... eBay aftermarket race seats come in around $450 cdn.

Well, a sad day today as I discovered the 370Z seats I had lined up for the 280 are not going to fit. They will, however, fit a 240Z but not a 280 with the catalytic convertor hump beside the driver. At least 3” too narrow in the seat rail area to do this without bashing or cutting out the hump. And as many of you remember, the bottom of the car is painted and clearcoated.... [emoji20] Back to plan A, restoring the stock seats. Now to find new seat foams, for less than the cost of aftermarket race seats!

They have them in 16x7 +0 as well. Good prices.

What about the 16x8 VTO classic 8’s? They are +3 offset and clear with coilovers... not sure about stock suspension.